Hey guys,

I just bought my first car wich is a Ford Ranger XLT 1999 . I drove it for the first time today. It's running great except for one thing. While driving, the truck does a clicking sound from time to time. Kinda like if the fan was kicking on and off. It may sound like a dumb concern, but I am new to the world of car mecanic. Is this normal or not?

 

Hello MisterRanger,

Welcome to FTE!

The clicking you hear is probably the AC compressor cycling on and off which is quite normal. Try turning the AC/Defrost/Defog off and drive around some and see if you hear the noise.

Kevin

 

Thanks for the warm welcome.

Well, I think I was driving without it. I had it before the fan logo(is that off?) cause I was cold enough. Then, my sister put on the heating a bit since she was cold. Still did the clicking sound I think. I'll check for sure tomorrow.

It does make sense what you say.

I just feel like a complete noob tho. I know nothing about working on cars.

 

You'll find that in some settings of the heater/AC control switch that the compressor will cycle. I'd have to check the settings myself to recall which positions use/don't use the compressor. I had a vacuum leak and the only setting (the default setting) was defog/defrost, so the compressor cycled. Pure heat should not require the compressor as I recall.

Honestly, you picked a great first vehicle to learn on. The Ranger is an accessible vehicle, so changing worn parts as a beginner is a good deal easier than on other vehicles, especially later model cars. Theory and experience combine to achieve great things. I'd suggest that you pick up a Haynes/Chilton manual at an autoparts place for around $24 and do some reading. You'll find that many things are within a novice's reach! Just be safe!! Use the right safety equipment and the right tools for the job. If in doubt of your technical acumen or ability, find someone who can help. Learn from a mechanic if you can. Otherwise, pay the pro you trust and keep your piece of mind.

Asking questions is the right thing to do. Don't worry about embarassing yourself. Lot's of folks ask simple questions to confirm theory/suspicions. If you can't refine/modify your theory, a person never advances. So ask a way and hang your butt out there on occasion!!

Kevin

 

Thanks for the info!

I drive professional grade RC cars and work on them all the time. So, I like to work with my hands. For now, I don't have that many tools appart from Vise Grips scredrivers and some tools for my RC cars. I did buy my dad a nice rachet kit for his birthday.

The guy that sold me the truck did all the maintenance himself including changing the brakes and stuff like that. He said he could help me out whenener I needed to.

I'm sure in a couple of years I'll know this truck inside and out. It takes time and patience to chieve good knowledge.

What would be some good tools to have to work on cars appart from a basic rachet and stuff like that?

 

MisterRanger,

In the front of the Hayne's manual, you'll find the quick list of tools that you should have on hand. Have the requisite lubricants as well (grease and graphite, for example). The thing to do is buy the tools that you need to do the smaller jobs and graduate up, IMHO. I used the rationale that for the money I saved doing it myself, I'd buy a somewhat specialized tool that I might need (e.g. calipers or micrometers to measure things, torque wrench).

I'd say that buying the manual is the first thing on the list. It'll help you scope out what you'll put into the tool box. I also recommend that you get the best tools you can afford; they can last a lifetime if cared for. Remember that it is an investment. And in the long run, it'll save you money.

Kevin

 

compressor cycles on all settings including 'heat'.
the only settings that don't use the compressor are "floor only' and "vent only".
Every thing else cycles the compressor even when heat is full on.
In the winter when the temp drops below 45, I believe the compressor no longer will cycle.
I can't remember what this sensor is but i'ts on my 2000.

 

Thanks Greeny! I couldn't remember as it has been a while since I found the vacuum leak and got the temperature control working again. I knew that there was at least one setting that didn't cycle the compressor. We'll have to see what MisterRanger finds after driving it under the different control positions.

Kevin

 

Well, that answers my concern!!! I guess it is normal. Alltho, it didn't do it as much today or I didn't really think about it.

Just another quetion guys. On heavy acceleration, the truck can do some pop sounds from time to times during the acceleration. I think it is my exhaust, because it is really noisy (alltho, my lady friends think it is funny. Lol). Could it be that there is an air leak in the exhaust somewhere thus causing the pop sound. Should make sense since more air flows thru the exhaust during heavy acceleration. If so, what is the part that I have to replace? I really just want to wait on repalcing this as money is tight at the moment.

 

Popping ? Like a backfire ? too much fuel too quick, try acceleration at a slower pace. Also, look to fuel injector carb cleaner and octain boost added to the gas next time you fill up (if people still do that at these prices). If you look under the vehicle you will be able to see all of your exhaust sytem components... there should be no holes except at the end, a temporary fix is to use metal repair tape over around a tin can only if the hole is AFTER the cat converter (small peice that looks like a muffler) Muffler shops arent that high on pricing

 

Thanks for the reply!!!

Yea, it's a pop sound. Not as loud as a backfire tho. I still havn't checked under the truck, but I will soon. I do know the cat converter looks like a muffler. I'm assuming it's like under the cab. Close to the headers. If the cat converter does have an opening, I guess I don't need to seal it with metal repair tape? Just let it go until I replace it.

I did phone mister muffler. They sell Fowmaster and Magnaflow as aftermarket parts. To me, those sound like good companies.

Where can I get metal repair tape? What does it look like?

 

MisterRanger,

I recommend that you spend some time listening to the different exhaust solutions on Youtube. Find the sound you like before investing in a system.

Kevin

 

Will do.

As for the sounds, are they pretty much the same for each company? In example, Flowmaster exhaust systems always have the same sound no matter what product from them you buy.

 

Allright, I have an update.

A good word to desribe this is nasty.

I checked unter the truck and I saw a lump of welding wrape with some rubber thingy. I think that is where the air leak is. Lol. It's after the catalytic converter.

I also found a big amount of rust inside both doors on the bottom. How could I fix that? Sand it down with black sand paper and apply primer? I don't care if there is primer down there. I just want to put an end to the rust so it doesn't appear from the outside(it's starting already).

 

MisterRanger,

Sounds like your leak might be at the flange where it connects to the pipe on the front side of the muffler. I spoke with a guy at Monro today to inquire how they work around a decaying flange. Essentially, they cut it off and put in a coupler if it gets too rusted. Else, the cat needs to be replaced...for big bucks. My flange bracket is decaying, but not leaking yet.

Spoke with a local performance parts guy today to. He recommended a Gibson over the Dynomax. I'll take a listen on Youtube if I can find a 2.5L with one. I don't recall finding one before, but it has to exist. Different sounds between manufacturers, but difficult for me to hear subtler differences within a manufacturer.

Rust on the inside bottom of the doors: common spot for rust on a Ranger. Do a search here to get some tips. You need to slow it down at the minimum. Likely the rust is on the inside part of the weld seem. Check the outer paint and see if you have rust stains bleeding through the paint (sounds like it is). If so, only a matter of time before it rusts through on both sides. I have the problem on my driver's side door. I hit it with rough grit sandpaper and removed the paint, primer and rust. However, the rust is in the steel and causing it to blister. This is a more involve repair than I'm prepared to do, so I primed it with rust inhibiting primer and hit it with high gloss black paint. A few months in, it looks ok. I'm in the process of trying to find a door without rust on Craigslist as it would be cheaper to find one without rust and paint it to match.

Kevin