No cold start
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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No cold start
I just got back from Idaho where the nights were in the 20's. The truck ('06 6.0) won't start cold at all, just turn over and caugh. A code was thrown (don't know what it is yet) and think it may be glow plug issues. I would have to wait until the afternoon with the sun beating on it and even put a heater under it to finally get it started with much sputtering and soot for a minute. After all the cylinders get going it seems to run normal.
Any ideas???
Any ideas???
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
20's shouldn't be a problem even without the block heater plugged in. Are they selling winter blend fuel up there yet? As billbot said codes are the place to start, glowplug issue seems likely. Fresh fuel filters and draining HFCM may help. If you travel up there often 5w-40 oil would be a good idea also. Good luck!
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Junior User
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Thanks, I should find out today what code was thrown. No block heater on CA model, could add one I think. Was fine till I filled in Belleview, ID. but have run a couple of tanks through since. Was still rough starting here yesterday when it was 90* out. Will drain HFCM.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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Yes, just the first start of the day, even had to put a little heater under the motor for a while to get it started today. Once warmed up it fires right up like normal and seems to run norm also. Would an FICM problem have these symptoms?
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Bakersfield
I would suggest checking battery voltages and have maybe have them load tested. If it does end up being the FICM there are a lot of options for fixing it. You can send it in and have it repaired, buy a new or refurb, or fix it yourself if you know how to solder. Check the tech folder for more info on testing and repairing your FICM. From the guides on this site I was able to repair mine. Oh yeah and get those codes read too because this is all just speculation....
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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I have had a couple do the turn over & cough when cold and it turn out to be the egr valve clogged up. Its really easy to check if you wanted to do it. If u do it, check the orings on it as well as though will cause issues too.
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Junior User
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Looks like it is the FICM after all. The 0611 code popped up along with each "cylinder injector circuit low" code. Can this be repaired by a novice soldierer? (Copper plumbing exception) or send it off to be repaired? Thanks for the inputs.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Hard to guess about someone else's skill level but it's not too hard to do. There is some potting compound holding the components to the circuit board that must be removed with a heat gun before the soldering starts. The problem with DIY repair is most shops won't work on it if you tried and failed. There are detailed instructions in the Tech folder with pictures showing the commonly overheated connections, if you could print those and take them and the FICM to a local electronics repair shop might be a quick way to get your truck back. There are several threads about who to use if you want to send it off for repairs.
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Junior User
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OK, I need a little clarification please. When key turned on (buzzing), I get 48 volts but when I crank the motor over it's around 22 volts. The tech folder FICM repair shows only testing with key on (buzzing) with no test turning over the motor. Others articles say to test both ways. I just want to confirm a bad FICM with the cranking test.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Yep. Should be 48v key on-crank-and running. I've heard it may sag a little 45.5 or 46 and still be ok. I also agree with the post above about checking the batteries and charging system. Low voltage TO the FICM is a common reason for them to fail. The type (design) of the power supply in the FICM does it's best to output 48v no matter what the input voltage is so if input is low it can overheat enough to melt the solder