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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Typical Code thread. Need help, please.

Old Aug 27, 2011 | 04:15 PM
  #1  
Bankrupter's Avatar
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Typical Code thread. Need help, please.

I retrieved these by grounding the STI only

Didnt jump the STO to the SIG RTN. Does this matter ?

Codes as follows:
KoEo- 111 111
______________________________________

KoEr - 538- Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error???

What I do wrong here?

536 - Brake on/off circuit failure?? Switch not activated during test ?? More info ?

632- and some of what I was after... OD switch not changing state...

I have many E4Od issues none are triggering codes and it sucks.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 05:13 PM
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I have no idea what failing to jumper the pins would do, I have always followed the instructions HERE.

Did you do the "step on the brakes/turn the wheel/punch the gas" stuff?
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Bankrupter
I retrieved these by grounding the STI only

Didnt jump the STO to the SIG RTN. Does this matter ?

Codes as follows:
KoEo- 111 111
______________________________________

KoEr - 538- Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error???

What I do wrong here?

536 - Brake on/off circuit failure?? Switch not activated during test ?? More info ?

632- and some of what I was after... OD switch not changing state...

I have many E4Od issues none are triggering codes and it sucks.

the 536 and 632 is caused from not not pressing the brake pedal (536) and not turning the OD switch on and off (632) after the engine code flash out at the start of the KOER test. Those codes aren't indicating anything bad happening.

This is how you do it.

Hook up your jumper (like you did)

Start the engine.

Watch for "engine ID Code(3 flashes indicate six cylinder, 4 flashes indicate 8 cylinder)"

Right after that code flashes out, you need to press the brake pedal, press the Overdrive button 2 time (like you turn OD on then off) and wiggle the steering wheel (that checks the power steering pressure switch that is only on 5.0 engines. If you don't have one,you don't need to move the steering wheel. If you move the wheel anyway, it won't hurt at all) *You skipped this procedure which is what gave you the codes 536 and 632*

After that, you need to wait for a single quick flash of the check engine light. Once it flashes, the need to press the gas pedal to the floor quickly once.

Then your codes come out

hope this helps
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bankrupter

I have many E4Od issues none are triggering codes and it sucks.

Had a similar problem, no codes...turned out that the computer was faulty
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 05:40 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Slip ford man
Had a similar problem, no codes...turned out that the computer was faulty
I second that. My computer had bad capacitors in it that caused harsh shifting and never once did I have a code.

Another thing I wanna add, My trans had shift issues and it turned out it was caused by a corrosion on the MLPS sensor. I cleaned it, put electrical grease on it and it was all good since then.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 09:06 PM
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From: North Central MA
Originally Posted by hoss khaos
the 536 and 632 is caused from not not pressing the brake pedal (536) and not turning the OD switch on and off (632) after the engine code flash out at the start of the KOER test. Those codes aren't indicating anything bad happening.

This is how you do it.

Hook up your jumper (like you did)

Start the engine.

Watch for "engine ID Code(3 flashes indicate six cylinder, 4 flashes indicate 8 cylinder)"

Right after that code flashes out, you need to press the brake pedal, press the Overdrive button 2 time (like you turn OD on then off) and wiggle the steering wheel (that checks the power steering pressure switch that is only on 5.0 engines. If you don't have one,you don't need to move the steering wheel. If you move the wheel anyway, it won't hurt at all) *You skipped this procedure which is what gave you the codes 536 and 632*

After that, you need to wait for a single quick flash of the check engine light. Once it flashes, the need to press the gas pedal to the floor quickly once.

Then your codes come out

hope this helps
LOL, yes I did none of this and never read about it till now

Thanks !

The motor did like a two stage ramp up on its own. I assume this is normal.?.

...
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 09:08 PM
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Yes that's normal. It'll go crazy a few times and make a few noises. It bothered me the first time I did it haha
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 12:04 AM
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From: North Central MA
632 remains other two are now gone. I did push the switch twice for the test but have known it don't work anyways. Lights up but wont stay on the off position unless held in. Trans wont go into OD w/o dropping it into 2 for a sec.

Pulled the valve cover to fix a leak and found a acorn sitting on the head, thought to self -=well this is just lovely!=-

If any one knows of a good switch replacement thread pleas link me. Hurricane should be here soon, so I got to get this kite ready now bbl ...
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 12:14 AM
  #9  
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hoss khaos
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Originally Posted by Bankrupter
632 remains other two are now gone. I did push the switch twice for the test but have known it don't work anyways. Lights up but wont stay on the off position unless held in. Trans wont go into OD w/o dropping it into 2 for a sec.

Pulled the valve cover to fix a leak and found a acorn sitting on the head, thought to self -=well this is just lovely!=-

If any one knows of a good switch replacement thread pleas link me. Hurricane should be here soon, so I got to get this kite ready now bbl ...

It's easy to replace the switch. All you need to do is pop off the top ring with a flat head screwdriver and the button pulls out. Replace the new one, and pop the top ring back in. Sometimes you get a new ring with a new button.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 12:24 AM
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From: North Central MA
Originally Posted by hoss khaos
It's easy to replace the switch. All you need to do is pop off the top ring with a flat head screwdriver and the button pulls out. Replace the new one, and pop the top ring back in. Sometimes you get a new ring with a new button.
Hope I get the ring ... mines long gone. Nice to hear its simple. Thanks for your fast replies, Hoss!
 
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