2002 Ford Ranger, 4x4, 4.0L engine, 5 speed

So I've been having some front bearing noise lately, and I've put off addressing it, because I'm just using the truck for dump runs during the summer.

Having finally got around to it, I took it out for a spin to diagnose which side it was. When I turned right at 40 mph or so, the noise stopped. According to this guy's experience, it's the left (driver's side) bearing.

So, no big deal, right? Just change it out and I'm good to go. Except this is the second time I've had a bearing fail.

I'd like to address what's causing it- perhaps a bad ball joint (which the mechanics have been telling me about for years, but I ignored because it drove fine and didn't shimmy or wobble).

Can a bad ball joint accelerate bearing wear?

When I jacked it up this morning to identify the bad bearing, I noticed that the driver's side wheel pulled in a half inch to an inch when I unloaded the wheel. The passenger side did not.

I took it out for that drive I mentioned above and jacked up the left/passenger side first, and it barely moved inward. Then I jacked up the driver's side again and it did not repeat the same movement.

I suppose it's probably obvious that I should replace the bearing and the ball joint, but I wanted to run it past you guys because it's gonna be a week before I fix it anyway.

Thanks for reading!

 

Bad ball joints are unlikely to trash a wheel bearing. Incorrect adjustment of the bearing could make it go bad. There is a specific procedure to follow for the adjustment. Perhaps the bearing wasn't seated correctly to start with?

If the replacement bearing is a cheap Chinese model, that definitely would go bad fast. I've had Chinese U-joints last just 3,000 miles. So stay away from that crap and buy Motorcraft quality.

 

Maybe a bent rim?

 

Definately replace that baring ! and to stop you from having to do it as often replace the inner seal. I thaught its a flaw in Ranger series because I had the same thing going on. I decided to go against the addage " if it ain't broke don't fix it ", I replaced the inner seal, packed the inner baring with marine grade grease, installed the wheel, added more marine grease, packed the out baring again with marine grade grease, installed the first nut after checking to make sure the detent pin was facing out and was sticking out (they sometimes move in the hole they are set in), installed the washer, second nut (making sure that each was set to torgue), installed the spline washer and retainer clip, and finally before putting the hub on....ran a small bean of marine grease around its seal. No more problems since. Aftermarket or Oem or Ford only, parts work the same