cab swap question
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 117
From: starship enterprise
cab swap question
I found a clean 77 AC 3/4 ton 4x4 cab and I was going to put it onto my 78 f250 4x4. Anyone have any advice on this? I have swapped a bump side cab before and it didn't go the smoothest. I have access to a tractor with a front loader, or jacks, or a come along hooked to the header of the shop. We used the front end loader last time. Any advice on this for a dent side? And also is there any difference in the cabs that couse the mounts to not line up? Thanks.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 5
From: Near St. Joseph,MO
I'm in the middle of it right now on a Scab. The way I did it was to remove the bed, and all of the rearend. I then disconnected everything between the frame and cab (bolts, wires, cables, shifters, etc). Once I had it all apart, I lowered the rear of the frame to the ground, while at the same time putting jackstands under the four corners of the cab so it would stay in the air. Then it was just a matter of pulling the frame out with my other truck. Just did it tonight. When I put the other cab on, it will be the same way. Donor truck will get the same treatment, then when that frame is pulled out from under, I'll push my frame back under and jack it up into place. I've done a couple cars this way and it's the easiest I've found to be able to do it myself. 
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 10
From: Indiana, PA
The only difference in the cabs mounts is if the 77 is a highboy which it might be, is that you will need to redrill the rear mounts in narrower. It is a really simple job, just measure twice. Like I said though you`ll only if at all need to redrill the rear mounts, the front are the same (73-79). As for taking it off the tractor would be the simplest, just be careful not to ruin the cab like I have seen a lot of idiots do.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 117
From: starship enterprise
Hows the best way to hoist the cab? I used some timbers underneath the doors and hooked straps to the timbers then hoisted the straps with the loader. I ran a little short on lift to get the cab high enough. It worked, but the 78 has a 4 in lift and I might have to pull the wheels and put the rotors on the ground. Keep chiming in I'll come up something.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,674
Likes: 16
From: Ideeho
If you are just doing the cab (with the nose sheetmetal detached) The best way I have found is to open the doors, run a good stout 4x4 thru the doors, have a buddy help you hold it up to the top of the door frame just behind where the top and front portion of the frame come together. Have your loader or lifting device already in place. Then you ca run a chain or nylon strap over the top of the cab to each end of the 4x4. Hook it to what ever you are going to use to lift it and just take up the slack in the chain or strap. Nail a 2x4 cleat to the top side of the 4x4 to prevent the chain or strap from sliding in and crushing your drip rails. You can also pad the 4x4 with some old carpet if you like. I have also put some 1x2 blocks on top of the 4x4 to help prevent damaging the drip rail. I have moved several cabs around this way and never damaged any of them. They balance out pretty good if you put the 4x4 pretty much as far forward as you can. Good luck!!!!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 117
From: starship enterprise
that sounds like a pretty good approach.Let me clarify: Open the doors? I was told to make sure the doors were on the cab and closed for the extra support. This sounds good to me but you do have to make sure the 4x4 is as close to the front support as possiblr, right? I think this will work it sounds pretty good to me. thanks for the advice.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,674
Likes: 16
From: Ideeho
Yeah, I always have the doors open. You might want to bungee them tight against the 4x4 to keep em from swinging and getting things off balance. And yes, the 4x4 needs to be just behind the front pillar. You may want to just start picking up on it slowly and re-adjust. But it is fairly close to the front pillar, at the most 2"-3" back. Your center of gravity will change slightly depending on whether you have the seat in it, the dash removed etc. but you get the idea.............Also, if you block things correctly, You wont bend anything, the door openings are pretty strong right under the drip rails. Like I said, I've done several this way and never bent anything. Ive even just used a 4" strap and some "creative blocking" to move them without the 4x4 and have never damaged one. But the 4x4 works best.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 341
Likes: 1
From: Lingle, Wyoming
I'm with PEB on this. Just make sure you check to be certain that when you lift with the tractor, you won't pull the cab into the front end of the tractor. I missed this once, and as the cab went up it got closer to the tractor. From where I was sitting on the tractor, I did not notice that I was destroying the door until it was WAY too late
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,674
Likes: 16
From: Ideeho
I'm with PEB on this. Just make sure you check to be certain that when you lift with the tractor, you won't pull the cab into the front end of the tractor. I missed this once, and as the cab went up it got closer to the tractor. From where I was sitting on the tractor, I did not notice that I was destroying the door until it was WAY too late
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 117
From: starship enterprise
I think I might try this. Is there a good way to liftthe cab and front clip all at once? This looks to me almost counter productive since the front clip needs aligned anyway. I think I will detach the front clip and do just the cab. The one we swapped we did get the top of the cab into the loader and dented it because we ran out of lift and the cab was on a severe angle to the forks.
Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 341
Likes: 1
From: Lingle, Wyoming
On my second attempt, I picked up a pair of 4X4X12s which I set side by sidein the center of the bucket. The top edge of my tractor bucket has a lip, which I used to pin the 4X4's into against the leading edge of the bucket from a to c (sorry for the lousy keyboard drawing) That gave me LOTS of room for the swing angle
_______
/a \
\
\
\
/
/
c____________/
PEB, luckily That door was mostly rotted or I would have been crushed. Since then I take them off!
_______
/a \
\
\
\
/
/
c____________/
PEB, luckily That door was mostly rotted or I would have been crushed. Since then I take them off!
Senior User
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 341
Likes: 1
From: Lingle, Wyoming
well now I'm really sorry about the lousy drawing!! WTF? "a" is at the top edge, all the slashes were supposed to outline the bucket profile, and "C" is the front of the bucket lip. such is my luck!! oh well
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