1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

66 F250 Enging Trans Swap

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  #16  
Old 08-28-2011, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RJP66F100
Never seen an FE described as "light".....lol
Originally Posted by 66CustomCab
I was smiling at that too, unless of course you think 700 lbs is light.
Heh, OK gents you got me there. However I do not consider a big block that weighs only 625 - 670 lbs heavy (depending on model). A 429/460 weighs about 720 lbs in comparison and a 351W weighs about 525 lbs. FE motors really get a bad rap for being boat anchors, but in reality in the late 50s and 60s they were revolutionary, offering thin wall castings, cross bolted mains, and deep skirts for piston stability. There is a reason Nascar outlawed the FEs. Ford was light years ahead of GM and Chrysler in the early years in the casting department.

I like the FE motors, they are tough, make good torque, and fairly simple to work on. I dont care for the valve train in them as unless you put alot of money into it, you really limit yourself in RPMs (pushrod motors), and the way the intake is under the valve covers and has the pushrods going through it.
 
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Old 08-29-2011, 03:00 PM
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Hey Fritz thanks for the info, I do need to get an FE building book.
 
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Old 08-29-2011, 04:58 PM
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If your patient and savvy, you can still find 428's out there, however it may take a little extra work. I bought a '64 Galaxie with a rebuilt 66 Tbird 428 for $3700, swapped in a 390 and sold the car for $4200 on Ebay. Free 428! I just recently bought a 74 F250 with a 68 PI 428 for $1600. I'm getting ready to sell the F250 with a 360 that I swapped in. They are out there, you just have to be willing to do a little legwork to get them.
 
  #19  
Old 08-30-2011, 01:31 AM
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Tilerocket, some years ago, Chet Herbert of Chet Herbert Cams down in Amaheim, designed and cut a cam for me for a 390 FE motor. It was designed for the FE motor. It will work with the 352, 390, 428 or any of the other FE blocks. Chet herbert has been designing and cutting cams for a # of years and he is one of the top cam grinder. After he cut the cam for me, he put it in his file. The # is G3N. I'm sure he will still have it. There are many other brand cams out there, so I'm sure you will find one that will you. The G3N was designed for the application.
Below is the specs on the cam and a list of build items that should allow your truck to ripp the tires off your wheels but will also allow you somewhat decent mpg on the highway. This combination works. I know of a couple people that have used this combo and are very happy.

G3N cam
Intake - lift 500; duration @ full 275; duration @ 50 is 215
Exhaust - lift 525; duration @ full 285; duration @ 50 is 225
300 lb. valve springs
Quick 'bleed off' lifters. (Rhodes or Crane) both are good.
C6 with a 2600 to 2800 stall speed torque converter. (Needed when running tall gears.)
3.00 or 2.75 rear gears.
Performer manifold
780 Holley or different brand of close to the same CFM.
Stock manifolds or (headers if you prefer)
2.5" exhaust pipes from manifolds to mufflers and 2" pipes from mufflers to rear bumper.
Remember, running headers will eliminate most of your back pressure which will effect
your low end torque unless you really jump on it. I don't believe headers are needed
unless you just have to have em. You can always ad them in later if ya really want them.

Of course, tire height/size can change your outcome but if you stick to something close to original height, you can expect some exciting performance.
Fritz
 
  #20  
Old 08-30-2011, 06:09 PM
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Hey Im from SoCal where are you from? That would be a great swap.
 
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