I have 1970 f-250 farm truck that is in pretty good shape. I recently had to replace the fuel filter and my auxiliary fuel tank seems to have some sort of clog in it but other than that it runs great. There is a little rust in the bed but the paint job even looks good. I want to start slowly restoring it though to eventually turn it into a prettier machine. Does anyone have any advice on where I should get started? I want to start on the least costly end of things and I still want to be able to drive it. Any thought?

 

Create a list of what you want to accomplish. Then list them by priority and get started.

 

Get it running 100% first... then you can nickle & dime yourself to death with making it look pretty!

Seriously, get all the mechanics sorted out, that way you can still drive it while you are working on it, take it to car shows, etc. Once you've got it running the way you need, start on the bodywork.

Function over form...always.

 

I mean it already runs great. Starts every time. I have had a couple mechanics look at and say that for its age and everything being seemingly original it is in surprisingly great shape. I was wondering about engine components that I can start to update that would not cost me an arm and a leg and not put the thing out of commission for long periods of time.

 

A 40+ year old truck may run great...but that doesn't mean it's 100%. You WILL have to change ALL of the fluids, redo the brakes, including replacing every rubber line on the truck, replace motor, tranny, transfer case and body mounts, new shocks, hoses, belts, heater core, windshield wipers, radiator...ad nauseam.

Do yourself and every body else on the road a favour and replace every perishable on that truck. THEN you can start playing.


A wiser man than me said: If you don't know how old the fluids or belts are...change them.

 

Then you can:
1) replace the exhaust with headers and free flow mufflers $600-800
2) edelbrock 4 barrel intake and edelbrock carb $800

Now it gets expensive, because you will soon find out that: manual steering sucks and 4 wheel drum brakes suck even more. So dig deep down into your pockets and use the search function...

 

Oh and...oxymoron...least costly? When dealing with antique, vintage or classic vehicles "least costly" is before "Sasquatch" and after "Fairy dust".

 

i bought a really nice 70 ranger xlt from a friend and just started by scuffing and buffing the original paint.wound up doing a 2 year frame off restoration that cost 20 thou including making her a modded 390.worth it if you have the money. you won't make it back, it's a labor of love.

 

I wrote this back in July 2010 for a Dent cuz that's what I had. Now I have a 70 Bump. Here's the thread with three pages of comments and input: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...p-by-step.html

"
Arright FTE guys and gals.. I've been thinking of doing this for a while so here it is... a phased guide to reviving /rebuilding a Dent (or just about any vehicle) as a restoration, restomod, or custom. This is what I came up with and I hope it proves useful. Your phases may vary.

First a note, some of the phases can be piggybacked. For example, subassemblies (chassis, engine, etc.) can be done while the bodywork is being completed.

Here we go:

Pre-Teardown Phase
Determine the purpose of your rig... street/strip, trail riding, daily driver, etc.
Determine budget...
Now add another 20 percent to your budget.
Determine sources for tech support and parts.
Build a Dentside Reference Library
Order lots of catalogs!!
Invest in a factory shop manual. Chilton's is better than Haynes IMO.
Get your work area and tools in order
Needs.... Money, time, and patience.

Phase 1 - Teardown
Bodywork / Interior Disassembly.
Catalog, label, and bag your parts!
Engine & transmission removal
Bed & cab removal
Chassis disassembly (including rear axle) and hardlines

Phase 2a - Bodywork
Clean & strip body finish
Bodywork, body mods, and seal with epoxy primer
Door fitment & gaps (rebuild your door hinges now)
Paint job!

Phase 2b - Chassis
Strip & refinish frame
Build axles and install new brakes
Build new suspension & steering
Install fuel tank, fuel line, brake lines.

Phase 3 - Powertrain Build-up
Build engine
Build transmission
Build transfer case

Phase 4 - Cab Assembly
Install cab on frame
Install & adjust door & window mechanicals
Install door window glass, rear glass, and windshield
Install firewall pad
Run all electrical wiring, vacuum hoses, & control cables.
Install under dash components like wiper motor, etc.
Install instruments, steering wheel and column
Install climate control systems
Run any sound-system wiring
Lay sound deadener (like Dynamat) and carpet underlayments

Phase 5 - Powertrain Installation
Install engine/transmission/transfer case
Install brake hydraulics (MC/booster/proportioning valve)
Build exhaust system
Install core support & radiator

Phase 6 - First Run
Perform preliminary engine system checks and FIRE IT UP!
At this point you should have a truck that is driveable but not road legal.

Phase 7 - Front Clip Assembly & Bed Assembly
Install inner fenders, fenders, and hood
Install bed and route wiring to rear

Phase 8 - Interior
Upholstery & headliner
Install interior accessories
Watershields & door panels
Carpeting
Install seat(s)

Phase 9 - You're Almost There!
Dial-in engine tuning
Install exterior electrical components (head, tail, side marker, running lights, etc.)
Perform a thorough vehicle system checks
Detail work (emblems, grill, bumpers, etc.)
Exterior accessories (winch, light bars, auxiliary lights, etc.)

Phase 10 - Celebrate!"

 

First , I concur your point about changing all the fluids to establish a baseline and getting it running safely and dependably.

Second, I believe a resto/budget build is very doable but it depends how much of the work you can do yourself and where you put your money. Junk yards, bartering and trading, swap meets, cheap tricks, and learning how to do bodywork, painting, welding, and rebuilding the systems is just part of being a gearhead. I'd rather spend $300 on tools than to pay the same amount to, for example, have someone replace wheel bearings on my car. Sometimes expedience rules the day so I'll bite the bullet every once in a while to ahve it done but 90% of the time it's on me.

Be a lifelong learner and put the skills you learn to work. Don't forget to have fun doing it. My brother and I "hang out" by spending a day "shopping" at various wrecking yards. It's great. We talk and chat while pulling parts.

Here are my examples which all include the initial cost of the vehicle:

I'm having fun with my Dent below now that it is "finished" (Realistically, it's never finished) but the running total on this is only $4,800.

Some of the deals include a $20 pushbar, $60 for the lights, $23 for the light rack, $10 Ranger mirrors, $40 Rancho RS5000 shocks (all four!), $40 bumpers, a $23 Class III tow hitch, $20 steering wheel, and a $130 paint job. The big costs were the lift kit, tires, an integral PS retrofit, and exhaust.


Running total on this is $8,700... had to rebuild everything including the engine.


Here's my $6K impulse buy ...now currently tallied $16,600:


My current project bought for $650. It'll get fuel injection and a TKO-500:

 

Mechanical work first, body and paint second, upholstery last.

 

I start with undercarriage (suspension, steering, brakes), engine & trans, wiring, body & interior.

 

Everyone has some pretty good suggestions on where to start, but how about. STOP THE RUST! Or at least take some immediate steps to slow it down until you can get to a more involved attempt to stop the rust. Mechanics are important, and allow you to still use the vehicle and move it around; but, it all takes a second seat to body structure and slowing that ever present rust which most of our vehicles unfortunately have somewhere within them.

 

I perplexed on that one for awhile. The direction I'm taking is based on cash flow as much as anything. Can't afford everything at one time so have to go in stages. Don't want it in pieces for months and months. Want to drive it some while working on it. Mine has some minor rust on it so first I pulled all the reflectors and trim and got the surface rust off. Still plenty hiding under the bed for later. Now I'm working on engine, trans., rear end and suspension, brakes and "perishables" while I get all the gauges, lights and steering column related problems working. Still get to **** off the neighbors rumbling up and down my quiet culdesac. Later I'll do a nice new exhaust. I'll be doing a complete frame off and I'm fortunate enough to work somewhere that has a large open building I can use so I'm collecting a pressurized tank sand blaster, compressor and related "stuff". When I get there I'll need to have glass, door felt, window seals, carpet, etc.... That will be a bit later. Lots of money spent to get there. I'll also need to be able to move the cab, bed, frame etc. around from place to place cause after sandblasting comes the body work and paint stage. I'm thinking of doing that myself too. Looking for a car hauler to pull behind my daily driver truck. Sorry,... it's a Silverado. Man this is getting deep. Now if you got the dough and don't want to drive the thing for a couple of years and have lots of time to focus on it then I'd say dive in. I'm going to have to make this thing fit. Eventually I'll start posting pics of the progress.

 

On the subject of rust I would start with a reasonably solid truck. I drove down to GA from IN to get mine. Why the $500 worth of transport cost? Cab mounts: Solid, Floor: Solid, Cab corners: Solid, Inner fender wells: Solid, Hood mount area: Solid. Getting the picture? I spent an additional $500 driving down there and back but saved myself way more than $500 in body damage. I realize you already have your truck but perhaps you might find it wiser (depending on where you are) to sell what you have and shop for a solid truck to start with. Mine was advertised for $1500 and I drove it back from GA. Since then I have found cheaper and closer trucks.