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Can any one with a 85 f250 460 motor chase the stator wire on your alternator and then let me know where it goes.some how the wire came unpluged and I noticed it when I changed out the alt
It depends on if the truck has ammeter and oil pressure gauges or altenator and Oil warning lamps. Also if the truck has internal or external voltage regulators, or if it's got EFI or carb.
With warning lamps the stator wire goes to the external voltage regulator as well as powering the electric choke on carbed models.
With ammeter and oil gauges, it just goes to the choke on carbed models.
I have conected the stator wire to the elec choke and the problem there is the wire gets hot.Im getting a full 12volts at the choke with key on truck running.The truck has a performance holley 4brrl.Could it be possible I bought a bad alternator.The old alternator had iternal regulator in it and the new one does not have one in it,but both alternators wired the same.Im going into town to have that alternator checked to make sure its not defective.Getting tired of running the truck off just a battery.
You can't mix and match internal and external alternators without a re-wire of the alternator harness. Get the correct alternator for your original wiring.
i could have misread the label on the bad alternator about the voltage reg.I bought a new regulator the mounts to the passenger side fender.Whats the voltage suppose to be at the elctric choke?With the key on I get 12volts.I heard the the stator doesnt use that high of voltage
i could have misread the label on the bad alternator about the voltage reg.I bought a new regulator the mounts to the passenger side fender.Whats the voltage suppose to be at the elctric choke?With the key on I get 12volts.I heard the the stator doesnt use that high of voltage
It should be ZERO volts key ON, engine not running. The stator idle output will be less than full output of the ALT. It really depends on how your meter interprets the wave form, but expect 7-10 volts DC. You can also use a test light, it should be dimmer than across the battery. Jim
Franklin2 & Jim are correct - you can't mix & match alternators, and I've come to expect 7-8 volts at the stator with the alternator turning (engine running).
I get 7 volts out of the stator wire.WHen turn the key to the on position truck not running I get 12 volts at the choke,must have a short somewhere.Is the another way to get that wire hooked up possibly at the stator terminal on the voltage regulator?Will the alternator charge without the wire hooked up?
One of the problems with these trucks is the way the alternator hooks into the wiring. The main alternator output goes up to the rest of the wiring through a shunt for the ammeter. Everything on the truck goes through this harness, Unless you got a non-integral regulator harness from a 80-86 truck you probably have something not connected right. If anything interrupts the connection between the alternator output and the point at which the regulator picks up its voltage signal, the alternator will go full charge.
Get the information on the alternator (model, rated output, PN and brand if reman or new replacement) I have most wiring diagrams available to me.
Truck has original wiring in it with external voltage reg with a 65 amp alternator.the alt has three terminals as labeled field which is hook to the field terminal on regulator and there is the battery terminal which goes to the battery and last but not least the staor wire.All my problems began when I went to a mud run bogging thru the mud.MY truck droped dead in the middle of a mud hole.I shorted out the old alternator and had to replace it.I even replaced the regulator.There's not suppose to be any votage at the choke with the key on but when I turn the key on I get 12volts at the choke.Did Something happen to the wiring when the old alternator shorted.
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