1998 E250 4.2 161k, I'm the 4th owner it started a fleet vehicle and then was treated normally by the next two owners. That is to say driven and fixed only when it stopped running.

I've cleared up a few issues thanks in no small part to this forum. Now I've got a hard starting when cold issue and a slight rough idle. Once running it runs great and restart fine when hot. The dash gauge hardly moves off of cold. I'm ready to just through some parts at it, I'd call it good money spent up to $200. But I'd rather know what I was doing and why though just to be sure I don't run out of 'extra' money.

I think my 'no start' situation is ECT and ACT related. I've seen some good post and greystreak92's is prominent. My trouble is that I'm having trouble identifying and locating components. Ive got both the Haynes manual for the vehicle and the OBD2 Techbook. I'm an experienced non professional mechanic but a 'VW guy'.

I've got some tools; OBD2 reader, multimeter, NOID light, pressure gauges for both vacuum and fuel pressure, ...

I'd buy another manual if one is highly recommended for specific information like how to find this or that in the engine bay. A link to a web site with diagrams and pictures would be good.

Thanks

BTW my VW is a 92 G60 Corrado, factory supercharger replaced with a efficient after market Lysholm, fun and FAST. The van gets about the same MPG

 

The day I bought this vehicle I put in some fuel system cleaner, , and the hard starting was occurring. But not too bad. I ran the cleaner out of the tanks and the hard starting got a lot worse. Now I've correlated these in retrospective but of course causation is up in the air still.

Last night I 'Seafoamed' via the brake booster vacuum line. A double dose; one 6 oz dose then once the smoke diminished another. The remainder of the can went in the tank. (1/4 of a 32 gallon)

This morning the hard starting issue was less critical. On the third attempt it started though ran poorly for a minute.

The previous owner had installed new plugs and wires. I doubt he checked the gap and I've read two posts here stating that the pre-gapped plugs may not be gapped to the specification for the 4.2.

I'll check that later today. But even if the plugs are the only cause of my hard starting issue the dash gauge is not displaying accurately so that will be dealt with.

FYI I need to be fast and stealthy with my mecanical work. I'm staying with friends and the HOA rules are the most restrictive I have ever been aware of. Essentially you can clean your vehicle and check fluid levels but little else is tolerated. And no commercial vehicles are permitted. I've stripped the shelving units, tool box, and ladder racks. My work use of the van is computer/netowrk repair so the plumber's rigging had to go. I'm backing away from my carpentry and installing work but will keep the sweet cast aluminum triple ladder rack. It is so light! I'm a rock climbing bum so I am taking this van on the road; I take classes full time on the Internet and work when I can. In 3.5 years I'll have a masters and then back to 'real' work. BTW I'm 46 and going to college for what is in effect my third career.

Just an update...

 

The easier starting from adding seafoam to my fuel was a mistake. It won't start today.

In the engine rebuild section of the Haynes manual photo 7.16 shows both the ECT and the gauge sending unit. So I should be able to locate them once I get a chance to take a look.

Autozone offers an ECT for about $20 so I'll get one to have on hand. I'm questioning my reference voltage though and will be certain to check that. I cleaned up one engine ground point but think locating all and cleaning them makes good sense at this point.

 

I was planning to take care of the ECT and CHT sensors when I was doing the intake gaskets but had to try replacing them just to get it to start to park in the garage. Replaced the ECT and cleaned the connectors and still have my crank no start.

The crank no start is getting much worse, last week it would start within 10 attempts. It does not seem that it is hard to turn over and my fuel pump is starting and the exhaust smells of unburnt fuel. HOA prohibits vehicle maintenance, even in a garage but they let that slide. So... I'm having a tough time checking this out and working on it as it sits in the driveway.

The sensors are located in the front of the engine, left of the center. The ECT is left most of the two. I used a deep well 19 mm socket with a low profile attachment to allow the socket to be turned with a wrench (Harbor Freight). I'll pick up a CHT soon.

This link provides a good diagram. (Edit: the picture from Jbrew looks good and is useful, but the diagrams posted seem to conflict each other, both show the sensor(computer) and the sender(gauge) but they are not in agreement identifying which is what)


engine coolant temperature sensor - F150online Forums

 

hi, i would check the condition of the battery as it needs full power to provide the computer and supply sparks for the plugs. it will in- effect rob the power from the computer to provide full power to the starter so it may be the cause of un-burnt fuel . just a thought. bokker.

 

Thanks bokker. The extended attempts to start have not been good for the battery, so it is on the charger now. I'll leave it alone for a few hours. I'm reading my Hayne's manuals trying to figure out if the ECT is for the computer or the gauge. I thought it was for the computer.

 

No surprise, when I pulled my plugs the number three was coolant fouled. Plugs cleaned and gapped; van fired right up drive the last 20 feet into the garage to wait for the intakes gasket work. wrong plugs and wrong gap

The gasket set should be in Wednesday afternoon. I'll busy my self with tear down work and maybe install some stereo equipment from my collection of what was in other cars. Oh and scraping the rust out of the back. My hot van buying tip is not to buy and old HVAC or plumbing van. Rust and filth a plenty, though I did score an unused box of SS hose clamps, bath tub spigot, drain tail pieces, and other such things that were wedged behind the cabinets.

 

Um don't know if this is the correct way to do this, but I am blond! I have a 2003 King Ranch 4X4 deisel dually and it will not start! I replaced the batteries, one cell was dead on one, still nothing. Fuel filters still nothing. Is there a crank sensor or something along those lines I can try? Please help!

 

I've got little experience with diesels, search for "no start" and "hard start" in the diesel forum. The title from the home page and then the link below that. I'll look later on but now I've got to get to it or I'll have to walk back to Texas.

Super Duty & Heavy Duty (245 Viewing)
1999 to current Ford F250, F350, F450 and F550 Super Duty with diesel V8 and gas V8 and V10 engines

Super Duty & Heavy Duty - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

Thank you so much! I look forward to talking later!

 

quick idea about the diesel no start. Remove and then observe the condition of your glow plugs in the same way spark plugs are checked for residue to indicate the general health of your motor.

YMMV and be aware this is a BAD idea, a good idea is to buy new ones. Glow plugs can be cleaned... I've done it on military vehicles. As I inprocessed to my new NG unit I volunteered to work during the week to get ready for an inspection. We had Humvees and CUCVs 'dead lined' for no start and poor performance. We would fail if we did not have more vehicles on line. So... long story short I fixed some and the mechanics were shocked to see me fall in with a line platoon for weekend drill. They thought I was a mechanic too. These were the 'technicians', full time professional mechanics at the unit who attended drill as National Guardsmen. They were sorry to see me go and I was more than flattered... long time ago

You have to be gentle with them both the abrasive and solvent used. Water and a green scrubby pad... milder type of oven cleaner then hot water... I'd have to think this over after sleep and coffee. Lots of little maintenance things you can do and while you do these things check for other problems as you work.

 

The diagrams in the Haynes manual and the online ALLDATA manual are opposite of each other in identifying the computer sensor and the gauge sender for coolant temperature.