I had a discussion over a Late model upgraded Aussie GT alloy replica manifold with Mark a the other day. look up 70's Falcon, Phase 3 GTHO, 6-pack charger and Torana and see what pops up. The others are Chrysler and Holden but were all good enough to keep Ford honest back in the day.

 

Also Monaro. good looking cars them all. The Falcon (GTHO)) very ballsy! Anyway you have a 400 so that is a slightly different animal.

 

wow. they're pretty beastly (the cars, that is).

yeah i've heard of 400's being turned into diff eaters. heard of some that could burn 'em in every gear with a grand or so sunk into 'em. i'm looking for good low end torque, because it's going into a 77 f150 4x4 which i'll be pulling people outta the ditch in the winter with (along with the occasional snow-bogging myself). looking for anything over 350ftlbs at the lowest rpm possible.

 

Like i said they all kept each other honest in their own way. Can't comment on the 400 as they are a rare thing over here and not too many know about them. Parts are worse than over your way but if you pretended you were doing up a 351C and made it the same way it would haul! Down low torque is good planning. Nothing silly on cam, manifold or carby, if anything stay on the small side of carby and valves and get your comp up with better pistons and maybe heads and you're nearly there. Decent extractors (headers) wouldn't hurt either. Low down torque is all about air velocity in my book, but this would hurt your top obviously.

 

I've done over 2K in my 400, but it is in a pretty heavy 72 Galaxie. It has a C6 which is a horspower gobbling thing. Needs a few things before I start playing around with it too much but it DEFINITELY goes a lot better than when i bought it and the engine was worn out.

 

i've heard that some low-friction bearings help the c6's out a lot. throw a shift kit at it? i'm just naming off what most of the c6 builds i've heard of had.

 

Yes I know about those. Slightly lower planetary gear set as well to help too. Priced it all up a little while back and heaps cheaper to get ex US. I will do that when I eventually rebuild it. The tall 2.72 diff does me no favoursn but it does wind up ok at open road speeds.

 

If running a stock 351m/400 with a dual plane intake. 4 barrell intake. Get a nice carb holley type suggest quick fuel 600 to 750 annular booster with a 1:1 linkage. Done this many times and will stomp a edelbrock carb like you would not believe in a 4wd application. If you doubt me apparently your have never played with nice carbs. Most people can't believe a carb can make that much difference but to the very few like some of my customers know! I speak of this often and many people shoot me down. yes your fuel consumption will go up a little because you are working your truck for its intended purpose working it. But if you play nice and drive like a normal human being they are friendly to the wallet. Also the 1:1 will make you change your driving habits. have to be smoother on the throttle for sure. You will usually notice the difference in torque as soon as you put it in gear especially a automatic with a stock stall converter or something close to stock. I'm not talking like 5 or 10 ftlb torque difference either down low. I'm thinking like 30 to 50ftlb torque difference quickly. Engine is a air pump and the more efficient you make your engine the better it is per application. thanks guy and any question drop me a message and I know a few poor boy ways to make holley double pumper work for a rebuild kit and a few little tricks if interested. holley 4780, 4779, 4777 4776 holleys scary simple.

 

Without hijacking the thread, what is the 1:1 linkage on the carby you are referring too?

 

from what i've heard, holley has adjustable mechanical linkages for the secondaries. you can adjust them with a rod that changes the ratio(?) of how much the primaries open to the secondaries. 1:1 i think would be that the secondaries open the same amount.

 

Not so good on vacuum secondaries then. That would be for mechanical double pumper types yeah?

 

yeah i think so. i've had to deal with more efi's than 4bbl carbs in my life. usually if i work on a carb, it's a 1bbl atv carb or a 2bbl carb.

 

I won't be going near a mech secondary carbie for a while. Costs me enough to run even when I switch it to LPG ha ha.

 

1:1 linkage times the butterflys almost at the same time opening. If you want to make power down low got to get air in their also in the lower rpms. the linkage is around 35 bucks for the adjustable one. the adjustable on you can fine tune for your application or feel. The next thing is to square up your jets around lets say 68 frt and 70 rear not much spread on the jetting compared to a normal double pumper. they are around a 7 split like 68 frt and 75 rear jetting on a double pumper ballpark. Depending on you situation this is about routine for the 1:1 in a 4wd application squared up. One of the things I like is the feel of fuel injection just keeps on pullin, no little secondary kick. this is great for pullin trucks and other application to keep the tires from shaking or weird driveline shakes under heavy loads. It will totally change your trucks attitude down low on torque for the better especially with a annular booster, vaporizes the fuel better in lower rpms. the jetting is ball park but will have to adjust for situation/elevation or cubic inch situation. good luck!

 

There's a guy (barnet motorsports or something like that) that will take 400's out to 496 cubes . . . . it's for the truck pullers limited to no engine swaps, so alot of the 70's and early 80's ford trucks, granted these motors are running billet cranks, completely filled blocks, burning alcohol, etc.