I've painted all sorts of things for many years - I've had good success using Black Diamond extra fine grit media, but you have to get used to how to apply. It's a coal slag product, more to the lines of a sharp edged material, like regular sandblasting sand, not as forgiving as baking soda, but for me its fast and not expensive at about $8/50lbs. I also like using it because I don't have to neutralize anything - that can bite you later if you are not very thorough. I have a pallet of Black Diamond from my local Tractor Supply store and I'm using it on my current F150 rebuild. Distance and pressure make all the difference to avoid any issues with the metal surface. I would not recommend it to a first-timer unless you get used to doing some blasting on other stuff first.

My particular application (yours may vary:

The PO had painted directly over the factory paint with a cheap single stage something or other enamel paint. And I mean directly, doesn't even look scuffed under there I need to get that cover paint off and get down to the base color. I don't need to get to bare metal. My compressor runs at 125 psi with plenty of cfm, so I turn the pressure pot down to about 90 psi for paint removal. I keep the blaster tip at least a foot away from the surface and keep it at an angle to lessen the hit on the surface. It's very controllable but you have to pay attention and keep moving. Final result is removal of the cover paint with a slight grain left on the OEM paint surface.

The body is very solid, only a couple of small rust spots that are of course taken to bare metal. I then go over the OEM paint with a 400 grit orbital palm sander - its quick and takes the grain down to a smooth surface.
This is followed by a skim coat (body filler) where needed, then a sanding primer so I can block the surface out. Sometimes this takes several times. When I'm happy with the body and ready to paint, I will use a primer-sealer over everything, followed by base/clear. All in between wipe-downs are with PPG DX330 or similar product. I only use PPG products, not because there is nothing else out there but because for me I'm used to them and they are very consistent quality.
For wet-sanding I use 1000-1500 paper, followed by 2 steps of buffing with 2 different cutting/polishing compounds, then a final application of 3M glaze. I use a hardener in the topcoats so the wet-sanding/buffing can be done within a week of final paint.

I will be posting up pics and info on all this in my resto thread below, but I wanted to offer my 2cents on the entire process, not just the blasting, because it is all related. Others will have different methods that work too

 

Good info there Steel Toy. I can't wait to see this process with your build thread all written out and with pics.

 

Steeltoy did you say you can get it at tractor supply?Thanks for the input great info

 

thanks for the input Devino great info

 

had my '78 crewcab bead blasted with plastic beads, very similar to soda but without the mess. Did the whole stripped down truck cab (inside and outside) and box for less than $1000. That included INSIDE the doors (he left the factory undercoating inside the door, just removed the paint!). It was all very clean after the guy was done with it and looks spectacular now it's painted.

 

Thats cool. Im going to look into that plastic media blasting if you can send some pics

 

Yes, I get the black diamond media at tractor supply. I had to ask them to get the extra fine stuff, most of the time they will at least have regular or fine on hand.
One additional comment - as johaner78 mentioned, the plastic beads are great. I would use them over soda anytime. The only reason I don't is cost of material. If you are not used to doing this, IMO the plastic is a great choice.