Talking about the shaft between the back of the steering box, and the bottom of the column. This is a 79 150 4X4 with tilt, not sure if that makes a diferrence or not, but I do know there were several variations of the whole setup, within just a few years. Mine is the one with the rag joint at the bottom, that extends, and has the press in, cast flex joint at the top, that clamps down on the bottom of the column shaft with one bolt.

Anyway though, as is the case with pretty much everyone's who hasn't replaced it, mine is loose, and is the cause of about 75% of the play left in my steering.

I would like to get it tiiiiight somehow, but I know that that part is not repro'd, and is extremely rare NOS, and I'd rather not have to buy the whole new assembly.

I'm a pretty good welder/fabricator, but I'm wondering what others have done? I could see converting it to some type of flexing shaft, using some other kind of U joint, or doing something else totally different. Looking for some inspiration basically, what works, what doesn't? And also, how did they get the old joint in there? I'm assuming it's just pressed in, but it isn't wanting to press out too easily.....

I may just resize the holes and make something simple from brass for the time being, but somebody else has got to have tackled this at some point?

Thanks for info of any kind, AleX.

 

I'm thinking a heavy spring welded one end to each shaft section would do the job. I could see issue with that and strength though, especially obviously without P/S.

I could maybe weld a spring over a very simple u joint, so that the spring would keep it tight in low load conditions, but the u joint would still offer full strength. That's alot of work for not much gain though.

Two links of chain would be the ultimate in rudimentary, but I see that wearing faster than anything.

 

Borgeson Universal Company :: Ford Truck 1970-04

 

Well right, you see I'm cheap.....

 

Hah. Isnt everyone? Me too i have to figure out a way to make a steering shaft to fit around my headers and reach the steering box. The only other options is build a custom one. You can probably do it for about 100 for the whole shaft or like 50 to replace the rag joint with a u joint

 

dont spend money on that fancy stuff go get a splined unit like i put on..



rag joints/ those coupler things suck!!!! I always tell guys to get rid of it. Weld it to a piece of 3/4 round bar but the trick is set your steering column on the slotted base adjustable bolts to bottomed out when you measure for length. This way when you need to remove you loosen the threaded set screw on ujoint into splines then pull the column back out from the slotted holes till joint comes off splines.

 

The u joint wasnt too cheap though. I paid 70$ but you may find it cheaper. Since I put this on not once has it failed!

 

yeah... i need to do somthing like that.. just waitin on the headers..

 

I have found them for about $45 plus $10 shipping on ebay.... thats the cheapest i have seen so far.. try craigslist or swap meets for cheaper.

 

You have a 1973 F250 4WD, the OP has a 1979 F150 4WD. Two different animals.

1967/75 F100/250 4WD's have a replaceable u-joint in the lower steering shaft and coupler, do not use a rag joint. The coupler attaches to the input shaft of the steering box with a clamp and thru bolt.

1976/79 F150/250 4WD's & 1979 F350 4WD's use a one piece lower steering shaft and coupler assy. Excepting the rag joint, Ford sold no parts for it, and there are several different types.

E2HZ-3815-A (replaced C6TZ-3815-B) .. Steering Coupler Shaft U-Joint / Edit: Ford just obsoleted the puppy.

Applications: 1967/75 F100/250 4WD // 1963/69 N500/600 / 1968/86 C500/1000 / 1970/ LN500/750 and etc 500 series and larger trucks.

Edit: See post #12 for sources that have the puppy.

 

I need that u joint too. Mine is sloppy but I went to the Partguyed.com site an this is what I found

<table border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td class="tabletext" style="border-bottom: 1px solid #FFFFFF;">Item Number</td> <td class="tabletext" style="border-bottom: 1px solid #FFFFFF;" align="right"> MSRP</td> <td class="tabletext" style="border-bottom: 1px solid #FFFFFF" align="right"> Core Price</td> <td class="tabletext" style="border-bottom: 1px solid #FFFFFF;" align="right"> Price</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tabletext" valign="top">E2HZ3815A</td> <td class="tabletext" align="right" valign="top">$66.05</td> <td class="tabletext" align="right" valign="top">$0.00</td> <td class="tabletext" align="right" valign="top">$47.56</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tabletext" colspan="3">
KIT--UNIVERSAL JOINT

</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="4" class="tabletext" align="center"> This item is discontinued. </td></tr></tbody></table>

Is there any other sources?

 

Must have just been obsoleted, because a month ago, it was still a good part number, and the prices were the same.

E2HZ-3815-A = Last MSRP: $66.03 / Dealer net cost: $39.63 =

SCARFF FORD in Auburn WA has 1 = 800-543-2705.

VAN CLEVE FORD in Morton WA has 1 = 360-496-5999.

CRANDALL FORD in Park City UT has 5 = 800-497-8265.

BARRY MOTOR CO. in Danbury IA has 17 = 712-883-2421.

NORTHSIDE FORD TRUCKS in Portland OR has 18 = 503-282-7777.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 32 = 800-543-4959.

VINTAGE FORD PARTS in Beaver Dam WI has 89 = 877-846-8243.

There are more, a lot more, but I listed the sources closest to you and the sources with the largest quantity.

Call around for the best price. The dealers can still return it to Ford for credit, but will only get the net cost price.

Doesn't hurt to bargain either, cuz the worst they can say is no.

I doubt y'all will get a good price from Green & Vintage.

 

Ah OK, thanks for the info, more than I ever would even have known to ask for as usual haha, in the process of making one right now.....

 

This is what my 78 4x4 supercab has, it has no ragjoint.

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a204/KBrian/parts%20and%2089/5289091d.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

Thank you very much NumberDummy! I will be making some phone calls tomorrow.