Hey y'all,
New to this site, but in desperate need of help.
So I went to let my friend borrow my 1999 Ford f-350 7.3 Power Stroke, auto trans they other day and when they left the parking lot, it had full power everything was fine. As they accelerated and took off from the light, the service engine light came on and the truck lost major power. So they pulled back into the parking lot and let the truck idle. It sounded like the truck had lost the right hand bank completely. So I hooked it up to my scanner (Matco Micro Scanner) and tried to see what the codes were. No codes or stored codes. Called a friend who is a diesel mechanic and he told me I would be fine to limp it as is to his house. As I was driving it to his place, the service engine light went off and I gained the right hand bank back and took off. 30 seconds later, light on, bank lost. 10 minutes later, light off, power back and again, light on power loss and never again. So, I pulled the UVCH pigtail and started reading ohms and voltage. On the driver side bank (as a base test) all checked out. Injectors were reading between 2.8-3.1 ohms (according to the Ford specs, that's where they should be when not running). Checked the passenger side bank and 3 out of the 4 had ohms closer to 91.3-112.3. So I checked the glow plugs, all great. Pulled the VCG (Dorman Part #615-201) and replaced it. While I had it open, I went a head and "hijacked" the injectors one at a time and buzzed them. Worked fine. Get it all buttoned back up and re secured and cleaned the connectors with QD Electronic cleaner and di-electric grease. Checked resistance levels and now the passenger side bank is normal: 2.8-3.1 ohms. Go to fire it up, and now the truck acts like it wants to fire, but it wont. Just cranks over and no "boom" if you will. So I checked the HPOP and oil levels are fine. Pulled the ICP, rebuilt it, put it back in. Checked the IPR and the solenoid wasn't working. Yanked it out and it was super nasty, couldn't rebuild to fouled up. Replaced it, brand new (BWD#23076). Again, cleaned the connectors and so on and so forth. Go to crank it, nothing. Glow plug relay was getting hot, checked it, had severe resistance going out, so replaced that as well (BWD#GPR11). Still, have the crank, no fire. Checked fuel pressures all normal, fuel filters are clear and new. So at this point I am stuck with a truck i just dumped a grip load of money into and I am about ready to tear my hair out. Any help or suggestions? I do have a Ford Scan tool being over nighted by a friend so I will have it hooked up Tuesday.

 

Check the wire harness to the 42 pin connector where it crosses the driver side valve cover. It has been known to rub there and short out

 

I checked there, all looks and appears to be in good shape. Went ahead and cleaned it and di-electric greased it as well. And still a no go. I had someone mention to me that it may possibly be the IDM? How often do those actually crap out?

 

When you turn the key on are you getting a WTS light. Have you checked the PCM fuse?

 

I am getting the WTS light. I checked the 30 amp fuse in the fuse block underneath the driver side dash? Lower right hand corner? It appears to be fine but maybe I should swap it out just to be on the safe side.

 

What about a faulty IDM or the IDM relay being bad? Just spit balling here...

 

IIRC the buzz test will tell you if IDM is working or not. Will need the scanner for that. Do you have a chip of any kind?

 

How do I test the relay? And what is the relays location? I havent checked there yet but I will if thats what it takes....thanks

 

Okay so I dont have the correct scanner to do that, I have a friend who just overnighted one to me my current address. and negative on the chip. Eventually but not till I get this working properly

 

No chip. Was thinking unplug it if you had one. Looks like IDM relay is nbr 32 under hood and 27 is the 30 amp fuse.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-the-dash.html

 

You may have good continuity at the passenger side VC gasket when disconnected, but that doesn't always nail it. Since you have a multimeter and know how to use it, the UVCH link in my signature is worth a click.

Is that Dorman the UVCH/VC gasket one-piece? Did you verify your Dorman product is wired to the correct injectors (firing order)?

One other thing, and I'm not trying to be the grammar police or an *** - but it's easier for these old eyes if the info is broken into smaller paragraphs. Thank you for not being offended there.

 

NO problem, I will try and break it down next time the Dorman is one piece: the harness was molded into the gasket.

And based on the diagram it appears all of the Dorman stuff was to OE specs. So, without popping it and looking directly at it again, yes the firing order should be correct.

 

I swapped the IDM Relay out with the Washer Pump Relay (34 to 33, same relay) and the Washer Pump still worked. Skunked there. I guess the next step would be to pull the IDM?

 

So here is an update. Got a scan tool hooked up. and I pulled the following code: P1294. I went ahead and injector buzz tests again and the first injector pegs the Tach out at 4 grand for 5-8 seconds and then the others fire accordingly. However now when I try to monitor certain functions, the truck wont bump period now. I am getting really frustrated at this point and gonna say to hell with the truck. Any other ideas?

 

With a buzz... the first test is all injectors firing - not just number one. If you have stereo speakers or headphones on your web-surfing device, this is a good time to utilize them:


Starter not bumping?