E4OD Shift Shaft Removal/Install Help!?
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Lead Driver
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
E4OD Shift Shaft Removal/Install Help!?
Does anyone know how to remove the shift shaft (shaft the the MLPS sensor sits on and linkage mounts to) and install a new one?
I'm really not wanting to tear the whole transmission apart and learn as I go. Any tips? Thanks
I'm really not wanting to tear the whole transmission apart and learn as I go. Any tips? Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Cleveland, TN
I'm not sure on the E4OD but I would think it would be about the same as a C6.. On the C6 you had to drop the valve body to give the shaft room to slide into the trans case..
Basically you dropped the valve body, removed the mlps/neutral safety switch (older models) then take the nuts off pull the shaft out from inside the trans.. Back when they had the kick down lever, it came loose from inside and slid out of the shift lever to the outside..
Basically you dropped the valve body, removed the mlps/neutral safety switch (older models) then take the nuts off pull the shaft out from inside the trans.. Back when they had the kick down lever, it came loose from inside and slid out of the shift lever to the outside..
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Lead Driver
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
Hmm ok thanks. Is there anything involved with dropping the valve body or can I just pull it out swap the shaft and put valve body back in? I.e. no springs or ***** falling out...
Postmaster
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From: Cleveland, TN
Again I have NOT had an E4OD apart, but have had quite a few C6's, C4's and older stuff in various degrees of dis assembly.. On the old C6 the valve body came as an assembly, there was a bolt or two (maybe more) on top that had to be taken out to separate it IIRC..
It's been about 10-12 years since I've been under a vehicle except to change oil or just give it a look-see.. And the old memory ain't what it used to be..
I hope some one who knows for sure comes along soon and corrects my mistakes...
It's been about 10-12 years since I've been under a vehicle except to change oil or just give it a look-see.. And the old memory ain't what it used to be..
I hope some one who knows for sure comes along soon and corrects my mistakes...
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Lead Driver
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
Ok thanks again! I don't have to do this right away but I couldn't find any answers searching. Btw Im doing this to install a floor shifter. It requires a new shifter shaft. Im doing a how-to thread so everyone else has a reference if they wanna do one as well.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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Can`t help much but going on exploded views, it would seem that the manual shaft is threaded at both ends. It would look like if the internal linkage was disconnected and the nut removed, then the shaft could slide outwards. However I don`t know what access to the nut is like from inside the case.
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Lead Driver
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
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Lead Driver
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
...stupid phone. Anyway. I have the new one and yes its threaded at both ends but I don't know what its threaded to or the space around it as Lazy K mentioned. If I have to drop the valve body might as well look into a replacement and see if its worth upgrading while its out.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Cleveland, TN
There should be some flat spots on the sides that keeps the arm from moving on the shaft then threads for a nut.. If the shaft is not stepped, (larger on one end) (and big end going inside) you may have gotten lucky.. You might be able to remove the nuts and pull the shaft out of the linkage and out of the case in one motion..
I don't have a drawing so all I have is reference to C6's and memory.. (Boy, am I screwed)
I don't have a drawing so all I have is reference to C6's and memory.. (Boy, am I screwed)
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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Yes, the threads are for a nut that keeps the internal shift lever on the shaft. I`ll try to find an exploded view.
https://www.wittrans.com/Schematic.a...00&Schematic=4 The manual shaft is part No. 991-4.
https://www.wittrans.com/Schematic.a...00&Schematic=4 The manual shaft is part No. 991-4.
Last edited by Lazy K; Sep 2, 2011 at 03:26 PM. Reason: more info
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Lead Driver
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
Ok thanks alot. I wish I had a link or part number for that e4od pan with a drain plug..I hate not having one. And $300 for an aftermarket one is crazy. Ill drill and tap mine before that.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Cleveland, TN
You might check NAPA or maybe rock auto and look for a replacement weld in engine oil part.. It's rectangular/oval so the ends can be tacked to the inside of the oil pan, there is no reason you couldn't drill a hole and tack weld (might have to go to a welder) the plate in then insert plug.. Sure as heck a LOT cheaper.. Finding the weld in nut will be the hard part, since you'll already have the pan off the trans..
I've done this before but for the life of me I can't remember where I got the goodies. I'm almost sure it was NAPA, but it was MANY moons ago.
I've done this before but for the life of me I can't remember where I got the goodies. I'm almost sure it was NAPA, but it was MANY moons ago.
Post Fiend
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Search: transmission pan drain | Oil Drain Plug | AutoZone.com You could go with something like this or, as White says, get a weld in one.