i dont know how to post pics here but it has 4pin connector with 4 wires and its located behind the hpop, its before the glow plug relay and before that relay are the sensors for the hpop.i got another question on the hpop, how do you check if hpop has pressure, i opened the round cover with allen type hole and added 1 quart of oil and when i crank it the level goes down.its seems that the oil that im pouring on the hpop goes on the engine.is this normal?so here what i have done so far,got new batterys,replaced new fuel pump (getting 40psi),replaced ipr and im getting 12 v on the harness ,added oil on the hpop,but it goes low when i cranck it,took the hose out of the head and when i crank it oil is comming out from it but weak,took out the idm and shook it no noise or water . still no start....please help me

 

Well WTF? You got me curious, so I looked at both the wife's trucks, and yeah, there's some little relay taped into the injector wiring harness running just below the GPR. I didn't get a chance to review the PSD supplement of the FSMs, but I looked through the EVTM as much as I could, and didn't see any reference to it. Really odd that a relay or other electronic component of that size would just be located in the middle of a harness, rather than on one of the fuse boxes. It doesn't appear to be a sensor or actuator or control of any kind; it's not anchored to any part of the engine. ('Course, it was very late/dark/cold/windy so I didn't spend a LOT of time inspecting it.)

If time permits, and there's enough light, I'll look to see if there's a Ford part number on one of ours; maybe we can trace it backward from there to determine WTF it is.

So you're saying the oil you put in the HPOP goes ON the engine, as in it's on top of the block in the valley? No, that's NOT normal. There's a leak up there. If you're saying it goes IN the engine, yes, remember, the HPOP just picks oil up from the lubrication system. If the HPOP reservoir keeps draining down, and it's not leaking externally into the valley, then it could just be the engine itself is very low on oil. Have you checked it?

 

This one?



If so it's the "water in fuel" amplifier, for a better lack of description.

 

Yea thats the one ,the back piece melted, do you guys think it can cause it not to start? Im gonna order it today and see if it starts

 

Yes the oil goes inside the engine cause when i checked the dip stick it was overfilled with oil.....while i was checking the ipr today i noticed that the harness was shorted and melted the skin of the wire causing to touch the second wire . What controls the ipr? Is it the idm?im thinking thats the reason why it wont start cause of the shorted ipr wire and shorted idm

 

pcm reads the icp and tells the ipr what it wants.

 

You can just unplug the "water in fuel amplifier" and the truck will run just fine so NO if won't cause a no start issue.

Common problem where you found those two wires melted. Fix the harness first then worry about replacing the "water in fuel amplifier". As mentioned above the PCM controls the IPR, not the IDM.

 

i fixed the two wires and took the amp out and still wont start .i got wts light on when i turned the key but for a few sec only. could it be the pcm thats short ? or idm issue? i ordered the idm just to try if it solves the problem
i hooked up a fuel press gauge on the shrader valve and when i crank it, it goes all the way to 42psi but drops down slowly when i stop.

thank you guys for helping me with my truck

 

PCM is probably OK because it pretty good at protecting itself when things short out. I think it's the yellow wire going to the IPR that should have 12 volts on it with the key ON. If you have a volt meter that would be an easy check. Trying another IDM certainly won't hurt anything. You need two things for the PCM to command the IDM to fire the injectors. One is a signal from the CPS sensor showing rpm and second is high pressure oil in the heads, reported by the ICP sensor. Until those two things are detected by the PCM engine will never start.

 

[quote=Hussler;10943583]PCM is probably OK because it pretty good at protecting itself when things short out. I think it's the yellow wire going to the IPR that should have 12 volts on it with the key ON. If you have a volt meter that would be an easy check. Trying another IDM certainly won't hurt anything. You need two things for the PCM to command the IDM to fire the injectors. One is a signal from the CPS sensor showing rpm and second is high pressure oil in the heads, reported by the ICP sensor. Until those two things are detected by the PCM engine will never start

i got 12 v on the yellow wire with key on ,tach moves when key on and i got brand new cps, i got oil comming out of the hose that goes to the head but not sure if its enough. how do i check if icp is workin?i tried unplugging it and tried to start and no go. im gonna wait for the idm and try that .i notice a water stain behind the idm when i took it off but shook it and no water or any noise inside

 

Sorry, I guessed wrong. Red wire to IPR should have about 12 volts and yellow wire should have about 0.25 volts with key on - engine off. If you are seeing about 12 volts on the yellow wire trace it back to the plug connection on passenger side of the fuel bowl. Either the wire is broke somewhere or the PCM might be toast, best guess here. I need to read the entire thread as I jumped in at the end, something I don't like to do.

 

i guess its the red with 12v i dint really check what color wire but 1 wire has 12v