How did this turn out?

 

not good. After replacing the FICM there was no improvement. Finally broke down last week and took it to the dealer and got some terrible news.

#2 #4 #6 injectors not firing correctly when cold and it looks like the head gaskets are toast. Pressure was through the roof accoding to the tech. Dealer quoted almost $5000.00.

My worry is this. If I have the dealer fix this, it will not fix the root cause of the issue which is the studs (from what I have read). I dont know if the dealer would install the stud kit.

Anyone have any good diesel guys near Cincinnati, OH that I could talk to about having this work done? If I am going to have the motor torn down this far I think it would be silly to not do the ARP studs and all the injectors at the same time. Maybe even an EGR delete.

I dont think this is something I could tackle myself so if you know anyone in the area please let me know.

Thanks!!

 

Be cautious of what the dealer told you! I'm 2 1/2 hours north of you and dealer said I had 8 bad injectors a bad oil cooler and bad egr cooler found this forum and with there help so far not sure that any of those things are bad!
Good Luck!

 

I am going to break down and handle this crap once and for all. lol
Going to take a week vacation from work and do head studs, head gaskets, EGR delete, injectors, oil cooler, glow plugs and add an SCT tuner. If you guys can think of anything else I may want to look into, please let me know.
Tired of worrying all the time and this should fix alot of my current and potential problems.
Hopefully I can finish it in a week, I know I have my work cut out for me.........

 

Change to ELC coolant (CAT Approved) so you may want to clean out the system before you start the job.

 

doooooo itttt!!!!
i wish i had the money id do the same thing... read up on studs tho, either pull the motor or cab.... some have done it in the truck but it seems to be not as definite that way....
keep us updated

 

I found a couple really good videos from a Ford tech that shows the proceedure without pulling the motor or lifting the cab. Looks like I will need to order 1 special tool from snap on for the the back drivers side bolt but other than that it reall doesnt look to bad.

I'll try to post some pics as I go and keep the thread updated.

I'm a little nervous about doing all of this but I just cant afford to pay someone else to do it.

Time for the 6.0 crash course!

 

My problem with the HG diagnos is in your first post you mention nothing about Coolant puke out the coolant Bottle and also no mention of temp spike

Do you have any white residue around the coolant bottle cap???

I would almost replace those injectors first and see what happens
If the injectors are bad they could be overfueling causing the diffrence in cylinder pressure

so Id do injectors and if theres No Coolant puke or High temp spikes in the ECT dont worrey about the heads

what pressure did they say was thru the roof Coolant pressuer or cylinder pressure

 

There is a small amount of residue, but I wont say its "puking" ll over the place.
I know there is a pressure issue because I can hear it. There is a low pitched tea kettle whistle from the degas bottle when I hit the throttle and when I let off. There is no temp spike that I have noticed. I was planning on doing head studs eventually anyway, so this just gives me an excuse to knock it all out. Ive read alot of articles on here and other forums about "bullet proofing" the 6.0 so I'm just gonna give it a shot now that I have scheduled the time.

 

Any chance someone can get me the dimensions for the:
OTC 303-759 Cylinder Head Lifting Bracket?
I cant see paying $112.00 for something that I will hopefully only use 1 time. I have a buddy that could fabricate one if I had the dimensions.

Thanks!

 

Got all my parts in.
Arp Head studs, head gaskets, oil cooler, EGR delete, 8 injectors, glowplugs, SCT Livewire, and all the gaskets.
Gonna be a long week. lol



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Done and Done!
2 guys and 8 days later.
Running like a million bucks!

I will never ever go through that again............

 

Thats Great you got it going again

Did you take any other pics of your work

Did you shave the Heads or anything like that??
or did you find a Blown HGs

1more thing did you remove the A/C Box on the passenger side firewall or just the Cover???

 

I'll get some pics up later this week. back to work so havent had alot of time. She seems to be running great but I dont want to jinx myself and brag yet. lol

I did remove most of the AC and the cover to the box. It was really tight in there. The snapon tool for head bolts was a lifesaver on both sides. $50.00 well spent.

I did not have any work done to the heads. cleaned them up really well with the pads recommended by ford vids I had and put it back together.
I did have to replace 2 pushrods and a rocker while I was in there.(long embarassing story). I also replaced the idler pully that had a little wobble in it.

Also, its a real pain but removing the inner fender wells gives you alot of space to work. With the battery boxes out and the fender wells I could stand up in the engine compartment right at the tires. Made getting to things alot easier.

The top of the motor is pretty easy to pull apart and reassemble but I'll be honest there was a few times that I was wondering why I tried to do this myself. Its a big job and I can see why Ford charges so much. I am an IT guy that know just a little about turning a wrench but Ive never gone this far into a motor. I am kind of surprised that my buddy and I pulled this off.

If you are considering doing head gaskets/studs yourself, make sure you have a buddy or 2 with you and do yourself a favor and borrow or rent a hoist. Those heads weigh a freakin ton. lol

 

Hi, wondering what my problem could be then. Not to hijack thread but very similar problem, my truck misses on a cylinder or more when cold and seems to run rough even if its been idling a while. But once on the highway or running a steady pace a bit it seems okay, had a new hi pressure pump, injector and standpipe orings, and an IPR valve all done about 25k ago, already had the egr delete kit when I bought it and also installed a new ficm from Ed when the other work was done. Once its good and hot it runs great, but until then its a piece of crap I have to drive around spitting and sputtering and missing and making crap for power. Can't think that any of the new parts would be failing already and I e ran it with motor craft oil, delvac, and guess now I will try the synthetic 5w40 or the additive mentioned and see what happens. I'm in Missouri and its sort of cold as to weather but even when its warm outside it still needs to be warmed up all the way. Thanks in advance and good luck with your 6.0's bulletproofing project.