My 2001 Ford Escape has 49,000 miles on it. I don't drive it often, but I do make a point to start it up and run around the block a couple of times each week. Today, I took the car out and it ran like a top. I came home, turned off the engine went in the house and when I came back to put it into the garage, the car would not start. The battery seems strong, but the engine just cranks and cranks and won't catch. I am not able to fix myself and don't mind taking it to a Ford garage, but would like to have an idea of what the problem could be ahead of time. Any thoughts?

 

Start with the basics:

What does the THEFT light do when the key is turned from OFF to RUN?

 

Thanks projectSHO89. I tried to start the car again this morning, paying attention to the theft light. The light is blinking when I first get into the car and when I turn the key from off to on, it briefly glows steady for a split second, then goes dark.

 

The anti-theft test suggested above was a very good first check, as the PATS, passive anti-theft system, will disable the ignition if it doesn't detect the proper key being used. Your's seems to be operating properly.

Two general areas of problems occur 'instantaneously', where there weren't any symptoms before. Fuel and ignition. Given that it ran great a minute ago, and won't run at all now, the general condition of the engine, such as valves, cam, lifters, rings, pistons, crankshaft, and all the other 'moving parts' is expected to be 'good', so we go to the things that can make an engine stop 'right now'.
Fuel pressure or volume can cause no-start. I would check that the pump runs [it's under the rear seat on the drivers side. There is a removable panel for access.] when you turn the key from OFF to ON. It should run for 3-5 seconds with a pronounced whine. Volume problems would mostly appear when you go to accelerate or climb a hill or go real fast, all conditions where demand is higher. There is also a regulator that varies the pressure the pump develops by changing the amount of power fed to the pump.
Ignition problems can cause lack of spark, or spark at the wrong time. Your engine has a COP, coil on plug, system where each cylinder has its own coil, one for each spark plug. The computer provides a ground for the coils, and when it wants to fire the coil, it opens the circuit, removing the ground, causing the coil to generate 20k volts or so.
If the crankshaft sensor dies, or the cam sensor, the computer won't know 'when' to fire. If the computer dies, it won't provide and remove the ground as needed to cause fire. Most times, you won't have ALL of the COP elements die at one time, you would experience intermittent rough running if one of them was dying.
So that points to the more common elements, such as cam and crank position sensors or the computer itself.
If it were mine, I'd check for fuel pressure at the schrader valve that allows for connection of a pressure gauge. It looks like a valve stem on a tire. Depress the center pin, and you should get a squirt of fuel under pressure. If you don't get that, suspect the fuel pump relay or associated fuses. You would also check those if you don't get the short 'priming' run of the pump when you turn the key from Off to On.
If you have pressure, I'd check that the COPs are firing by removing one, and putting a spark plug into the boot, grounding the shell, and cranking the engine. It should spark.
tom

 

Thanks Tom. I appreciate the quick reply. I am having a mechanic from our company fleet look at the car today since I am definitely mechanically challenged.LOL. I will share both posts with him so he has a starting point. I'll get back to everyone once I know exactly what is going on.

Again, much thanks.
Allie B