Thanks. I couldn't figure out any other way to get it all lined up and held in place long enough to reassemble it. Four hands might do it, if you could get that many shoulders in the footwell.

I remembered that a previous switch I had to replace (probably the original on my other '70) had the bracket spot-welded in place. I can only assume that the bracket became "optional" because the remaining part of the switch is also used elsewhere in land.

 

Is there any way to test if the head light switch is the problem in my instrument lights not working with the motor running and the switch in the middle L & R ?

I tested the 2amp fuse and it is good.

Don't want to spend the time replacing the head light switch if that is not the problem.

 

NumberDummy -- Thanks for posting the two pictures of the dash backside for all of us to see.

In looking at the lay out I see 7 bulbs that get their feed from the head light switch. Not to likely that all 7 bulbs burned out, more likely the problem is the light switch.

 

Well, yeah, but it isn't real convenient. You may end up laying upside-down in the Driver's footwell.

First of all, you shouldn't need the engine running - the instruments lights are supposed to work even without the key in the ignition - even with the truck completely off, the headlights, high beam indicator, instrument lights and courtesy lights all should work.

If you disconnect the connector from the switch, you'll want to test two pins on the switch with an ohmmeter, to see if the resistance between them changes when you rotate the switch ****.

The symbol for the rheostat and the two pins that connect to it are circled in red.
This diagram should represent the placement of the various pins on the switch, and you'll need to make sure you get the two correct pins.
The connector is shown here as a mirror image of the place where it plugs into the switch.
The part of the diagram that indicates where Wire #25 goes into the connector is the wrong side to test - instead, check the pins that are on the actual switch body.

 

Well after have a stroke a year ago I don't do under dash / foot well head stands.

On to plan two.

 

Stroke or no stroke, the footwell isn't a place where I'm comfortable.

Disconnect the battery.
Take the Instrument Cluster out if you need extra room to access the switch.
Remove the light switch and "bench test" it.
There's a spring-loaded button on top of the switch housing that will release the switch **** & shaft from the switch.
Once you remove the switch from the dash, re-insert the switch **** & shaft into the switch, so you can operate the rheostat during testing.

If it turns out that you need to replace the switch, you may find the replacement part includes a loose bracket - I glued mine in place with some JB Weld, in order for the spacer to stay put during re-assembly.

 

Thipdar --- Thanks for the information on removing the instrument cluster to get some room to work on the headlight switch. I tested all the fuses in the fuse block and that was about all I could down in the well.

Also with the instrument cluster out I can 12 volt jumper the instrument light bulb feed to see if they are all working.

 

Don't forget to jumper a ground wire also.

 

Thanks, I would have missed that for sure. I know I am doing a lot of testing and it still may be the light switch that needs replacing like most have said, but as a new owner all the testing is helping me understand this year electrical system. As I am retired I have nothing but time to work on this new "OLD" truck.

 

On my 70 f250, I have had a dash light rheostat problem as well. At one point I bent the little tab for more pressure on the spring for dimming the dash. That worked for a while, sometimes. I pulled the 2A fuse out and it was bad but I couldnt find 2A at orielleys and forgot about it. Then my headlights wouldnt work but high beams did. Last week I finally replaced the head light switch, which I had for over a year. Still no headlights. I just got finished pulling bulbs out and cleaning terminals. One of the terminals came apart on passenger headlight. I disconnected the grounds and cleaned those. Put one together and checked, still no headlights but still had high beams. Then I dropped driver side headlight while brushing the dust off the back. Got two headlight from oreilleys then found 2A fuse at NAPA. New headlights in and they still didnt work. Put in the damn 2A (short)fuse for my instrument panel and finally headlights. I didnt know panel and headlights were the same fuse. I know that was long winded but might accidentally help someone.

 

I guess that comes under the heading of "you got to fix what you know is broke first".