Hey guys, I just bought a 97 Ford F250 4x4 with a 7.3 powerstroke and an automatic transmission, E4OD I think, I'll have to check the VIN to be sure on that. The electronic overdrive switch housing and switch are broke, I can see the 3 wires that connect to the switch. The problem is that the switch is so messed up that it will actually take itself out of overdrive on its own, I can mess with the switch and it will make connection and go back into overdrive, right now I am having problems with it slipping out and not going back into overdrive. So I am going to change the shift lever and overdrive switch, but I was wondering if anyone had any step by step instructions on how to do this. Please help me with this guys, I searched for previous posts but I didnt find anything helpful. Any help and guidance would be great. Thanks.

 

Here. This is copied from the Workshop Manual. I've never done this myself, but this should get you close.

HERE is the link to the website. To get to the page i am quoting here you need to go to section 07-05. (click on section 07, then scroll down to section 07-05 which is labeled "Transmission, Automatic, External Controls". That contains the text below and a dieagram showing how it comes apart.

Hope that helps!

Section 07-05: Transmission, Automatic, External Controls

1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Gearshift Lever and Housing



Removal

Remove steering column release lever by unscrewing from the steering column.

Turn ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) to RUN position. Using a 1/8-inch drift, depress ignition switch lock cylinder retaining pin through access hole and remove ignition switch lock cylinder.

Remove retaining screws of the instrument cluster mask and remove instrument cluster mask.

Remove four retaining screws from lower steering column shroud. Remove upper and lower steering column shrouds.

Using a small screwdriver, pry steering column opening weather seal (3513) from pedestal on ignition switch lock cylinder. Slide instrument cluster mask toward handle of shift control selector lever and housing to expose shift lever pin.

On vehicles equipped with an E4OD transmission, disconnect transmission control switch (TCS).

Using a small drift, tap shift lever pin from bottom for removal. Discard shift lever pin. Remove gearshift lever (7210).



Installation

Insert gearshift lever through hole insteering column opening weather seal. Position cover on gearshift lever.

Verify that the anti-rattle clip of the gearshift lever is correctly positioned in the shift tube shift lever socket. Replace if required.

Insert gearshift lever.

Install a new shift lever pin into position and tap in place until the head seats against gearshift lever.

On vehicles equipped with an E4OD or 4R70W automatic transmission, connect transmission control switch.

Position steering column opening weather seal on the steering column. Insert lower attachment into the slot on side of steering column.

Position upper attachment on shift lever pin.

Install upper and lower steering column shrouds and install screws. Tighten screws.

Install instrument cluster mask and retaining screws.

Install ignition switch lock cylinder into steering column flange.

Install steering column release lever onto steering column.

Check for proper start in PARK and NEUTRAL. Make sure start circuit cannot be actuated in DRIVE or REVERSE positions and the steering column is locked in the LOCK position.

 

More info this and the info above should get you there with options.

As you have probably seen on previous threads the wires leading to this switch are usually the culprit for a non working switch and the easiest solution is to buy a shifter lever from the dealer as quoted by another member $49. But if you want to save the $50 and the fix the wires, heres how I did it.

Disconect the battery cables. Remove the screws (3) from bottom on the plastic column cover and remove the lower section. Insert your ign key and turn the key to the "on" position. Looking from the bottom up at the ign cylinder the is a small hole/bore,(~3/16 dia) insert a small pin puch in the hole, this will release the cylinder asm, pull the asm straight out. Remove the upper colume cover. Follow the wires for the OD switch to locate your "broken wire".
The cut or brake can be very small. I had one with a brake in the insulation just big enough for two strands of wire to ground out.
The above removal description is from another member next knock the pin up and out that holds the shifter lever in place a few taps should do it if you have to hit it hard back up the housing with a hammer so it doesn't get racked. Once the shifter lever is out pry the cap off the end there is a small slot to get a small screwdriver into, once the cap is off slide the light cover off and then pry out the switch its about 3/4" long. once the switch is out you need to get the switch socket out which can be a little tricky, there are four slots which you can put some small wedges in to expand the housing so the socket will slide out there are tabs on each side of these slots which hold the socket in place use a pair of needle nose pliers and grab the socket at the slot where the light cover was. You can cut the tabs off if you get frustrated but its best to leave them so if the switch needs to be replaced later it wont stress the wires. once the socket is past the tabs pull gently feeding the wire from the bottom. The wires usually get cut right at the base of the shifter not leaving enough room to splice into which is why you need to pull the socket out, once out find some matching wire spice it at the base of the socket or if your real cool find and replace the connectors in the socket, if you splice to the wire that's there keep your soldered joints small and near the base of the switch socket or the will hang up when you reassemble. Pick a convenient spot to splice the other end preferably closer to the connector on the other end.
That's it just put it back together the way it came apart and your all set it took me about an hour to do mine which was a 2003 F250.

Hopefully this helps somebody out there.

John

 

piece of cake to replace. you can do the lever without actually dropping the colum but its only 4 13mm nuts. if your already in there i would replaced the 2 shifter tube bushings, they are none to wear out. easily obtained at ford as they use the same shift tube in all kinds of cars

 

I have a 99 F250 super duty just replaced the shift lever on mine easy enough to do however now it won't start or crank and I can't even get dash lights when the ignition is in the on position.

Would have made my own post but haven't figured out how yet