A few things.

My truck is a beater and I've been trying to work out a few kinks. Lately its electrical (starting). On a few occasions while trying to start the truck it seems to get stuck while trying to start...meaning even if I pull the key back it still tries to start and then eventually runs out of power. I have to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. I recently replaced the starter solenoid but it still happened again.

I thought the ignition lock had little electrical contacts and assumed they may have been bad so I bought a new ignition lock. I took off my steering wheel and started looking for a way in which to remove the ignition lock. Here is where my alter ego steeped in and began to remove some components in the steering column.

I removed the turn signal assembly, and began to remove the two nuts (as shown on picture).




To my surprise the bolts they were attached to fell out the back. At this point I figured I had to get further inside the shaft in order to get the bolts out and reattach them. In doing so I removed a larger C clip and pulled on the assembly...separating it somewhat from the steering column.

I was able to get the bolts and nuts back on (still have no idea what purpose they serve) but now I am unable to get the assembly to fit back on the shaft properly. The gap between the two pieces is two large, and the key does not have a proper amount of return spring snap.

Here are my questions.

1) There were obviously no electrical contacts in the ignition lock but are instead held in the ignition switch to which the rod from the ignition connects. Could the ignition switch and connector (thing it attaches to) be the cause of the starter not turning off?

2) How in the world do I get the steering column to fit back on correctly and flush.





It serious need of help,

Thank you

 

The spring in the switch (down the column) is the only thing returning it to the run position - there are no other springs up at the key to return it.

My key became stiff to turn, particularly in cold weather - I cleaned the switch out (down on the column) with an aerosol electrical cleaner , then lubricated it with dielectric grease.

That made a big improvement but replacement switches are available pretty cheaply. Rockauto & others have them.
Regular grease on the key tumbler, & the rack/pinion helps too, if they are dry.

I can't remember the details of the column assembly, but someone will.

 

Steering columns are a headache, and I don't have any recommendations except just keep fiddling with it.

For your starting problem, look at the diagram below. Open the hood and get ready, and turn the key to start the engine. When it sticks and keeps cranking, run out and pull wire #5 off. If it keeps cranking, the keyswitch is not your problem, the solenoid is. Even though it's new, the ones you buy now are cheap junk and you have to keep trying till you find a good one.

 

i had problem with solenoids not lasting from parts houses . made in china junk went to ford dealer and got oem no more problem!

 

Thanks guys for the advice. I am thinking also that I should replace the ignition switch. I still can't figure out what is preventing me from being able to align the two parts flush. Perhaps its the rod running from the ignition to the switch.

You guys are so right about the solenoids. Its hard not to want the cheap Rock Auto junk but in the end the stress and headache aren't worth it.

If anyone else perhaps has a suggestion about aligning the steering parts so they lay flush I would be very thankful. I spent 2 hours yesterday and nothing.

 

First, Rock auto doesn't just have cheap junk, they have morocraft (among plenty of other brand) parts at great prices too. I was able to get a Motorcraft solenoid at Shucks (or whatever they are called now) they had to special order it though, had it the next day.

It is all about you get what you pay for. Sorry I can't help you with your column, I havent taken one apart yet...

 

Below the ignition cylinder is a snap ring, flat bearing and brass gear. The snap ring retains the cylinder into the upper steering column flange. The brass gear rides on the steering column lock.

The NSS actuating rod attaches to the 'steering column lock actuator' (has a coil spring made as part of it) that the lock attaches to.

Usual problems: The brass gear is notorious for stripping, the lock actuator's coil spring snaps.

The two bolts/nuts are used for the: Steering Column Tube Flange. You need to see a pic of the whole tamale.

Ask Chris (ctubutis) to scan and post this pic from the parts catalog: Illustration Section A72, Page 2 / All the parts of the column (non tilt) are shown in an exploded view.

btw: F100/350's & Bronco's began using this setup in 1980, but Passenger Cars used a similar setup beginning in 1968.

6fifty_f1fifty: A coupla years ago, O'Reilly's bought Checker Auto Parts who also owned Kragans & Shucks.

 

Here's some info about the Steering columns and fixes.

Ignition Actuator Replacement on an '85 w/tilt - FSB Forums

 

First of all, yes, as 6fifty_f1fifty said, one can get good parts at good prices at Rock Auto, one doesn't need to buy Chinese-made junk but they'll sell that to you if that's what you want.

RockAuto Frequently Asked Questions, Answers

Rock is a family-owned business who I've been using since before joining FTE, I only wish they were local to me.

No, I don't get a commission or anything, I'm just a happy customer and don't like seeing 'em slammed with inaccurate information.




About the steering column, Bill PM'd me on this.



First off, that HOWTO on FSB is pretty good! I'll even prolly add a link to that in our sticky here.

But that's for a tilt column and there are some differences.

Section A72 Pg. 2 of the Illustration Section of the parts book:






I'm also posting the procedures as listed in the 1981 factory shop manual - Pages 13-06-14 through -16 (which may or may not help).:











Hope this helps.

 

FWIW,
The last three solenoids I got -at the dealer- were "Made In China"
Also,
Motorcraft is.
Standard Automotive Products is.
Echlin is.
ALL the store brands are...

I finally solved my failing solenoid problem by going to a later model planetary gear reduction starter with a solenoid of it's own.

Now my fender mounted solenoid only has to pass 45A in order to energize the solenoid on the starter itself.
We'll see how this works out...

 

I have seen made in Mexico but not China.

Pictures?

Rock sells a lot of NOS stuff that's been sitting on shelves, but was made in USA.

 

I'll see if I can find a box buried somewhere.
If not, I'll manage to snap some pic's next time I'm at the parts counter.

I think a lot of the problems with the Chinese solenoids is the poor quality of the copper.
Certainly their brass leaves a lot to be desired.

 

Guy in a hardware store was telling me of problems with Indian steel & iron so problems with Chinese copper & brass wouldn't be a total surprise.

 

High quality contacts in a relay have silver in them. Of course silver is expensive.

 

The tensile strength of Chinese steel is nothing to brag about, either. It's 40% less than US steel...according to an article I read in "She, who must be obeyed's" NACE publication.

NACE: National Association of Corrosion Engineers.