Tranny Problems!!!!!!!
.......That explains why it stopped in the position you found it in and stuck in 4L.
.......I don't have the color codes for your model year.
.......Best to inspect the plug good for a contact issue and follow the harness back as far as you can for anything that might have happened.
.......Look at all the lead color codes and see wich one might feed the motor. Perhaps an Ohmmeter check on a lead to ground that appear to be an open circuit is the one your after.
......Then at the fuse box try to match the same color code.
......At that point see if there is voltage after the fuse.
......If yes the lead is open toward the case motor.
......If no voltage on the lead, the fuse holder has a problem.
......As a test, feed a 12 volt source to the motor lead with eveything in place and try out the 4x4 functions.
......If they work decide what you will do the effect a fix.
......Always fuse a new lead for safety.
......In these circuits, all the hardware is feed voltage through fuses.
......To operate the hardware, grounds are switched, not power leads, in nearly all cases.
......I think your good testing has pin-pointed it very well.
Good luck.
and to me i seem to have a problem with the electical and vacuum systems
or is one not alowing the other to function?
oh and both fuse boxes only go to 32 i think i have no higher numbers unless there is some hidden that i havent found
You have quite a different fuse layout from a regular F150.
However, it looks like fuse 17, engine bay, is the one you should look at for a power issue to the transfer case motor.
Get some way to check for power at the fuse supply side to see if there is an issue at that point, then look toward the motor side and make checks for being open.
Good luck.
if i then ground pin 9 it then clicks and rotates the motor the other direction
sooo from all the other info i have gathered and read it is sounding like the GEM might be bad
however seeing as my t case motor is really rusty and rough looking and a few wires are getting worn and it is cheaper than a GEM i will replace this weekend
then some more test before i search for a gem
When you go for a GEM module it has to be the exact unit and with the original program version because they are used in many different applications so the program version is per the original truck build.
Unless you find one from the same truck model and equippage, a dealer may have to program a new one.
What they will do is access a data base with the trucks VIN number and download the data or ID the data version your GEM needs to have loaded in.
Good luck.
Sorry it was such a chase but the learning/diagnostic curve comes at the same time and makes things more of a hassle.
Good luck on it.
i know how to engage the 4wd manually if need be and ill just switch the vac lines in front to lock the wheels but im hoping that i dont have to go most of the winter w o 4wd as i wont have the money for a gem swap until tax time in march unless i can as you say find a identical truck in the boneyard




