RTV or gaskets ?
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Helena, MT
RTV or gaskets ?
I have been pulling a lot of parts from my engine oil pan, oil pump, vale covers and I was wondering if it would heart to use rtv high temp on all the gaskets instead of buying all the gaskets?
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Gaskets and a thin coat of Permatex copper high temp silicone, IMO. Unless its a intake gasket, always RTV only instead of those rubber "S" gaskets.
Remember to pre lube/pack the oil pump with vaseline......
FYI do not over tighten the valve cover bolts.
Remember to pre lube/pack the oil pump with vaseline......
FYI do not over tighten the valve cover bolts.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,182
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Pull the plate off and pack it full, from what I understand. You can double ck that in the eng forum.
And it vasaline not grease just to be double clear, and you can use a drill to turn over the pump to prime the complete oil sys if its a new eng fresh rebuild.
I just replaced my pump and did not pull distributor to prime it.
And it vasaline not grease just to be double clear, and you can use a drill to turn over the pump to prime the complete oil sys if its a new eng fresh rebuild.
I just replaced my pump and did not pull distributor to prime it.
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Helena, MT
so the distributer turns the oil pump? so could I pull the distrubter and look down the hole to see if there was any damage to the crack shaft with out retiming the engien if I dont move the crank shaft?
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,182
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Yes the bottom part of the distributor turns the oil pump (you did have a 5 sides shaft that came out or was sticking out of the bottom of the block that goes into the top of the pump)?
And yes you can pull the dizzy with out messing up the timing. Mark where the rotor bug is inline with the housing side (grease pencil) and as long as you do not turn over the eng via the starter or by hand.
The dizzy should go right back in. If you have the oil pump already installed, when you pull the dizzy the shaft should stay in place.
If not just put it in and use a little grease (flat tip screwdriver worth on its side down in the block hole) to hold it upright to help with the dizzy going back in.
I do not know how much you will be able to "see" down in that whole, we are getting close to the limits of my experiance. Hello FTE worldly eng guys??? Where are you???
And yes you can pull the dizzy with out messing up the timing. Mark where the rotor bug is inline with the housing side (grease pencil) and as long as you do not turn over the eng via the starter or by hand.
The dizzy should go right back in. If you have the oil pump already installed, when you pull the dizzy the shaft should stay in place.
If not just put it in and use a little grease (flat tip screwdriver worth on its side down in the block hole) to hold it upright to help with the dizzy going back in.
I do not know how much you will be able to "see" down in that whole, we are getting close to the limits of my experiance. Hello FTE worldly eng guys??? Where are you???
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,326
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From: Middle TN
You have to be very careful when using RTV. If you use to much it will squeeze out when assembled and the excess can get pulled into the oil system and stop up oil passages.
I have torn down at least three engines that had spun a rod bearing and found an RTV bugger in the crank oil passage. Only use a thin coat.
I have torn down at least three engines that had spun a rod bearing and found an RTV bugger in the crank oil passage. Only use a thin coat.
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