Air Conditioning
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Air Conditioning
I have a couple questions regarding my air condition in my truck. It’s a 2001 f350 7.3L. When driving the truck on the freeway, up a hill, or continually pressing down hard on the skinny pedal is the only time I can get cold air to blow through the vents. As soon as I take my foot off the skinny pedal, warm or outside air temperature blows throughout the truck. Then I hammer down on the skinny pedal again and I get 2 to 3 seconds of cold air or however long I hold the skinny pedal down for. This sounds like it is backwards to me. This also makes city driving a PITA because it is always warm, not to mention I am in So Cal in the desert where it is constantly 110+ outside. Does this ring any bells to you? Where do you think I should start? Thanks.
Lee
Lee
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From: La La Land
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Freshman User
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Pop,
Thank you very much for those instructions. The air gap was about double what it should be. Before I corrected the problem and the truck was on and a/c on the compressor would kick on and shut off every 10 seconds or so. So, I followed your steps and ended up taking out one shim (o-ring looken thing from the compressor plate). I took that one out and put everything back and drove around the block in the city traffic for about 10 min and everything worked like a charm. And let me tell yout he temperature outside was 110+. Thank you for your quick response and guidance. I really appreciate it. Now Hopefully I can help out the next member with a probelm.
Lee
Thank you very much for those instructions. The air gap was about double what it should be. Before I corrected the problem and the truck was on and a/c on the compressor would kick on and shut off every 10 seconds or so. So, I followed your steps and ended up taking out one shim (o-ring looken thing from the compressor plate). I took that one out and put everything back and drove around the block in the city traffic for about 10 min and everything worked like a charm. And let me tell yout he temperature outside was 110+. Thank you for your quick response and guidance. I really appreciate it. Now Hopefully I can help out the next member with a probelm.
Lee
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Lee,
Stick around FTE. It's a pretty-tight-knit community that really KNOWS these trucks.
Something wrong with the truck? SOMEBODY here will recognize your symptoms and correctly diagnose your problem, along with instructions to get it fixed.
Welcome aboard! You've found a good place if you're a 7.3 SuperDuty owner.
Pop
Stick around FTE. It's a pretty-tight-knit community that really KNOWS these trucks.
Something wrong with the truck? SOMEBODY here will recognize your symptoms and correctly diagnose your problem, along with instructions to get it fixed.
Welcome aboard! You've found a good place if you're a 7.3 SuperDuty owner.
Pop
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From: Gary,Indiana
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: La La Land
The clutch HAS to be able to cycle. The question is the rate that it does. That changes depending on temperatures and pressures.
You really need gauges to check the switch operations. You also need to know the proper operation and pressures at which they should operate.
When the compressor discharge pressure hits approximately 450 psi, the switch contacts open, disengaging the A/C compressor clutch. When the pressure drops to approximately 260 psi, the contacts close again to allow the compressor clutch to engage. This is the high-pressure "safety" switch.
The low pressure "cycling" switch should open when the pressure drops to 21-24 psi, and close when pressure raises to 38-46 psi.
The accumulator has a filter built into it.
For a good explanation of gauge readings, see this:
Adding Freon to Car AC - Gauge Readings Explained
Pop
You really need gauges to check the switch operations. You also need to know the proper operation and pressures at which they should operate.
When the compressor discharge pressure hits approximately 450 psi, the switch contacts open, disengaging the A/C compressor clutch. When the pressure drops to approximately 260 psi, the contacts close again to allow the compressor clutch to engage. This is the high-pressure "safety" switch.
The low pressure "cycling" switch should open when the pressure drops to 21-24 psi, and close when pressure raises to 38-46 psi.
The accumulator has a filter built into it.
For a good explanation of gauge readings, see this:
Adding Freon to Car AC - Gauge Readings Explained
Pop
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,951
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From: Gary,Indiana
The clutch HAS to be able to cycle. The question is the rate that it does. That changes depending on temperatures and pressures.
You really need gauges to check the switch operations. You also need to know the proper operation and pressures at which they should operate.
When the compressor discharge pressure hits approximately 450 psi, the switch contacts open, disengaging the A/C compressor clutch. When the pressure drops to approximately 260 psi, the contacts close again to allow the compressor clutch to engage. This is a high-pressure "safety" switch.
The low pressure (cycling) switch should open when the pressure drops to 21-24 psi, and close when pressure raises to 38-46 psi.
The accumulator has a filter built into it.
For a good explanation, see this:
Adding Freon to Car AC - Gauge Readings Explained | Denlors Auto Blog
Pop
You really need gauges to check the switch operations. You also need to know the proper operation and pressures at which they should operate.
When the compressor discharge pressure hits approximately 450 psi, the switch contacts open, disengaging the A/C compressor clutch. When the pressure drops to approximately 260 psi, the contacts close again to allow the compressor clutch to engage. This is a high-pressure "safety" switch.
The low pressure (cycling) switch should open when the pressure drops to 21-24 psi, and close when pressure raises to 38-46 psi.
The accumulator has a filter built into it.
For a good explanation, see this:
Adding Freon to Car AC - Gauge Readings Explained | Denlors Auto Blog
Pop
Once again you have been very helpful. By the time I work though these a/c problems I won't need it. LOL But at least it be nice to know that it is one less problem my old truck would have.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 547
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Found this thread snd thought I'd ask my question here-
My AC just went out today, while my engine was running. No previous issues, just stopped blowing cold air suddenly.
Looking under the hood, the compressor plate will turn a couple of revolutions, then stop, and there is a squeaking sound. It will then repeat the few turns, stop, and on and on.
Is this something that would be fixed by adjusting the air gap, or is the compressor officially gone at this stage?
My AC just went out today, while my engine was running. No previous issues, just stopped blowing cold air suddenly.
Looking under the hood, the compressor plate will turn a couple of revolutions, then stop, and there is a squeaking sound. It will then repeat the few turns, stop, and on and on.
Is this something that would be fixed by adjusting the air gap, or is the compressor officially gone at this stage?
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TEXAS
Thanks Pop for the priceless information. My symptons led me to the coil thinking maybe it's getting weak. After reading your prognosis I checked my air gap, adjusted as you explained and ............. Voila! Problem solved! Thank you from a faithful diy.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 6
From: Ventura co.
NICE.. Thanks Pop. My AC has not been getting very cold. So today i did the Ac water line mod to try and help with it. Now i find this post. I just checked it and it's 44 thou out. So im going to remove 24 thou..
Thanks again People for reviving the old post
Thanks again People for reviving the old post
