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Well I'm assuming, because whenever I work it hard, it get hotter, like the gauge. Also like said before it'll move up a tad bit when a/c is on/off.
I've noticed the truck runs alot cooler and it doesn't even generate alot of heat anymore. Can hear when the water pump engaged when I first replaced everything. (Radiator, thermostat, water pump, both hoses)
Last edited by Alec94F150XL; Aug 29, 2011 at 08:06 PM.
Reason: grammar
Just a suggestion, My old Ford did the same thing and it was my EGR valve sticking. When I shut the engine off, it took awhile to fully close. I don't know why it did that. It could be jamming up, or the Vacuum regulator for it could be failing. I remember hearing a whistling noise too I just blocked mine off and never bothered checking it. That is like a big Vacuum leak and will cause sluggish low powered driving and bad/stalling idle.
Just a suggestion, My old Ford did the same thing and it was my EGR valve sticking. When I shut the engine off, it took awhile to fully close. I don't know why it did that. It could be jamming up, or the Vacuum regulator for it could be failing. I remember hearing a whistling noise too I just blocked mine off and never bothered checking it. That is like a big Vacuum leak and will cause sluggish low powered driving and bad/stalling idle.
But I can turn my truck off then on and it'll run perfect and idle perfect. It's got me stumped! In one of the post a guy said the TPS resets every time you start it up. So I think it might be that.
I don't know, I'm really thinking of selling it honestly. But if I can fix this problem within the month, I'll keep it. I'd hate to part with it.
You could have a funky computer...I replaced mine and had codes come up that were never there with the old one. Maybe your computer is at fault with the on/off thing you do. Swap in a reman if you try it, cost about 120. for me, Car-quest...try taking off the battery neg cable for a half hour.
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