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Mileage Torque Converter Experience?

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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 10:00 PM
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Mileage Torque Converter Experience?

I've read everything I can find on FTE regarding the use of "mileage" torque converters such as the Hughes Performance Fuel Miser. However, I find very little actual experience being offered, so I'm asking: What has been your experience with that or similar converters? Do they really increase the mileage 2 - 4 MPG as advertised? What about the "feel" - do they help or hurt throttle response? Towing?

I've done the math and payout is in ~$7,000 miles at +2 MPG, so while I have the engine out, now is the time if ever.

Edit: Chris was right - increase not reduce!
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 10:25 PM
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I think Gary means increase the gas mileage.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
I think Gary means increase the gas mileage.
Duh! Thanks, you are right. I edited the original post so's to not confuse people.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 06:28 PM
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i guess since 42 of have seen the question and haven't responded I guess none of you have installed one of those converters. So, I'll post this in the clutch/transmission/et al forum. But, thanks for looking!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 06:33 PM
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One of you guys can be our guinea pig.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 10:20 AM
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I enjoy reading the threads in the 1979 and older sections, and I came across this post today:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10701833
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 11:06 AM
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Sw1tchfoot - Hadn't read that but have now. Ford390gashog is the one I referenced above as he does have the Fuel Miser TC. In fact, he has an F250 and still went w/that one and not the Tow and hasn't had any problems.

As said before, I'm kinda on the fence but leaning to going w/the Fuel Miser. But, at the same time I'm rebuilding the engine, installing an Edelbrock 1406, porting the exhaust side of the heads, and probably going with dual exhaust. If I get better mileage it is gonna be hard to give credit to any particular thing since most things will have changed. Hardly a controlled test.

Question for y'all. (This is my thread so.....) I have the stock Ford 4V intake off the '85 351W HO. However, there's a Weiand Stealth available on craigslist for $100. If it were a Performer I'd do it, but have read that the Stealth has larger passages than the Performer, which hurts low-end torque - and probably mileage. Anyone know? Experience? Thoughts?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 11:51 AM
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I found an Edelbrock Performer 351 on an 86 Bronco last week (the same one from which I got the steering wheel) and my first thought was how people here look for those things.

It would be kinda easy to take off (carb is already gone) but kinda not - the front end for some reason is real high off the ground; this hides it from people passing by but I'd have to climb up onto the thing.

I have no idea what the shipping cost would be for that thing, though......
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
I found an Edelbrock Performer 351 on an 86 Bronco last week (the same one from which I got the steering wheel) and my first thought was how people here look for those things.

It would be kinda easy to take off (carb is already gone) but kinda not - the front end for some reason is real high off the ground; this hides it from people passing by but I'd have to climb up onto the thing.

I have no idea what the shipping cost would be for that thing, though......
What do you think they'd want for it? I can compute the shipping costs, and I'd want to pay you for your time. Just wanting to get a ball park.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:08 PM
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Just called and asked - aftermarket V8 intake manifolds, $54.


EDIT: My ZIP is 80122
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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Tnx for the offer and followup. UPS estimate is $22.50, putting subtotal to 76.50. But, I've been bitten twice lately w/the UPS shipping cost calculator. Either I don't know how to weigh or it estimates low, so adding a little fudge factor says we'd be up to $80. Add to that something for your time, gas, etc would bring us to at least $100, which is the asking price of the Stealth on CL.

Lets think about it a bit. We don't know, unless you checked, if it is the EGR version or not, but it should at least be the later version that uses fewer bolts if the engine in the '86 was original.

There are at least two other questions to answer:
  • Is the Stealth a bit "bigger" than the Performer? The catalog says its band is to 6000 while the Performer says 5500. Not much difference, especially when it is two different vendors.
  • How much better is the Performer than the stock 4V manifold?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:41 PM
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Off the cuff, I don't know the answers to any of those questions...

It later occurred to me, EGR or not. This being Colorado, it'd need to be EGR in order to pass the emissions tests here but I have no idea if in fact the thing was ever registered in this state.

I'd think I'd be looking for a hole near the carburetor flange for an exhaust gas port, I never looked that closely.

Another question I have is, does the distributor need to be removed? I don't have a distributor wrench although a swivel socket adapter should work fine, I'd guess (been a LONG time since I've ever touched a Wheezer engine).

When I was investigating for my M-block, I learned about single vs dual-plane manifolds, the only specifics I remember are that dual-planes are better in low-end torque setups (as opposed to high-RPM, high-horsepower variants).

How much better is an aftermarket manifold than the stock? I have no idea, but I know it's around 50 lbs. lighter.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 01:13 PM
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The fuel miser TC is going to have less internal slip than a regular TC while at cruising speeds. It is all in the way they shape the vanes inside and the fluid path. Should act like a regular TC when accelerating, etc. As close to having a lockup converter as you can get without it actually locking up. I have heard they work, but I don't have one.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 01:41 PM
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Chris - It is possible to remove the intake w/o removing the dizzy. But, that means bringing the rear of the manifold up and then the whole thing back. I think there is enough room between the firewall and the engine to do that, but it might be close. Then there's the issue of getting to the front bolts, and the direct access you'd want with an extension on a ratchet would be blocked.

Another issue I just thought of - we don't know what condition the manifold is in, and can't know w/o pulling it. The issue is the flanges on the front and rear where the water passages are. I've pulled 2 of the aluminum 2 bbl manifolds in the last year and neither was in usable condition w/o welding up the surface and then milling it back. I did that to the 1st one, the one on my truck at present, but am not on the 2nd one - it is going to the salvage.

All these things taken together tell me to pass on that manifold. Still thinking about the Stealth, but would rather put the money to the converter.

Stang - Yep, that's how I read it - the Miser is as close to lockup as we are going to get w/o a clutch in the converter. And, since payout is in ~6500 miles on gas mileage alone I'm about ready to do it. But, I don't even have the engine work started so it'll be a while before I'm ready, which gives me time to ask questions and think about it.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 02:25 PM
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Gary - Do you want EGR or no?
 
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