Ross, I agree with you 100%. I found the chipped teeth in the fluid when I drained it, then the gear with the chips missing, and ordered the gear.

But I think you're the one who commented in my other post about tranny lock up problems that it might be the reverse gear moving forward when I come to a stop.

Now that was the original problem I had, but I pulled the tranny because the last time I drove the truck, as I was moving it into the garage, it REALLY locked up, like I had run into a chock or something. That may be the reverse idler moving forward, but I don't think so because I was going uphill in 1st gear up the driveway.

I have questions about the way the shifter controls that reverse idler gear cluster. The reverse idler shifter fork moves the reverse idler gear forward to engage. From what I can see in this transmission, the position of that shifter fork is controlled by the flats on the reverse shifter shaft.


I don't understand how this works ( had a hell of a time trying to get it back into neutral position after I removed it from the tranny).

If these flats on this reverse shifter shaft are allowing the reverse idler gear to move forward when I'm in a forward gear, how can it be in the right position to actually move the shifter into reverse?

I don't even know if that makes sense.

 

I'm too cheap to let someone else clean it.

Thanks Bobby. I'm too cheap to let someone else clean it.


OK, going to get some oven cleaner tonight.

OK, going to get some oven cleaner tonight.

And I'll say again, you're too kind. But I hope my ramblings will help someone else who, like me, is new to all this stuff. And brakes are the best thing to do after you get it to move!

 

It is possible for the fork to be on one side of the groove in the gear that it is supposed to be sitting in. I'm not familiar enough with the crashboxes to say if you can actually do that and have a functioning gearbox.

The shifter detent assembly (spring-loaded ***** both vertically and horizontally) should prevent being in two gears at once. So they will also prevent moving one rail while another rail is in "gear".

 

Super Clean works well from Autozone.

 

I just bought some Easy Off from Walmart. I'll see how well it works tomorrow.

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

 

Nice work Joe. I didn't think you could remove it through the top. I wonder how much bigger the tranny is on the F7-8 then the F1's and how much more it weighs? Great pics.

Happy Thanksgiving to you too!

 

I was very surprised by the top removal also!

 

The Shop Manual is very specific about removing the 3 speed and 4 speed standard transmission as well as the 4 speed synchro up through the floor opening. Instructions for the 4 speed standard removal are on page 147. There's two short paragraphs explaining the procedure.

Apparently, the only one that drops out the bottom is the 5 speed.

I too questioned this long before I started this phase of the project. Now that I've done it, I see that the crossmember is in the way for removal out the bottom.

 

You are correct, the flats on the reverse shaft engage the arm and move the reverse gear. If your shaft, arm, or the detent parts in the top are worn out you can get gears engaging at the wrong time. Your transmission will lock up if any two gears engage at the same time. I'd take the top apart, clean, inspect, and grease all your shifter parts. Post pictures of the parts as they come apart and we can tell you if any are worn out or look wrong.

 

OK, I'll do just that. Thanks.

 

I have the transmission out and supported with wood blocks under the clutch housing and main shaft bearing retainer (ears), thinking this would give me a well-supported case to disassemble the transmission.

Now I see I will have to remove the park brake drum assembly and the clutch housing to disassemble the transmission.

For anyone who has replaced gears, can this best be done with the transmission on its side?

 

You'll need to get the castelated (sp?) nut off. That's easiest when bolted up to the engine. Now that it's out, lock it by placing it in two gears at once. This seizes the shaft up plenty. I put the T-98 on a piece of plywood on its shifter cover surface so it had a really secure flat to help keep the whole thing from rolling. Then, unless you have a hefty impact driver, get a breaker bar and arrange it so that you can strike straight down on the breaker bar. Then pound away. It is a right-hand thread and should free up (cotter pin alert). If not, a little bit of heat wouldn't hurt (you're changing the seal and bearing anyway). Just don't take it past 2-300 F and you won't change the temper. It was factory torqued to ninety Lb*Ft or so.

As for positioning it for rebuild - I had mine every which way. I put it on wood to cushion it.

 

Thanks Jeremy.

I had to get a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter for my 1 1/2" socket (don't know why I had that socket with no way to drive it!).

Once I got the park brake off the drum, I saw how bad shape it's in. That will be something else to replace... I remember seeing that done a couple of years ago in Earl's World. Better go back and reread it.



I didn't think the park brake shoe was bad from this view.



But it's worn unevenly down to the rivets in one area. I think it was adjusted wrong because the spring on the anchor adjusting screw is broken in half.



I guess it was working because the rivets were digging into the drum. And the rust probably helped it hold too.



But I cleaned up the drum surface and will finish refurbing the whole park brake set-up when I'm done with the tranny.



Can anyone tell from looking at this pic if the throwout bearing is OK? I don't know what a new one looks like...



Anyway, this is how the tranny cleaned up for paint with the oven cleaner and some elbow grease. Thanks again for that tip (all of you).



Yes, I thought the transmissions were red, so I painted that PTO cover red when I pulled it off months ago. But the whole transmission will be flat black before it goes back in.

.

 

Test the release bearing by spinning it, see that it spins freely, hopefully with some drag from grease. Ah hell, just replace it. Want to pull the trans later to do it? Didn't think so. The bearing comes off its hub with some tapping.

 

Yes, it spins just fine. But I have always had a "sound" in neutral with the engine running when I let the clutch out. The sound goes away when I push in the clutch. Thought it might be that bearing...