Need dual master cylinder kit
#1
Need dual master cylinder kit
HELP!!!! I am working on fixing up a 1966 Ford pickup 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive. And I was needing some part numbers for a dual master cylinder kit for this truck. Maybe even a power set up? Or just a company name or newer model info that will bolt up? It has fresh drum brake set up on all 4 corners. Thanks
#2
#4
if i remember right, look for a 73-79 f100 truck and pick the parts off of it but remember to get everything. i could be off alittle on the years but if you do a search on this site im sure you can find the right years. But im sure it is within those years if not close. someone will ring in if im wrong and let you know also, good luck
#5
Master cylinder kit
If you want an OEM kit or master, it will cost a few bucks.
Going to a dual chamber cylinder will not help if you don't add a vac. booster
or disc brakes.
If you go to autozone or anywhere like that you can get the kit for about 20 bucks or a reman roe the same price...
I was going to put a master cylinder off of an 85 F150 that I have in my garage, it bolts right up, until I read the attached article. Someone posted it here in the last few days but I can't find it.
This article explains it all, it convinced me to use the stocker because the pressure that is needed for all of them drums comes easier from a smaller bore cylinder and the increased size of the reservoir is only really to accommodate for the large demand of the caliper cylinder when the pads wear down.
Very large and detailed piece of verbiage that takes a while to soak up.
I like the Dual master cylinder bit with the balance bar like the NASCAR use.
I might work on that, one for each end of the vehicle, brilliant!
Brake Article© by Dean Oshiro
This is where I get a lot of my parts, they are fast and reasonable.
We Appreciate Your Patronage! : Ford Pickup Online Catalog - Page 28 : Obsolete & Classic Auto Parts Online Catalog
Going to a dual chamber cylinder will not help if you don't add a vac. booster
or disc brakes.
If you go to autozone or anywhere like that you can get the kit for about 20 bucks or a reman roe the same price...
I was going to put a master cylinder off of an 85 F150 that I have in my garage, it bolts right up, until I read the attached article. Someone posted it here in the last few days but I can't find it.
This article explains it all, it convinced me to use the stocker because the pressure that is needed for all of them drums comes easier from a smaller bore cylinder and the increased size of the reservoir is only really to accommodate for the large demand of the caliper cylinder when the pads wear down.
Very large and detailed piece of verbiage that takes a while to soak up.
I like the Dual master cylinder bit with the balance bar like the NASCAR use.
I might work on that, one for each end of the vehicle, brilliant!
Brake Article© by Dean Oshiro
This is where I get a lot of my parts, they are fast and reasonable.
We Appreciate Your Patronage! : Ford Pickup Online Catalog - Page 28 : Obsolete & Classic Auto Parts Online Catalog
#6
The main reason I was after the dual master cylinder setup was for saftey,, incase of a line faliure or busted wheel cylinder. Surely there is a newer Ford vehicle than a 66 that had drum brakes with a dual master cylinder that would fit this old truck? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
#7
I picked up my dual mc with a booster from a 72 f250. It looks to be a direct bolt in for my 65 f100 4x4 have not installed it yet. The donor truck had drum breaks at all 4 corners. I also got the proportion valve. I forgot to get the front line spliter for it. Ill go back and get that later or another one out of another donor truck.
Think you are looking for something like this.
Think you are looking for something like this.
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#9
I disagree very strongly with this statement, at least as it appears at face value:
"Going to a dual chamber cylinder will not help if you don't add a vac. booster or disc brakes."
A dual reservoir master cylinder will give you separate brake circuits, thus providing an emergency reserve if one circuit gives out. I agree power boosters are not required to make brakes work, but dual reservoir master cylinders were required by law in cars and pickups in '67 for this very reason of safety. Many of them from '67-'72 were manual, not power assisted and for all-drum applications as well. <br>
You are wise to upgrade your brakes, and it is far easier than you think with our trucks. Your best bet is to find a '73 - '79 F-100 or F-150 to use as a donor for parts. Most F-100s '68-'72 and some '73 - '79 came with non-power drum/drum applications, if that is really what you want. Most F-150s '73-'79 came with power disc brakes. Caution: The drum/drum master cylinder is not the same internally as the one for disc/drum. Be sure to use the correct one for your application.
The spindles, I-beams and all interchange quite nicely from '65 to '79; your donor truck will provide you with everything you need to make the transplant successful, except of course, for components that wear out such as spindle bushings, rusted brake lines and worn rotors. You can use the factory truck brake systems between '73 to '79 (and some '68 - '72) as near bolt-on upgrades. This will give you excellent safety and performance - right out of the bx, so to speak.
You will probably find this popular and relatively easy power disc upgrade to be the best and easiest from the '78/'79 model years that use a flat bar between the pedal and the booster rather than a rod.
The stopping power of this upgrade will surprise you, as well as the ease of installation.
If you are really ambitious, get a donor truck with power steering, and with the engine/transmission combination you want. This will give you power steering, and the ability to change or upgrade your drivetrain in addition to power disc brakes.
Best of luck however you decide to go.
"Going to a dual chamber cylinder will not help if you don't add a vac. booster or disc brakes."
A dual reservoir master cylinder will give you separate brake circuits, thus providing an emergency reserve if one circuit gives out. I agree power boosters are not required to make brakes work, but dual reservoir master cylinders were required by law in cars and pickups in '67 for this very reason of safety. Many of them from '67-'72 were manual, not power assisted and for all-drum applications as well. <br>
You are wise to upgrade your brakes, and it is far easier than you think with our trucks. Your best bet is to find a '73 - '79 F-100 or F-150 to use as a donor for parts. Most F-100s '68-'72 and some '73 - '79 came with non-power drum/drum applications, if that is really what you want. Most F-150s '73-'79 came with power disc brakes. Caution: The drum/drum master cylinder is not the same internally as the one for disc/drum. Be sure to use the correct one for your application.
The spindles, I-beams and all interchange quite nicely from '65 to '79; your donor truck will provide you with everything you need to make the transplant successful, except of course, for components that wear out such as spindle bushings, rusted brake lines and worn rotors. You can use the factory truck brake systems between '73 to '79 (and some '68 - '72) as near bolt-on upgrades. This will give you excellent safety and performance - right out of the bx, so to speak.
You will probably find this popular and relatively easy power disc upgrade to be the best and easiest from the '78/'79 model years that use a flat bar between the pedal and the booster rather than a rod.
The stopping power of this upgrade will surprise you, as well as the ease of installation.
If you are really ambitious, get a donor truck with power steering, and with the engine/transmission combination you want. This will give you power steering, and the ability to change or upgrade your drivetrain in addition to power disc brakes.
Best of luck however you decide to go.
#10
Confederate Diesel's post above is completely correct. A few highlights I'll repeat so they sink in:
If you're retaining drums, you'll need a master cylinder for a 4 drum setup. The disc brake one will not work.
You do not need a power booster, even with disc brakes. That's a matter of personal preference. I don't like 60s-70s overboosted brakes myself, so have a manual setup on mine. Works perfectly fine, but like the factory setup, you want to stop quicker you have to use your leg.
You absolutely want to ditch the single circuit master cylinder. Totally unsafe, IMO.
You really should consider swapping to disc brakes, it's not a hard conversion. I wrote a how-to that you can easily follow: http://mongrelmotorsports.homestead.com/f100discs.html
It's spelled brakes, not breaks.
If you're retaining drums, you'll need a master cylinder for a 4 drum setup. The disc brake one will not work.
You do not need a power booster, even with disc brakes. That's a matter of personal preference. I don't like 60s-70s overboosted brakes myself, so have a manual setup on mine. Works perfectly fine, but like the factory setup, you want to stop quicker you have to use your leg.
You absolutely want to ditch the single circuit master cylinder. Totally unsafe, IMO.
You really should consider swapping to disc brakes, it's not a hard conversion. I wrote a how-to that you can easily follow: http://mongrelmotorsports.homestead.com/f100discs.html
It's spelled brakes, not breaks.
#11
+2 on Mr. Diesel's post.
to help with locating parts- i upgraded my '65 to a dual master cylinder using parts for a '69 Mustang. the firewall bolt pattern is the same, and the '69 stang came with all sorts of brake setups (drum/drum, disc/drum, etc) so that you can get whatever kind of master cylinder you need.
to help with locating parts- i upgraded my '65 to a dual master cylinder using parts for a '69 Mustang. the firewall bolt pattern is the same, and the '69 stang came with all sorts of brake setups (drum/drum, disc/drum, etc) so that you can get whatever kind of master cylinder you need.
#12
wrong link
Oops, I put the wrong link in post 5. Corrected.
Brass tacks is that you have to know what you have, the cylinder bore and the internal design of the cylinder have a lot of bearing on the pressure produced and using a vacuum booster can cause different problems if you can't afford to lose that vacuum.
Just because it looks like a rooster, don't mean it's a rooster.
Brass tacks is that you have to know what you have, the cylinder bore and the internal design of the cylinder have a lot of bearing on the pressure produced and using a vacuum booster can cause different problems if you can't afford to lose that vacuum.
Just because it looks like a rooster, don't mean it's a rooster.
#13
Just use a master cylinder from a 67-72 F100. These trucks were four wheel drum brakes and used dual reservoir master cylinders. Don't use one from a 73 and up 4X2 as they will have no residual pressure valve for the front brakes and the timing will be off between front and rear. To make the swap easy just get the lines from a 67-72 donor as well.
#14
Confederate Diesel's post above is completely correct. A few highlights I'll repeat so they sink in:
If you're retaining drums, you'll need a master cylinder for a 4 drum setup. The disc brake one will not work.
You do not need a power booster, even with disc brakes. That's a matter of personal preference. I don't like 60s-70s overboosted brakes myself, so have a manual setup on mine. Works perfectly fine, but like the factory setup, you want to stop quicker you have to use your leg.
You absolutely want to ditch the single circuit master cylinder. Totally unsafe, IMO.
You really should consider swapping to disc brakes, it's not a hard conversion. I wrote a how-to that you can easily follow: f100discs
It's spelled brakes, not breaks.
If you're retaining drums, you'll need a master cylinder for a 4 drum setup. The disc brake one will not work.
You do not need a power booster, even with disc brakes. That's a matter of personal preference. I don't like 60s-70s overboosted brakes myself, so have a manual setup on mine. Works perfectly fine, but like the factory setup, you want to stop quicker you have to use your leg.
You absolutely want to ditch the single circuit master cylinder. Totally unsafe, IMO.
You really should consider swapping to disc brakes, it's not a hard conversion. I wrote a how-to that you can easily follow: f100discs
It's spelled brakes, not breaks.
#15