nevermind, that went in the wrong spot.

 

I seem to be having problems posting in this forum as of the last two days. My replies are going wherever they want to or not at all. It is bizarre. Anyhow, I agree that DSII is a fine system, and EEC-IV was not. I can't atest to HEI, because it didn't fire up for me after I hooked it up. I think my Ford doesn't like a Chevy part. But then again, Patch is a picky truck anyway. I think I'll try to find a motorcraft module and just keep the DSII going. It's my fault I fried the thing. It definitely does run fine when everything is in tune and properly set up.

 

The stock Motorcraft Duraspark ignition module has a unique start/retard function that actually retards the timing a bit at start-up for quicker starts. (Most of the cheaper replacement ignition modules do not have this feature.) This also allows you to run a bit more timing, if you wish. My 1985 F150 with Duraspark ignition and Motorcraft module actually starts up faster than ANY vehicle I have ever owned, including my 1998 Jeep Wrangler and my wife's 2001 Ford Mustang! All I have to do is barely bump the ignition and it starts right up. The GM HEI and all other aftermarket ignition systems do not have this feature.

 

not to **** in anyone's cheerios, but I have never used di-electric grease as a heat sink compound. Here are a few links:
Heat sink compound = dielectric grease? - The Home Shop Machinist & Machinist's Workshop Magazine's BBS
Ignition Module Grease. What Type? - Corvette Forum
Q&A: Dielectric Gel | TechRepublic
http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oGd...php%3ft=292978

 

OK folks, let's clear up all the misconceptions right now. Thermal paste and dielectric grease are two completely different compounds, for two completely different purposes:

Dielectric grease is meant to keep corrosion out of connections. You goop it all over the terminals inside a weather-proof connection so that the grease displaces air inside the microscopic grooves and imperfections on the surface of the contact metal. It's supplied with ignition modules because these typically are placed under the hood, and as such, have weather-proof connections. It's non-conductive (hence the term "dielectric") so that you can smear it over multiple connections and not short anything. Its meant to join electrical connections.

Thermal paste is meant to transfer heat from one place to another. It performs a similar task in that it fills the grooves and imperfections in between two surfaces, because thermal paste conducts heat better than the air that would otherwise be trapped in between the two non-planar surfaces. It's meant to join mating surfaces.

Dielectric grease is not designed to replace thermal paste, and vice-versa. Dielectric grease is typically not rated in terms of thermal conductivity because that's not its intended application - that is for thermal paste.

In summary: dielectric grease is used inside the electrical connections, whereas thermal paste is used in between the device body and it's mating surface. Thermal paste is typically not used with the Duraspark module because its case is not designed to transfer heat to the fender - although this would have been an improvement. Instead, the recommendation at the time was to stand the module off with washers to allow some air flow under the module (this came from a Ford TSB).

 

why not just ditch the dsII and swap your dizzy out for a points dizzy and add a points eliminator kit?

 

Supercab: Is that what you run? I hadn't considered it, because I didn't know such an option existed. Tell me about it. It looks like I could do it for about 100 bucks. If it gets me back on the road, I'd be willing to do it for at least a little while to see if I like the results. It doesn't really seem like it could be an improvement over electronic ignition options, but I am open-minded. The only thing I will never do is hook that damn EEC-IV back up. That was a turd ignition.

 

well..............my dad gave my a crane cams fireball 2 for christmas for a different truck and i have a points dizzy on the shelf. first hint of trouble my duraspart gives me it will be going in, ive spent too much money thus far on the duraspart to sh*& can it now.

basicly everything in my ign. is new includeing parts of the truck harness

my uncle converted his boat from some electronic ign. to a points eliminator kit to eliminate problems and simplify things and for the last 6-7 years he hasnt touched it.

 

Are you referring to getting a points style distributor and swapping the points and condenser out for a Pertronix electronic ignition? If so, I agree that this is a good option as well. I have never run Pertronix before, but I hear good things about it from people who run older vehicles and want to keep the stock look of their points ignition. It will allow you to keep it simple with a one-wire hook up. However, parts availability is still the question. Because it is an aftermarket ignition, every parts store in America is not going to have Pertronix parts if something fails and you are away from home.

Pertronix is an upgrade over a conventional points ignition.

Duraspark II is an upgrade over the Pertronix ignition.

 

yes lariat! that is exactly what im sayin

 

Do you guys know of a petronix points eliminator setup for a 300 i6 points distributor? Everything I am finding is for V8s. Everything is always for V8s. It's rather annoying I must say.

 

Yes, that's Pertronix part number 1261:

PerTronix 1261 - PerTronix Ignitor® Solid-State Ignition Systems - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

Thanks. It looks like doing the petronix and points type distributor mod is not cost economical for me. It seems that my stator coil in my DSII distributor is also cooked and malfunctioning with new DSII modules. The bottom line, in case anyone ever asks this again: the ballast is required in DSII, and you can't use an E-coil for TFI with DSII. It nuked my DSII driving without a ballast. You also can't depend on cheap cardone reman DSII distributors or Chinazone modules. It's going to cost me 200 bucks whether I restore the whole DSII setup or whether I put in the petronix point rig. I'm just going to buy the DUI rig from performance distributors, hook up two wires, and be done with it. Thanks for the advice folks.

 

You have learned early on what I keep trying to tell people in here when they decide to start screwing around with their stock Duraspark ignition system. It is already a very good, engineered ignition system that is perfectly capable for a stock or even a modified engine. There is absolutely nothing a GM HEI ignition system can do that the Motorcraft Duraspark II ignition can't already do. It is also not a good idea to try to run a "high performance" coil that the DSII was never intended to run and the resistor wire is there for a reason! And most cheap, replacement parts that you find on ebay or the local "McParts" store are GARBAGE, and not nearly as good as the original Ford Motorcraft parts.

200 bucks is about right for what it costs to have a completely new, reliable ignition system. And since they both cost about the same, the Duraspark would be the better option as it is an upgrade over the points/Pertronix ignition.

Performance Distributors is a fantastic, American company, and the D.U.I. is a great unit. In fact, I am using one of their custom-curved Duraspark distributors myself. However, the Ford DUI distributor is going to cost you close to $400. That is almost DOUBLE the cost of a good Duraspark ignition. And unless you are planning to spend a lot of time above 5,000 RPMs or are actively drag racing your pickup truck, you will never be able to tell the difference between a (properly functioning) Duraspark and the Ford DUI.

Good luck!

 

Lariat 85 summed it up pretty well:

(1) The Duraspark system is fine as-is and shouldn't be modified.
(2) You can't reliably mix and match parts between ignition systems.
(3) If you're going to upgrade to performance ignition, you have to upgrade the entire package. However, I personally think the money spent here could go toward other upgrades (intake, carburetor, etc) that will net more results for the money. For a given plug gap, it takes a specific secondary voltage to jump the gap - and the Duraspark setup does just that.