Hey all! Like the title says just ended up with my first ranger. Traded my old ford for it.

What I have is a :
2001
Edge package
4x4
4.0 v6
auto tranny
brand new tires
200k mile truck


Before making the trade I tested it pretty good and seemed to do just fine. Just not sure what things I need to look for? I'm not use to having a vehicle with so many miles. I know the truck makes some noise while driving and previous owner said it was a u-joint, but haven't had a chance to look it over. I will be checking and changing fluids/filter as needed.

Also, are these trucks always so gutless? I know its only a v6 but my car has a ton more pep.

Thanks in advance!

 

Welcome to the Ranger forum.

I agree, it's a good idea to begin with changing All of the fluids & filters.
Note that the 4.0L is specified to use 5W-30 engine oil, NOT 5W-20. This is because the 4.0L & a few other engines never got an upgraded oil pump thats capable of supplying the needed flow of the lower viscosity hot 5W-20.

If you change the rear differential lube & have the "Traction Lock" rear end, be sure to use the specified synthetic gear lube AND 4oz of the Ford specified friction modifier, to prevent chatter/shudder.

As this is a 4X4, if it has the two piece rear drive shaft, make sure to check/lube it's splines with the TSB specified PTFE loaded lube product, as the splines are known to dry out & freeze/rust up & bind, to cause a driveline "thunk" on take off when torque is applied.

Also, seeing as how 01 was the first year for the OHC 4.0L in a Ranger, you'll want to find out if the timing chain tensioner has been replaced with the modified tensioner, as it was a noise source that sorta sounded like spark knock, or a diesel wrist pin knock, piston slap, or marble noise.

Be sure to check the PCV valve & it's rubber hose, as the hose is known to dryrot/crack underneath out of sight in the bend & cause a hard to find vacuum leak & driveability problems. At 200K the PCV is Way past due for a change if it hasn't been done.

Some 4.0L's are prone to Combustion Chamber Deposit Interference (CCDI), because of sloppy factory control of build up of tolerances, so the piston crowns can contact the head through the build up of carbon deposits on piston crowns & the head, in the "squish zone" on a cold start, until things warm up & expand enough to give clearance, so that type of noise goes away as the engine warms up. Ford has a 4.0L TSB decarbon proceedure for the condition, but I've found a way to get lasting results without having to replace the oil, filter & plugs as specified after doing their proceedure. Use the 20oz size Techron Concentrate Plus in the tank at the pump before filling up with Chevron, Texaco, or CalTex gas, which already have some Techron in them, so this will raise the treat rate 10X above the pump gas alone. Then do Fords TSB specified daily blow it out at rpm's above 3500 for 2-3 miles spirited type driving during the treated tank & run most of the treated tank out. That will usually get the job done in one tank without having to change the plugs, oil & oil filter. I typically do this 1-2 times a year to keep my CCDI in check.

Ford has now specified the fine wire iridium enhanced center electrode, with platinum pad side wire spark plug. They will offer up faster starts & hold the specified spark gap WAY longer than the OEM single platinum plugs, or double platinum plugs, in the 4.0L "waste spark" iginition system, which works our plugs Twice as often as the old distributor ignition system, or the COP ignition system. So opt for the Motorcraft, or Autolite iridium enhanced plugs & Motorcraft plug wires for best performance.

I'm running these plugs in my 99 Ranger 4.0L & 94 Taurus 3.8L & have noticeably faster starts year round. I also opted for OEM plug wires on both vehicles, as they are of very good quality & match the ignition systems impedence requirements.

With 200K on this ride & you reporting it being sluggish, I'd also consider pulling the MAF sensor & cleaning it with CRC, or Valvolene MAF sensor spray cleaner. Let it cool before cleaning, don't poke the sensor wires with the spray wand, keep it squeeky clean when reinstalling & see how it goes.

Seeing as how you like to turn your own wrenches, be sure to check out the "Tech Info" thread atop this forums thread listing page, for all kinds of maintenance/repair info.
At the bottom of the Tech Info page is a link on how to easily do a full tranny fluid pump out & with 200K I'll bet the tranny needs it.

The OHC 4.0L isn't wimpy, so something isn't right with it if it is, so a good tune up to factory specs with new fluids & filters as you've proposed, is a good idea to begin with imo.
A bunch of thoughts for consideration, let us know how your Scheduled Maintenance service goes & how the sluggish condition responds.

 

I would have to agree with pawpaw, there aint something right with it, even my ranger which i have driven the crap out of and never replaced anything but engine oil.. Now that I am home from iraq its going to get a full run through so it works good again. Even in that trucks state its got some pep and will still squeal the tires if i really get on it.

 

BigBody, I'm Clay from Texas. I just traded my '04 Ranger Edge 4x4, 4.0 SOHC, auto with 254,000 miles on it last Wednesday for an '02 F-150 2wd.

 

with the automatic it might have high gearing (like 3.08's) which would certianly make it seem doggy. my ohv version of the 4.0 has the manual with 3.73's and isnt too bad performance wise. its no mustang, but will get up and go pretty well. check things like your air filter, when you get a used truck its hard to tell what kind of upkeep its gotton. also if the new tires on it are bigger than what it came with, that could make it seem less powerfull than it should be.

 

Is it possible with that many miles the cat is plugged up?

 

my experiance with a plugged cat wasnt so much a loss in power as it was not being able to go as fast. '82 fairmont sport coupe, 200 I-6, one day it wouldnt do much over 60, then it wouldnt do 50. getting there seemed about the same (it was no quick car to begin with) gutted the cat and it was back to normal. the exhaust smelled real hot too with the cat plugged.

 

Hey all, thanks for all the replies. I just got around to changing the oil the other day. It seemed way past due.

The tires are oversized so that may be some of it.

I ran the codes for the CEL and it came back with P0401 and P1401. Which seems to be more of emission issue that performance affector I think.

Hopefully I'll have the time soon to do the other maintenance needed. It is a 2nd vehicle at the moment.

What kind of mpg can I expect from this ranger? Should it get 15 in town and 20 hwy? Kind of sad that a fullsize truck will do that.

 

The motor does say SOHC on it if that makes any difference.

 

may just be a combination of things, 200K miles, bigger tires than the gearing was setup for, possible need of maintenence. from what ive read/heard the 4.0 ohc gets better fuel milage than the older ohv versions. my ohv got 19 at very best, mostly around 17. ive heard of the ohc's getting 20-21 reguarly. whats odd is that ive ive heardof explorers gettting slightly better milage than a ranger with the same engine/trans/gearing&tire size setup. -that makes no sence to me, both are as areodynamic, if anything the explorer would weigh more. your codes could affect performance even if it just is emmisons related, you could just need a oxygen sensor, its worth clearing that problem up and seeing how it affects milage/performance.

 

That o2 sensor issue is very common, I would definitly look into that cause that is the same code I pull every time. It is running too lean, the O2 sensor says to the computer that its getting too much fuel and not enough air so it trims it and whatnot from what I understand. I am an IDI Diesel guy(84 6.9 in my signature) but drove my ranger for 3 years when I was in high school.