does anyone know if the fuel rails need to be removed when replacing the plugs?also what is the torque spec for the plugs,i read 14ft lbs,is that correct?

 

Nope... here's what I posted in the other thread just now:

If you're talking about the 5.4L, then I can say for sure that it can be done without loosening the fuel rails. I did mine and didn't have to do that.

Can't speak for the V10 though.

This is from when I did mine:
2004 F250 5.4L Spark Plug Change


And -- I torqued mine to 11 ft-lbs

 

changed plugs in my v-10 without moving fuel rails, there are several very good write ups on plug changes that unfortunately have different torque specs and recommendations on anti seize or not. Absolutely do not change plugs without a source of air to blow debris out before removing plugs(mine had a lot of sand on drivers side that could cause serious damage inside the cylinders)

 

thanks 1975stroppebaja mine is a 2003 5.4.what is the gap spec?i dont have any plugs now,but i just pulled the 2 front plugs to look at them.i am going to replace them.i have 57k on the truck.have you replaced the ball joints?

 

I think the spark gap is .080 but check manual to verify. May be different for different years.

I recommend the ORIGINAL motorcraft plugs and the ORIGINAL motorcraft COP's if you are changing them.

I imagine if you are changing plugs you are about due for some coil packs to fail. Summit Racing will price-match on the coil packs. I found the best price (when buying 8+) to be Diesel Filters Online @ $39.99 each. Summit will match that if you call them.

I have seen guys who love the Accel and the MSD's and I have seen guys that HATE them as well. I have never heard anyone complain about the OEM Motorcraft coils!!

And there is a write-up off-site that recommends 28-32 lb./ft. of torque. Others will tell you 14. I used the 28-32 simply b/c 14 is a VERY light torque and I was afraid they'd work loose again. Read up all that you can and judge for yourself!!

And, no, I did not remove the fuel rails to do my plugs nor when I did my coils a few weeks later. Yes, that's why I recommend doing it all at once!!

 

Just saw you only have 57k miles. I had over 100k on mine before plug change - I think most guys do.

Yep, all four ball-joints at 56k!!!

There is (or was) a kit sold online for the ball-joints. Had all the seals and parts you'd need. It was a diesel site but can't remember the name of it. Maybe someone will chime in...

 

did you guys see any improved gas mileage with the plug change?also thanks for all of the info.

 

Over 100K here also (105K) before I changed mine. I did not remove the rails, but did loosen them to move them slightly out of the way. I did the 14 torque. No noticeable improvement in gas mileage, and since it ran great before, it ran just a little greater after! I sold the truck with 125,000 miles on it to a guy down the street, and he's still driving the heck out of it, and pulling his 7,000 travel trailer with it.

 

I did mine when I got my truck 136k miles. Gap was .054 should come pre-gap'd motorcraft SP479 and I used anti seize and torqued to 14lbs.

 

Here's why I settled on 11 ft lbs. By the way, I did spot check one plug on each side after about 1000 miles to make sure they were still tight and they were.

 

Agreed 11lbs would be great however a few things to keep in mind.

11lbs w/o lube might not seat them correct as friction ( metal threads vs. aluminum heads )
11lbs w/ lube will be a lot more in the ball park.

I watched a great review of this in Horsepower TV the other day. They were showing different thread lubes vs. the torque values achieved. Highly recommend checking it out.

ARP Ultra-Torque Tested on Horsepower TV - YouTube

 

If I can find the Ford recommendation I'll try and scan and post, but no fuel rails don't have to be removed. I used brake cleaner to let soak and work back and forth, there's a great thread on here somewhere and I did 11ft lbs(Actually just looked back I went 120 inch pounds, I used a 3/8" torque ratchet cause it was easier to maneuver so 12 ft lbs) with anti seize no problems so far been a couple of months, also I only changed one COP the bad one and I used autolite plugs, I have a V-10 took me 10 hrs but that was mostly an excuse to get away from the wife, LOL OH AND MOST IMPORTANT THING A COLD ENGINE!

 

Yeah, I used 11 ft lbs with a little dab of antiseize on the threads.

 

It's not that I don't trust you guys, but...is there really a reason 11 ft/lbs is better than say 25 ft/lbs on the plugs? I mean, I've never had a plug pop out of anything in my whole life (I'm 49) and I tighten plugs in everything I've ever owned to much more than 11 ft/lbs. I just spent the weekend replacing the valve cover and intake gaskets in my '88 Mustang ( both of which leaked like a sieve and were original) I swear to God, the manual actually said 3-5 lbs for the valve cover bolts! No wonder they leaked! They were so loose I actually removed about half of them with only a socket and extension, no ratchet! So please forgive me if I don't always take the engineer's word for it on torque values that really matter, but I'd like to know why such a low value is prefered.

 

Yes but No,

Yes, if the heads are aluminum you can strip them easily due to cross thread, improper torque, and last but not least head temperature due the different expansion rates of the plug material and head thus why you have to make sure to do it when the motors cold just to name a few.

No, cast iron heads not to much. its a lot harder to strip/damage them but make sure to use anti seize as they will freeze in the block.