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Just read some threads in the "Winter Cold Start Sticky" that referred to a balance test for the injectors.
Can the AE do this test?
If not, can other scanners do it?
I know what your getting at but maybe you should elaborate from now on so it doesn't seem like you are snubbing him.
Since the OP didn't list any symptoms it is hard to see what he is trying to accomplish. If you are running a grey CPS you might try switching to an original black one.
I think Cody's dry sense of humor is lost on some people, but I believe what he was trying to say is that the OP can run the test, just don't assume that poor readings on #3 and #8 necesarily mean you have a bad injector.
I think Cody's dry sense of humor is lost on some people, but I believe what he was trying to say is that the OP can run the test, just don't assume that poor readings on #3 and #8 necesarily mean you have a bad injector.
From what we've recently seen, that might just as easily (or even more likely) point to Ford's "new and improved" grey CPS.
I think Cody's dry sense of humor is lost on some people, but I believe what he was trying to say is that the OP can run the test, just don't assume that poor readings on #3 and #8 necesarily mean you have a bad injector.
lmao.....Bob I believe you hit the nail square on the head
but maybe I am being a little on the pessimistic side.
Here's my explanation:
All the years I've spent as a professional technician have made me a good bit apprehensive to the idea of diagnostic tools in the hands of every Tom, Dick, and Harry. Why is this? Because I spent a good bit of time explaining to a lot of customers that it's usually a good idea to save any repair work for somebody that knows what they're doing. Once the customer finally broke down, gave up, and finally brought the car in, it came to their attention that the only repair needed was to fix a terminal in a wire connector (that took 5-10 minutes to find so the diagnostic charge was minimal) and that was it....AFTER they had their handy little scan tool that gave a code and they made twenty trips to the parts house getting advice from people on both sides of the counter about what should be replaced next. I don't get any joy out of knowing people would rather spend $70-$400 on a scanner because the check engine light came on and then spend HUNDREDS of dollars in parts to "try" and see if they can fix the problem themselves. It happens far more than anyone really knows.....all because they didn't want to spend a lot of money at a dealership. Usually, the cost would come out far less by handing the keys over to someone competent.....and USUALLY, a decent joint WILL NOT CHARGE for parts that don't fix the issue.
Am I trying to be smug and say I'm the greatest? NO. I am far from being the best technician out there but I am damn good at what I do and have seen WAY too much crap information from peoples' friends and yes, even the internet (say it ain't so), that when I hear about someone with a miss and white smoke in their 7.3L and the only information that the poor guy garners revolves around "UVCH" and "Injectors". "Do a buzz test and contribution test."; it really begins to get to me. Guess what.....If you have a miss accompanied by fuel smoke, YOU CANNOT HAVE AN OPEN INJECTOR CIRCUIT!! What did we learn? Oh yeah, cylinder #8 has a contribution code so that injector HAS TO BE BAD.....yeah, not so much. Too bad replacing the injector won't fix low compression; or hopefully you saw the broken intake rocker arm when you had the valve cover off to replace the injector.
What I'm really trying to say, in fewer words, is that a lot of people put a lot of faith in "the codes" that they get when hooking up their whiz-bang scanner. Few things get my blood boiling than people who ask me, "Can't you just hook your computer up to it and have it tell you what's wrong? Why are you charging me so much just to have it scanned? I know it only takes two minutes!!" A code gives a person direction. Yes, a few are clear-cut. However, most times a code is a result of a malfunctioning SYSTEM, not just a sensor or solenoid.
If you think I'm an *** for posting this, so be it. My replies to posts MAY be a little on the brazen side these days and for that, I am a bit ashamed. I never used to be this way....but after a while of hearing the same old misguided "diagnostic tool" references, and KNOWING that the person with the concern is going to spend a ton of time and money throwing guesses at his vehicle, it really bothers me. None of us want to spend a dime on letting someone else fix the problem....I know. It's not something to hide: times are tough and money's tight. However, I cannot stand by and watch someone aimlessly throw money out the window.....it's the realist in me. Besides, being compassionate about doing the job right doesn't help either.
THAT'S where I was going with my previous comment.
Well said Cody...It gives any "lay person" like myself something to think about...I think we confuse "cost" and "value" sometimes. Cost is what we pay, value is what we get. A good technician can give us a lot of value for the cost of his expertise.
In addition, I have heard A TON of horror stories from dealership "technicians" as well who are nothing more than parts-changers. It sickens me, but there's nothing I can do about it. Unfortunately, there are people out there who WILL take your money and run....and keep telling you that "this part fixed this problem, but caused this other part to come up bad"......not real likely unless you're dealing with post-catalytic converter oxygen sensor problems or fuel tank pressure sensors.
Vehicle repair is one of those things where not everything is cut-and-dry. Really, it's up to the owner to do what he or she wants. Sometimes, it's best to ask around and see what shops are legit and which ones have scared off half of their customer base.
In addition, I have heard A TON of horror stories from dealership "technicians" as well who are nothing more than parts-changers. It sickens me, but there's nothing I can do about it. Unfortunately, there are people out there who WILL take your money and run....and keep telling you that "this part fixed this problem, but caused this other part to come up bad"......not real likely unless you're dealing with post-catalytic converter oxygen sensor problems or fuel tank pressure sensors.
Vehicle repair is one of those things where not everything is cut-and-dry. Really, it's up to the owner to do what he or she wants. Sometimes, it's best to ask around and see what shops are legit and which ones have scared off half of their customer base.
I think I will go back and edit my post to underline "good technician" .