Cant get it to idle
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Cant get it to idle
So I have been trying to get this 65 f100 with a 300 straight 6 started.
I have replaced the carb with a reman
cleaned the fuel lines
replaced the fuel pump
emptied and replaced the fuel in the tank
If I back out the fuel air really far screw and hold down the gas, choke open i can get it started but I have to keep it revved up. The second I let off the gas it dies. Smokes out the back looks white. I was able to get a really rough idle sometimes with the fuel air screw out 3 1/2 turns and the choke partially closed. It would go for a bit then die or if I revved it, it would suck air then rev. 3 1/2 turns seems really far. I checked to make sure gas is flowing out of the pump and it has good pressure. Am I correct to say that this is a fuel air issue? I haven't gone into the timing/ ignition yet other than putting in new plugs. At this point I want to back track and start over to make sure I didn't miss anything but want to see if any of you have some ideas on what to do.
Thanks
I have replaced the carb with a reman
cleaned the fuel lines
replaced the fuel pump
emptied and replaced the fuel in the tank
If I back out the fuel air really far screw and hold down the gas, choke open i can get it started but I have to keep it revved up. The second I let off the gas it dies. Smokes out the back looks white. I was able to get a really rough idle sometimes with the fuel air screw out 3 1/2 turns and the choke partially closed. It would go for a bit then die or if I revved it, it would suck air then rev. 3 1/2 turns seems really far. I checked to make sure gas is flowing out of the pump and it has good pressure. Am I correct to say that this is a fuel air issue? I haven't gone into the timing/ ignition yet other than putting in new plugs. At this point I want to back track and start over to make sure I didn't miss anything but want to see if any of you have some ideas on what to do.
Thanks
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
So I have been trying to get this 65 f100 with a 300 straight 6 started.
I have replaced the carb with a reman
cleaned the fuel lines
replaced the fuel pump
emptied and replaced the fuel in the tank
If I back out the fuel air really far screw and hold down the gas, choke open i can get it started but I have to keep it revved up. The second I let off the gas it dies. Smokes out the back looks white. I was able to get a really rough idle sometimes with the fuel air screw out 3 1/2 turns and the choke partially closed. It would go for a bit then die or if I revved it, it would suck air then rev. 3 1/2 turns seems really far. I checked to make sure gas is flowing out of the pump and it has good pressure. Am I correct to say that this is a fuel air issue? I haven't gone into the timing/ ignition yet other than putting in new plugs. At this point I want to back track and start over to make sure I didn't miss anything but want to see if any of you have some ideas on what to do.
Thanks
I have replaced the carb with a reman
cleaned the fuel lines
replaced the fuel pump
emptied and replaced the fuel in the tank
If I back out the fuel air really far screw and hold down the gas, choke open i can get it started but I have to keep it revved up. The second I let off the gas it dies. Smokes out the back looks white. I was able to get a really rough idle sometimes with the fuel air screw out 3 1/2 turns and the choke partially closed. It would go for a bit then die or if I revved it, it would suck air then rev. 3 1/2 turns seems really far. I checked to make sure gas is flowing out of the pump and it has good pressure. Am I correct to say that this is a fuel air issue? I haven't gone into the timing/ ignition yet other than putting in new plugs. At this point I want to back track and start over to make sure I didn't miss anything but want to see if any of you have some ideas on what to do.
Thanks
Posting Guru
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
Thanks ShortWide, and also check the brake vacuum line if so equipped, and the check valve for the brake system if so equipped.
Don't just look at the lines put vacuum to them , even if it means sucking on them or blowing air into them.... I-6's are known for cracking intake manifolds due to how close they are to the exhaust manifold...ie; heat from exhaust transferring up to the intake, then being shot with cold fuel and air... that can crack cast iron! Look very carefully!
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
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Most of the automotive knowledge I have, I've gotten from rolling up the sleeves and diving in.....making mistakes, fixing mistakes, doing things right occasionally, etc.
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Manifold off
Hey Jetcopter, sorry for not replying, I haven't been on the board for a month and haven't worked on the truck in that amount of time either. I drive from LA to Fresno to help out my dad and work on the truck whenever I can. Not to much fun working in the Valley heat but I finally got a chance to pull the intake manifold off today. The gasket was crumbling and does anyone know what this is inside of the exhaust manifold? Whatever it is its crumbling too.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Chico, Ca.
It looks like a heat riser valve. Is there a spring on one side? I believe it's designed to be closed at startup and then open as the engine warms. I have one on my 390 that is stuck open. If yours doesn't move freely and is in the closed position as it appears to be, you have a restriction in your exhaust which can cause problems. Good luck.
Kurt
Kurt
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
Yes I concur with the previous post's! it is a heat valve, I would cut it out, but make sure that you seal the openings for the shaft, on either side a simple nut and bolt embedded in some JB weld to seal those little holes should do the trick. Or just break out the butterfly. It will give you better exhaust flow, which is always a good thing, unless it is s leak! : ) Exhaust leaks while not as bad as intake leaks can still cause a world of trouble
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