Hello everyone!
The auxillary fuel tank is not genuine Ford, because the fuel cap is located behind a door that is riveted to the bedside.
The heater water valve or the heater core may have sprung a leak. The heater valve is available from Ford, the heater core can be recored by a radiator shop.
C3UZ-18495-A .. Heater Valve (Motorcraft YG-133).
MSRP: $46.16 / FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept. sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $27.70 / PartsGuyEd: Horizon Ford in Seattle WA
The seat upholstery is available from smsautofabrics.com (located in Canby OR).
I cannot tell if the A/C is factory or dealer installed because I cannot see enough of the bezel.
If the A/C controls are in the same panel as the heater controls: Factory installed Integral A/C .. which has a separate glove box within the bezel.
The reason for the extra glove box: The A/C's expansion valve is mounted where the glove box liner used w/o AC would normally be.
The dash glove box liner with factory A/C is very short, why There are two glove boxes.
I know she's in great shape...it's just hard not to want to tear her apart and make everything perfect after seeing all the restoration pictures on here!
I mostly just want to fix all the leaks and get the motor running perfectly.
Bill, I'm pretty sure the A/C is a factory unit...it has the second glove box in it. The PO said that it should work, there was just one part missing that I'm hoping is in that box he's sending me. There seem to be quite a few pieces that are disconnected under the hood that appear to be A/C or heater related
.I'm also wondering about these guys:
<a href="http://s1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd369/tmanhwm/Truck/?action=view&current=IMG_0375.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd369/tmanhwm/Truck/IMG_0375.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I've seen some pictures elsewhere on the site of engine bays, and there are definitely wires missing here. All of my electric system seems to be working correctly though. Anyone know what's supposed to be here?
In your engine compartment pic I couldn't see a reservoir (maybe in your box of parts).
Meanwhile for your viewing pleasure,check this link to LMC truck for a good place to start. Since you brought it up.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fb/full.aspx?Page=131
BTW
Take your time with your restore. Get your running gear and engine working properly and safely. Then move on to the interior and the candy. If you do small jobs and keep your truck running you will enjoy it much, much more than taking it all apart and having a non working hulk sitting in front of your house.
Ask me how I know this to be true. Go ahead, ask.
In your engine compartment pic I couldn't see a reservoir (maybe in your box of parts).
Meanwhile for your viewing pleasure,check this link to LMC truck for a good place to start. Since you brought it up.
LMC Truck Parts - Page 131
While not an FTE sponsor, The Truck and Car Shop is located in Orange, has a huge display area, parts counter and all sorts of neat things on display including neon signs and old gas pumps.
All the repro parts suppliers sell the same stuff. So why pay shipping charges from KS (LMC) since the parts are available a coupla miles away?
The w/shield washer part on the cowl is the junction block for the R/S washer jet. Both jets are located within the cowl panel.
The reservoir mounts to the left (drivers) side fender apron (it's MIA in the engine pic), the pump nestles inside the reservior, is held in place with a star lock ring.
The bottom of the reservoir has a nipple, the washer hose connects to that, then routes up the apron to a T fitting on the cowl. One hose then routes from the T to the left jet.
Another hose routes from the T to the junction block for the R/S jet.
I could swing on by, bring the parts catalog along, since I don't live too far from Costa Mesa.
Now I do.
I don't know anything about them. Is their catalog as comprehensive as DC and LMC?
I'd much rather support the locals though LMC has been very good.
I'm not a big fan of LMC, who...btw is a middle-man operation. Middle-man operations carry very little inventory, and use the J. Paul Getty method of making money.
Most of what you see in their catalogs...they don't have. When you send in your order, they use your money to buy the parts elsewhere, from autoparts stores and/or other repop suppliers.
In some cases, they mark up the prices in the process. Case in point:
Last week an FTE member bought a 1975/77 F100/350 Speed Control only steering wheel, horn pad and switches, LMC charged him $718.00.
When the parts arrived, the shipping carton was marked LMC, but when it was was opened, the parts inside were in Dennis Carpenter boxes.
Carpenter's price: $500.00. The member coulda saved 218 buckaroo's by buying the parts from the source that repops them.
It's muy importante to have ALL the repro parts suppliers catalogs, which can be downloaded, and there are faaar more than Blue Oval, Dennis Carpenter, LMC, Truck & Car.
Auto Krafters, John's F Fun 100's (Corona), C & G Ford Parts (Escondido), Carolina Classics, Early Ford Store (San Dimas), Mar-K, Mac's Antique Auto Parts, National Parts Depot (Ventura), Sacramento Vintage Ford.
And, if you attend the F100 Western Nats Truck Show (held in June at Featherley Park in Yorba Linda, north of the 91), you can see 100's of trucks, get ideas, buy parts, get free catalogs, cuz some of the repoppers are present.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
The price thing I haven't had a problem with. I check prices against the DC catalog and usually find that DC is more expensive. Guess it's different for different stuff.
I'll order some catalogs from Blue Oval. As I said I'd much rather support the locals especially if they support us. And if I can't wait for a piece I could run down and pick it up. Otherwise it comes to my door.
So tmanhwm, this is the kind of info sharing you get here.
It's way worth hanging around.
Have fun with your truck.
BTW
Put your real first name in your sig and WTH is tmanhwm about.
The price thing I haven't had a problem with. I check prices against the DC catalog and usually find that DC is more expensive. Guess it's different for different stuff.
I've been to DC's Concord NC location. Went there in 2004 while in the area attending the Studebaker Drivers Club's national car show/swap meet.
Planned on spending a coupla hundred bucks (uh huh, yeah right-that was the plan) for parts for my '63 Galaxies.
After spending 3,000 bucks on NOS and repro parts, drove back to Charlotte 4 hours later listening to "She who must be obeyed" whining/moaning about all the dinero I'd spent.
"She" hates old rolling piles of misery, loves money...like most women I've known.








I remember my dad getting his brand new 73 Ford pickup. I was 5 years old at the time. We had to roadtrip to go pick it up - local dealer didn't have what he wanted. She was a beauty, Red/White with factory A/C. That truck had bounced around various family members before it was finally sold to someone outside the family. That was back in the 80's, and at that time it was approaching 400K miles.
I got the box from the PO in the mail today...
<a href="http://s1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd369/tmanhwm/Truck/?action=view&current=IMG_0384.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd369/tmanhwm/Truck/IMG_0384.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd369/tmanhwm/Truck/?action=view&current=IMG_0385.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd369/tmanhwm/Truck/IMG_0385.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
TREASURE!!!

The original radio! (was wondering where it was)
A Holley 2300 carb
Enough spark plugs and carb rebuild kits to last a lifetime.
And a whole bunch of NOS parts!
Anyone need an ammeter?
I'm going to work my way through the box and see what else is here. I've got the original Autolite carb on there right now, but it needs a rebuild. Anyone think I should swap it for the Holley? Pros and Cons?









If only I could get him to turn a wrench!