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Ok good folks --all input appreciated 1992 351 w (Bronco)nearing the 200000 mile mark . I feel i have a head gasket leak and have decided to rebuild this power plant.Truck has an upper n lower intake by edelbrock, msd6a box , super chip,blaster coil and a msd drop in distributor, plus a 56mm throttle body by bbk.. I did a koeo test (all good) 111. When doing a koer test cylinder #8 low power. For a while i have been getting oil up near the throttle body. Truck sits for a while, i get a leak between transmission and motor . No oil in coolant no coolant in oil etc . Question for torque and relaible power whats the best thing to do when rebuilding. I am not racing this beast but do want relaible power with torque with using all the same components as chip and msd stuff.I am no mechanic but my ears are open ,any suggestions from the experts thanks TR
If you're going to rebuild it I would go out and pick up a used 351 engine or just a short block. Just make sure that it's a roller block so you can use one of the better roller cams instead of a flat tappet cam.
A stock Mustang 5.0L roller cam is a good choose for a 351 and can be had cheap as so many get replaced by owners hotrodding their 5.0L Mustang. If you don't get the lifters with the cam you could pick a set roller lifters at the Pick-N-Pull as all the hydro rollers on the 5.0 & 5.8 are interchangeable. As long as they don't show wear they should still be good. Just soak them in some solvent to clean them out.
A set of GT40 heads would also be a good addition if you can get a set that don't need a rebuild. Your stock heads will need work if you reuse them so a set of GT40 heads that are good to go may end up costing you very little over rebuilding your current heads and they will be a performance up grade to boot.
If you choose not to upgrade to the roller block since the 5.8/351 was only made 1994-1996 and aren't as easy to come by you can choose to keep your existing cam/lifters as long as you keep everything in the same holes.
Sounds like you want a nice flat torque curve rather than a peak HP racer. Stick with a truck or RV cam if you go new. Boring cylinders gives very little extra cubes if not necessary don't bother.
Any time you need to replace pistons, go for more compression as flat tops are cheaper than dishes and you get better economy and power form higher compression unless you need to use premium fuel. I try to stay around 9.5-10 for iron head windsors and run 87 octane all day.
If you have a nice die grinder, you can port match your heads and round off the valve guides a bit on your stock heads.
So now you have a cheap alternative too. Let us know which you do. I love building these motors.