Is there a write-up on the steps in doing this mod. Sorry guys am a newbie and starting the mod tomorrow. Can you guys give me some tips and advise, please?

-O
2002 f350 Dually CC 7.3L

where do you dissemble the foil tube?

Many thanks in advance guys

 

Don't feel bad about asking questions. That's the best way to learn. What's your knowledge level about working on these motors? Do you just need info on shimming the connector, or need advice on how to pull the valve covers?

There's 2 big aluminum looking tubes under the hood that go from the front back toward the turbo. The one on the driver side has foil and fiberglass insulation covering it. The foil delete mod is just putting on a pair of gloves so the foil doesn't cut you and removing the foil, insulation, and the almost indestructible glue they use to hold the stuff on the tube.

The 50 cents are just a quarter that is ground down to the top of Washington's head so it fits under the valve cover. The modified quarter is the proper width and thickness to slide inside the electrical connector under the valve cover to keep it from coming loose.






While you've got the valve covers off, be sure to torque down the rocker arm pedestal bolts (circled in red) to 20 ft-lbs and the lower injector hold down bolt (circled in blue) to 120 in-lbs.

Note the difference in ft-lbs and in-lbs. You'll need 2 different torque wrenches or use one you would trust down at the low range and do 10 ft lbs on the injector bolt.

 

Thanks for the quick response, f350-6. My first desiel engine.

So i can just take the foil wrap off?

I just unscrewed the bolts to loosen the clamps down of the tube and tried pulling the tube off of the turbo, doens't even budge. what did you use to pull the rubber tube off of the turbo? Large pliers?

What is foil delete mod? simply just remove the foil?

many thank!

 

Careful with the rubber boots. They can tear. If you've got the clamps loose, take a small flat blade screwdriver and stick it between the tube and the rubber boot and then slide it all the way around the tube to break the seal. Having them stuck is a good thing. When you put it back together, wiping off the oil you'll find in there and then spraying the end of the tube or inside of the boot with some hair spray will give you a tacky surface to help hold things together. If a boot blows off later, you'll hear a loud bang and the truck will suddenly have no power.

And yes, the foil delete mod is simply removing the foil. It will make the turbo whistle more noticeable and clean things up under the hood. Some guys paint the pipes to make it look pretty.

 

thanks man! greatly appreciate it. will get back under the hood tomorrow night. will keep you posted.

 

Once you remove all the foil and insulation paint remover will help getting the glue off.

 

Just make sure that your torque wrench is calibrated before you re-torque the injector hold downs.....ask me how I know.
See sig...

 

Redboat and Franko72 - thanks for the advise.

 

Guys, tackling the driver side valve cover. Did you guys remove the battery tray to remove the tube? and properly place it back when putting everything back?

Many thanks in advance

 

Never had to remove the battery let alone the tray, but if it is in you way then get it out of your way. As far as getting the boot clamps loose at the IC I use a couple of long 1/4" drive extensions, 1/4" drive deep 7/16 socket and a cordless drill. A cordless drill makes quick work of all the boot clamps. Just don't loose your nuts. Sorry, didn't mean for that to sound personal.

If you still have the stock boots at the spider and IC they do go on a particular way. The stock boots have a groove at one end that runs around the inside circumfrence. It mates to a ridge that runs around the outside circumfrence of the IC tubes. With the clamp placed right over where the groove slips over the ridge you will get a nice tight connection. Stock boots have lines that the clamp should be between when tightening.

 

No need, but whatever makes it easier. I think theres a ziptie around the tube and p/s line, that needs cut.

 

Where do you take your torque wrenches to get calibrated?

 

I took mine to Sears to be repaired and, and they claimed it was recalibrated.
I would guess that the tool manufacturer would have to do it, the one I used for my injector hold downs was brand new and was way off.

 

Amazon sells the Alltrade 940759 Says you can Use as a calibration devise for existing torque wrenches has some good reviews.
Amazon.com: Alltrade 940759 Powerbuilt Digital Torque Adaptor for 1/2-Inch Driver: Home Improvement

 

Good find, I want one