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Don't have the manual in front of me so I can't tell you what page the adjustment details are on, but the adjustment is simple.
When looking down behind the lamp assembly, you will see a round shape device on the back of the assembly. Using a number 2 Phillips screwdriver you simply turn the screw to adjust up or down.
is that what you would do?? Just adjust them down some? Its perfect when not towing but if there is a slight load this 250 drops.
Depends. If it squats so much that you need to adjust, maybe a few inches lower will stop the flashing and still leave enough forward lighting when you are not towing.
The other alternative is to airbag...
I would try the former before doing the airbags. How much tongue weight is this "little trailer" putting on the truck? I can't believe a few hundred pounds will cause that much sagging.
You don't always need an airbag. A weight distributing hitch works wonders. When I tow a 24' enclosed trailer weighing in at 10K lbs, my truck sits perfectly level with the weight distributing hitch bars tensioned properly.
You don't always need an airbag. A weight distributing hitch works wonders. When I tow a 24' enclosed trailer weighing in at 10K lbs, my truck sits perfectly level with the weight distributing hitch bars tensioned properly.
I agree with Jimax. I pull a custom enclosed car carrier with a full carpentry shop and have no problem using a weight distributing hitch and you have a safer, steadier ride. With out the WD the rear drops about 2 1/2".
Another thing you may want to do before changing anything is to follow the procedure in the manual to see if your lights are aligned correctly to begin with. There is a chance that maybe they are a bit high already and that the trailer is putting them over the top.