**Update** Figured out my problems!!
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Off the cuff, it sounds like your dizzy is off by one tooth.
Take a look at this site for an explanation & pictures of EXACTLY where the rotor needs to be in relation to the cap.
Your symptoms also sound like an incorrect firing order (1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8) but I'm going to assume a PO never changed the cam in the replacement engine and that order is still correct.
You could remove the valve covers, rotate the engine around by hand and watch the valves in relation to the rotor's position if you want to verify that.
Have you ever reconnected the SPOUT? Your timing advance & FI are controlled by the computer, you merely set the initial timing and the computer takes it from there.
The computer can compensate to a degree but I don't know what that degree is.
The other possibility is stuck valves as was mentioned.
You could remove the valve covers and squirt/dump some ATF at the valve guides and into the oil, that's been known to unstick sticky valves.
Take a look at this site for an explanation & pictures of EXACTLY where the rotor needs to be in relation to the cap.
Your symptoms also sound like an incorrect firing order (1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8) but I'm going to assume a PO never changed the cam in the replacement engine and that order is still correct.
You could remove the valve covers, rotate the engine around by hand and watch the valves in relation to the rotor's position if you want to verify that.
Have you ever reconnected the SPOUT? Your timing advance & FI are controlled by the computer, you merely set the initial timing and the computer takes it from there.
The computer can compensate to a degree but I don't know what that degree is.
The other possibility is stuck valves as was mentioned.
You could remove the valve covers and squirt/dump some ATF at the valve guides and into the oil, that's been known to unstick sticky valves.
FTE Legend
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 37,887
Likes: 20
From: North Central Rural Sask.
Ive read through a ton of your posts regarding this problem, because i have/had a similar problem.
I dont know how much I can add to your problem, but I dumped some sea foam into the TB of my truck last night, and it cleared the popping/idling/stalling problem, untill the sea foam ran out.
That tells me I have a dirty fuel system, and I would suggest to you to check your fuel system all the way through as well.
I dont know how much I can add to your problem, but I dumped some sea foam into the TB of my truck last night, and it cleared the popping/idling/stalling problem, untill the sea foam ran out.
That tells me I have a dirty fuel system, and I would suggest to you to check your fuel system all the way through as well.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Well I am going to mess with the timing again today after I fix the blown trans line. I think I am going to try the 302 order just to see if they put a 302 cam in it when they rebuilt it. Are the two firing orders close enough to let the motor run, but badly? When I did the compression test every spark plug was black. Not wet, just black.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Well i changed the upper and lower intake gaskets today. Seemed to help with the idling and stalling issue. It now idles good, and seems to run okay, but its only pulling 14psi vacuum at idle. my mud truck is up around 22. I have all rubber vacuum lines on it that are all new so i'm thinking that there is no leak. When i rev the motor and it idles down, it no longer wants to stall. I took it up on the concrete to see if itd break a tire loose dripping in trans fluid, but it didnt even attempt it. Just say there and bogged kinda. Any ideas?? Still sound like the timings off?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
89 computer does not support the E4OD. Plus I had another 89 motor in this truck prior to this one and it ran fine.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Well guys and gals.... i figured it out.
And i feel like an idiot
Who would have thought that two bad (new) plug wires and two (new) motorcraft plugs would have made the motor run like it was only running on 6 cyls
Motor idles smoothly and will even spin the tires on pavement now. Thanks for everyones help
And i feel like an idiot
Who would have thought that two bad (new) plug wires and two (new) motorcraft plugs would have made the motor run like it was only running on 6 cyls
Motor idles smoothly and will even spin the tires on pavement now. Thanks for everyones help
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 464
Likes: 5
From: Redmond, WA USA
Glad you found it!
The other thing I've seen that can cause what you are describing is a bad harmonic balancer, where the rubber degrades and lets the outer ring (with the timing marks on it) rotate relative to the crank. This TOTALLY screws up the ignition timing of course since you are setting it by the marks on the ring which is out of position.
The other thing I've seen that can cause what you are describing is a bad harmonic balancer, where the rubber degrades and lets the outer ring (with the timing marks on it) rotate relative to the crank. This TOTALLY screws up the ignition timing of course since you are setting it by the marks on the ring which is out of position.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Thanks guys. This was a set of new autolite plugs and wires so I never thought to check it. I was fed up with the truck and took it to a buddy's house for him to look at. Sure enough he found one arching out and the other was just a bad plug. I about punched myself lol
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