1960 F600 Help? (With Pics!)
#1
1960 F600 Help? (With Pics!)
My in-laws 'inherited' this 1960 F600 when they bought their property. The engine seems to crank and fire just fine, but fuel was leaking out of the carb 'base plate' (whatever you call it). So we got a complete rebuild kit for the carb but it didn't have what we needed. Here's some pics of the truck...
I'm sure someone can tell me what engine this is...
Now here's the 'base plate' (as I'm going to call it that until someone corrects me)...
And here is a pic of where the vinyl sleeves were. Fuel was leaking out of the end of the rods...
So, any suggestions on how to fix this or any good place to get parts for this old of a rig?
I'm sure someone can tell me what engine this is...
Now here's the 'base plate' (as I'm going to call it that until someone corrects me)...
And here is a pic of where the vinyl sleeves were. Fuel was leaking out of the end of the rods...
So, any suggestions on how to fix this or any good place to get parts for this old of a rig?
#2
You need a throttle body shaft bushing kit. Call these guys CARBS UNLIMITED INC. carburetors including Weber Edlebrock Holley Quadrajet and they should have the kit and even a completely new throttle body if you desire. The kit will contain bronze bushings. The shaft holes will require drilling with a drill press and the new bushings tapped in with a brass/soft hammer. It also looks like the shaft in the bottom of the picture is bent. If so, replace the shaft. You can try to straighten the shaft, but it looks like the old bushings have worn grooves into the part. Carbs Unlimited should have new shafts available. Replacing the bushings and using worn shafts will result in vacuum leaks, and poor carb operation.
#4
It looks like you need the throttle shafts too, they look badly worn. You can add bushings, but my guess is it will still leak with those throttle shafts in it. I think you'd be better off buying a new carb, or at least a new base plate. What make and model is the carb?
If you choose to add brass bushing to the shaft it isn't that hard to do, just buy a special reaming tool, and install the bushings by putting a bushing on each side, put the carb in a vice and press the bushings in.
Sam
If you choose to add brass bushing to the shaft it isn't that hard to do, just buy a special reaming tool, and install the bushings by putting a bushing on each side, put the carb in a vice and press the bushings in.
Sam
#5
#6
I Forgot to answer your engine question. Unless the engine was swapped, it should be a 292 HD. If the engine is not original, as already mentioned it's either a 292 or 312 which are essentially the same. The 292 HD came with a Holley 4-barrel carb, however I'm not sure of the model number.
#7
The grooves are machined in the shafts and not from wear. They are clearly shown on both the Ford and Holley parts book illustrations. I think the bent shaft may be just a photo optical illusion. Roll it on a flat surface to check.
Your carburetor is Holley model 4150-G, Holley part No. R-2022A. The bushings are teflon, Holley Part No. 13R-490, Ford part No. B7AZ9B508A. Seven are required, 3 on the primary shaft and 4 on the secondary. Green Sales Company shows 102 in inventory.
Your carburetor is Holley model 4150-G, Holley part No. R-2022A. The bushings are teflon, Holley Part No. 13R-490, Ford part No. B7AZ9B508A. Seven are required, 3 on the primary shaft and 4 on the secondary. Green Sales Company shows 102 in inventory.
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#8
Thanks for the help guys! I do know that it is a Holley carb, but I don't know the model number. I'm guessing it's a 4150-G as Craig said; I'll verify next time I'm over there. My father-in-law has been talking about putting a cummins in it someday, so we'll probably just replace the bushings and see if that fixes it. If we can get this thing alive it will be a wood cutting truck. Oh, did I mention that it has a hydraulic dump bed? No more unloading by hand!
#9
The shafts and bushings may well be worn but they are not the cause of the gas leaking out around them.
The carb must be flooding over enough to dump gas down the throats enough to run out at the throttle shafts.
Even new carbs will do that if raw gas is dumped down the bores with the throttle plates closed.
A good cleaning and rebuild with new needle and seats and proper float settings should get it running.
Deal with the shafts and bushings as best you can. Loose shafts will allow a vacuum leak that will effect idling somewhat but shouldn't be a big issue.
The carb must be flooding over enough to dump gas down the throats enough to run out at the throttle shafts.
Even new carbs will do that if raw gas is dumped down the bores with the throttle plates closed.
A good cleaning and rebuild with new needle and seats and proper float settings should get it running.
Deal with the shafts and bushings as best you can. Loose shafts will allow a vacuum leak that will effect idling somewhat but shouldn't be a big issue.
#10
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The shafts and bushings may well be worn but they are not the cause of the gas leaking out around them.
The carb must be flooding over enough to dump gas down the throats enough to run out at the throttle shafts.
Even new carbs will do that if raw gas is dumped down the bores with the throttle plates closed.
A good cleaning and rebuild with new needle and seats and proper float settings should get it running.
Deal with the shafts and bushings as best you can. Loose shafts will allow a vacuum leak that will effect idling somewhat but shouldn't be a big issue.
The carb must be flooding over enough to dump gas down the throats enough to run out at the throttle shafts.
Even new carbs will do that if raw gas is dumped down the bores with the throttle plates closed.
A good cleaning and rebuild with new needle and seats and proper float settings should get it running.
Deal with the shafts and bushings as best you can. Loose shafts will allow a vacuum leak that will effect idling somewhat but shouldn't be a big issue.
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