Rotten Cab - Keep Or Throw?
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 137
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Rotten Cab - Keep Or Throw?
Well, I got the cab all stripped down today, and to my disappointment...its got some pretty bad rot in the floor 
. Not sure if its really worth trying to get some new floor panels etc. welded in or to throw it and get another from somewhere. I am not a welder, so I would end up paying someone to do it. The cost of materials + labor may be more than another cab. Has anyone here actually gone through and fixed a rotted cab or do you just throw them? And now that it has already started, how can you be sure it is stopped? I live in the Northwest and most vehicles over here arent like this. The bed was the same exact way, but I already planned on throwing the bed. The rot in the cab was of course all under the carpet so I had no idea it was this bad. Any advice would be appretiated, thanks. Also, in the picture "Behind_Seat_Floor" there is a funky bolt thingy that looks like it was made to fold down. Anyone know what that is? Does this look like factory or an add-on? Thanks again.
. Not sure if its really worth trying to get some new floor panels etc. welded in or to throw it and get another from somewhere. I am not a welder, so I would end up paying someone to do it. The cost of materials + labor may be more than another cab. Has anyone here actually gone through and fixed a rotted cab or do you just throw them? And now that it has already started, how can you be sure it is stopped? I live in the Northwest and most vehicles over here arent like this. The bed was the same exact way, but I already planned on throwing the bed. The rot in the cab was of course all under the carpet so I had no idea it was this bad. Any advice would be appretiated, thanks. Also, in the picture "Behind_Seat_Floor" there is a funky bolt thingy that looks like it was made to fold down. Anyone know what that is? Does this look like factory or an add-on? Thanks again.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 158
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From: Stroud, OKlahoma
It's really up to you man, the cab of my truck has some pretty good size rust holes in the floor pan, much larger than what your picture shows, and I plan on just cutting it out and welding in the replacement floor pans. But then again, I can weld.. Your best bet is to call a welding shop and ask them how much it would be for them to do it, or see if one of your friends can do it. If the cab is otherwise straight then you'd probably be better off repairing the one you have.. The panels are about $50 or $60 bucks from LMC and the actual repair work won't take be that hard.. espically since you've already got it stripped down.
Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 341
Likes: 1
From: Lingle, Wyoming
While I can weld, I simply cut out the sections that were cancered too bad and then got new pans. Theres a metal bonding epoxy out now that goes on like caulk. You clamp the two pieces together with some sheet metal screws until the bond is set remove the screws and fill in the holes. Bonds so hard the test piece I did, tore the metal before the joint even flexed. I got a local body guy to loan me the caulking gun and bought a tube of the stuff from him. total time to replace both floor pans was two hours. I'm not the builder that other members are, (Grinner, Impalaslayer or HIYO) . I'm not building a concourse truck, but I wanted strong durable and solid rig. That's what I got
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
That rot is very fixable. If you're not a builder/fabricator, become one!
With a modest initial investment (investment in that it saves money over time), learning how to weld will reward you with a skill that is highly applicable - especially since we like these older vehicles from the days where rustproofing and seam sealing was less than ideal. Pick the right tools (quality vs cost) and I estimate for about $1500 you can be on your way to a fun, life-long experience. For example, I'm using an extra roof rack (from a wrecked van) to make a light rack for a fellow FTE member... total cost about $25 and a few hours in the shop. Retail? About $100. Sure it's faster to simlpy buy one but there is distinct satisfaction in resurrecting it yourself.
If that's all the rust there is, I'd keep the cab and use it to develop welding skills upon. Invest in yourself!
With a modest initial investment (investment in that it saves money over time), learning how to weld will reward you with a skill that is highly applicable - especially since we like these older vehicles from the days where rustproofing and seam sealing was less than ideal. Pick the right tools (quality vs cost) and I estimate for about $1500 you can be on your way to a fun, life-long experience. For example, I'm using an extra roof rack (from a wrecked van) to make a light rack for a fellow FTE member... total cost about $25 and a few hours in the shop. Retail? About $100. Sure it's faster to simlpy buy one but there is distinct satisfaction in resurrecting it yourself.
If that's all the rust there is, I'd keep the cab and use it to develop welding skills upon. Invest in yourself!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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I shouldn't say I CANT weld. I went to welding school 10 years or so ago. Made it about 1/2 way to a degree before realizing I didnt want to do it for a living! I do have an arc welder here (I would just need to wire up a 220 plug for it). But I suppose a mig welder would probably be better.
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Save the old ones
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 666
Likes: 4
From: Boyne Mich
There is a $500 cab on ebay.
In Kanas,
I have spent weeks, even months welding up rusted out junk. Only to watch it not last.
If it is going to be something you want to keep, Find good rust free parts.
If it's a toy to play with hard,then patch it up.
Item number: 300583781866
In Kanas,
I have spent weeks, even months welding up rusted out junk. Only to watch it not last.
If it is going to be something you want to keep, Find good rust free parts.
If it's a toy to play with hard,then patch it up.
Item number: 300583781866
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
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I would suppose the rain gutters are starting to go too ? Even doing the work yourself it won't be cost effective to fix. Your time, materials, money are worth a lot these days when you can buy rust free ones for $500 and just bolt on and spray with minimal body work, it just isn't worth it. In the end you would just have a patched up cab and who knows where it will start to rust next.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 28
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Keep it...Fix it and use it...i hate seeing these years go to waste cause no one wants to take time and fix them. and cabs arent reproduced now adays only bed sides and fenders and all that such so just keep the cab and restore it to make it look new again.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 84
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From: Rockford, MI
Its nice to see so many differing opinions on this. Really it just comes down to you, do what you want to the truck.
If it were me, I'd fix the cab you have. I have a feeling the hours that would go into repairing the panels would be far less than putting in a new cab and then having to paint it and such. And you'd be saving yourself a $500 purchase of a replacement cab. That is my take on it.
If it were me, I'd fix the cab you have. I have a feeling the hours that would go into repairing the panels would be far less than putting in a new cab and then having to paint it and such. And you'd be saving yourself a $500 purchase of a replacement cab. That is my take on it.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Turnerville, Al
shoot ill throw my $.02 in also. i spent the time to swap a cab on my 80 toyota hilux. it was well worth it because my roof leaked, if not for carpet my foot would have rode on the frame, only 2 body mounts even functioned. however in your case... man id take a wire wheel clean it up, cut out the bad sections and weld in some new. it wont be too bad and be well worth it because youll have the satisfaction in the end of saying " this is my truck, i built it, and i fixed all the problems"
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