remove fuel rails for plug change
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 8
From: WV
Nope... here's what I posted in the other thread just now:
If you're talking about the 5.4L, then I can say for sure that it can be done without loosening the fuel rails. I did mine and didn't have to do that.
Can't speak for the V10 though.
This is from when I did mine:
2004 F250 5.4L Spark Plug Change
And -- I torqued mine to 11 ft-lbs
If you're talking about the 5.4L, then I can say for sure that it can be done without loosening the fuel rails. I did mine and didn't have to do that.
Can't speak for the V10 though.
This is from when I did mine:
2004 F250 5.4L Spark Plug Change
And -- I torqued mine to 11 ft-lbs
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 68
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changed plugs in my v-10 without moving fuel rails, there are several very good write ups on plug changes that unfortunately have different torque specs and recommendations on anti seize or not. Absolutely do not change plugs without a source of air to blow debris out before removing plugs(mine had a lot of sand on drivers side that could cause serious damage inside the cylinders)
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New User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
thanks 1975stroppebaja mine is a 2003 5.4.what is the gap spec?i dont have any plugs now,but i just pulled the 2 front plugs to look at them.i am going to replace them.i have 57k on the truck.have you replaced the ball joints?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 929
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
I think the spark gap is .080 but check manual to verify. May be different for different years.
I recommend the ORIGINAL motorcraft plugs and the ORIGINAL motorcraft COP's if you are changing them.
I imagine if you are changing plugs you are about due for some coil packs to fail. Summit Racing will price-match on the coil packs. I found the best price (when buying 8+) to be Diesel Filters Online @ $39.99 each. Summit will match that if you call them.
I have seen guys who love the Accel and the MSD's and I have seen guys that HATE them as well. I have never heard anyone complain about the OEM Motorcraft coils!!
And there is a write-up off-site that recommends 28-32 lb./ft. of torque. Others will tell you 14. I used the 28-32 simply b/c 14 is a VERY light torque and I was afraid they'd work loose again. Read up all that you can and judge for yourself!!
And, no, I did not remove the fuel rails to do my plugs nor when I did my coils a few weeks later. Yes, that's why I recommend doing it all at once!!
I recommend the ORIGINAL motorcraft plugs and the ORIGINAL motorcraft COP's if you are changing them.
I imagine if you are changing plugs you are about due for some coil packs to fail. Summit Racing will price-match on the coil packs. I found the best price (when buying 8+) to be Diesel Filters Online @ $39.99 each. Summit will match that if you call them.
I have seen guys who love the Accel and the MSD's and I have seen guys that HATE them as well. I have never heard anyone complain about the OEM Motorcraft coils!!
And there is a write-up off-site that recommends 28-32 lb./ft. of torque. Others will tell you 14. I used the 28-32 simply b/c 14 is a VERY light torque and I was afraid they'd work loose again. Read up all that you can and judge for yourself!!
And, no, I did not remove the fuel rails to do my plugs nor when I did my coils a few weeks later. Yes, that's why I recommend doing it all at once!!
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 929
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From: Ohio
Just saw you only have 57k miles. I had over 100k on mine before plug change - I think most guys do.
Yep, all four ball-joints at 56k!!!
There is (or was) a kit sold online for the ball-joints. Had all the seals and parts you'd need. It was a diesel site but can't remember the name of it. Maybe someone will chime in...
Yep, all four ball-joints at 56k!!!
There is (or was) a kit sold online for the ball-joints. Had all the seals and parts you'd need. It was a diesel site but can't remember the name of it. Maybe someone will chime in...
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New User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 11
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did you guys see any improved gas mileage with the plug change?also thanks for all of the info.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,243
Likes: 79
From: Roman Forest, TX
Over 100K here also (105K) before I changed mine. I did not remove the rails, but did loosen them to move them slightly out of the way. I did the 14 torque. No noticeable improvement in gas mileage, and since it ran great before, it ran just a little greater after! I sold the truck with 125,000 miles on it to a guy down the street, and he's still driving the heck out of it, and pulling his 7,000 travel trailer with it.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 103
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From: Waynesville, GA
Agreed 11lbs would be great however a few things to keep in mind.
11lbs w/o lube might not seat them correct as friction ( metal threads vs. aluminum heads )
11lbs w/ lube will be a lot more in the ball park.
I watched a great review of this in Horsepower TV the other day. They were showing different thread lubes vs. the torque values achieved. Highly recommend checking it out.
ARP Ultra-Torque Tested on Horsepower TV - YouTube
11lbs w/o lube might not seat them correct as friction ( metal threads vs. aluminum heads )
11lbs w/ lube will be a lot more in the ball park.
I watched a great review of this in Horsepower TV the other day. They were showing different thread lubes vs. the torque values achieved. Highly recommend checking it out.
ARP Ultra-Torque Tested on Horsepower TV - YouTube
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: maine
If I can find the Ford recommendation I'll try and scan and post, but no fuel rails don't have to be removed. I used brake cleaner to let soak and work back and forth, there's a great thread on here somewhere and I did 11ft lbs(Actually just looked back I went 120 inch pounds, I used a 3/8" torque ratchet cause it was easier to maneuver so 12 ft lbs) with anti seize no problems so far been a couple of months, also I only changed one COP the bad one and I used autolite plugs, I have a V-10 took me 10 hrs but that was mostly an excuse to get away from the wife, LOL OH AND MOST IMPORTANT THING A COLD ENGINE!
Last edited by 1973Ford2004; Sep 7, 2011 at 04:20 PM. Reason: update info
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,215
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From: WV
Yeah, I used 11 ft lbs with a little dab of antiseize on the threads.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,066
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From: Rogue River, Oregon
It's not that I don't trust you guys, but...is there really a reason 11 ft/lbs is better than say 25 ft/lbs on the plugs? I mean, I've never had a plug pop out of anything in my whole life (I'm 49) and I tighten plugs in everything I've ever owned to much more than 11 ft/lbs. I just spent the weekend replacing the valve cover and intake gaskets in my '88 Mustang ( both of which leaked like a sieve and were original) I swear to God, the manual actually said 3-5 lbs for the valve cover bolts! No wonder they leaked! They were so loose I actually removed about half of them with only a socket and extension, no ratchet! So please forgive me if I don't always take the engineer's word for it on torque values that really matter, but I'd like to know why such a low value is prefered.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 103
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From: Waynesville, GA
Yes but No,
Yes, if the heads are aluminum you can strip them easily due to cross thread, improper torque, and last but not least head temperature due the different expansion rates of the plug material and head thus why you have to make sure to do it when the motors cold
just to name a few.
No, cast iron heads not to much. its a lot harder to strip/damage them but make sure to use anti seize as they will freeze in the block.
Yes, if the heads are aluminum you can strip them easily due to cross thread, improper torque, and last but not least head temperature due the different expansion rates of the plug material and head thus why you have to make sure to do it when the motors cold
just to name a few.No, cast iron heads not to much. its a lot harder to strip/damage them but make sure to use anti seize as they will freeze in the block.