Corrosive Coolant?? -Help !!
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 138
Likes: 4
From: NE Oklahoma
Corrosive Coolant?? -Help !!
Could sure use some advice on this one! I was looking over the engine of my '50 F1 today and I noticed a small leak at the clamped junction of the top heater hose and the 90 degree elbow fitting out of the top of the intake. Pulled the hose and the pictures show what I found. The fitting was badly corroded and totally clogged with a black sludge (I presume the remains of the corroded metal). No sign of the sludge below the fitting in the intake.
The engine is an early 289 and hasn't shown any signs of running hot. The intake is an Edelbrock Performer. Changed coolant about a year ago. I've known the truck's heater control valve has been inoperative since last fall (I know, I know, should've changed it out then) and I'm guessing that only made the problem worse.
Here are my questions: 1. Any guesses as to why the fitting would corrode like that? 2. Given what seems like a large amount of deposit in the heater line, should I change out the both heater lines or just give the cooling system a thorough flush (after changing heater control valve) and go on?
Any advice or thoughts on this one would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Ken
The engine is an early 289 and hasn't shown any signs of running hot. The intake is an Edelbrock Performer. Changed coolant about a year ago. I've known the truck's heater control valve has been inoperative since last fall (I know, I know, should've changed it out then) and I'm guessing that only made the problem worse.
Here are my questions: 1. Any guesses as to why the fitting would corrode like that? 2. Given what seems like a large amount of deposit in the heater line, should I change out the both heater lines or just give the cooling system a thorough flush (after changing heater control valve) and go on?
Any advice or thoughts on this one would be appreciated. Thanks.
-Ken
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,296
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
It could be from galvanic action between the aluminum manifold and the steel fitting. If you aren't using one of the more "modern" antifreezes, you should probably switch to one. Make sure the heater core doesn't look the same!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,296
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
It's a strange thing, I had a Mustang that ate heater cores made of brass. No issues on the steel tubing feeding it. The coolant is the conductor, between two different metals. Hard to predict where it will attack. Is your heater core brass or aluminum?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 138
Likes: 4
From: NE Oklahoma
The coolant being the conductor makes sense. I'm unsure of the heater core metal ... its a Vintage Air Unit. How far would you all go to get rid of any other solids / contaminants in the coolant ... do you think a good flush would do the trick?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,183
Likes: 4,791
From: Burbank, WA
OTOH, it may not be as clogged as you think. Those OEM heater hose fittings for the 289 have a small opening in them to act as a restrictor, to keep the majority of the water flow going through the cooling system, and to reduce water noises in the heater system inside the car.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: NE Oklahoma
Wayne, I learn something new every time I check in here ... thanks. I should've taken a picture of the hole in the threaded end before I poked around on it... if my arteries look like that I'm a goner tomorrow!! Totally plugged.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,183
Likes: 4,791
From: Burbank, WA
Since you do have that much junk in it, I would opt for a full cooling system flush and hose replacement.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2008
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what wayne said!! remove the hoses from rad, flush that sucker until clean. do the same to the block. suggest that thermostat be removed first. might not hurt to use a chemical cleaner in system first, before you drain, to help loosen stuff up. well water will cause this quicker than you think. if you have any other fittings on system, check these thoroughly! including the thermostat housing.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 138
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From: NE Oklahoma
Wayne / Petey .... I do appreciate all the input. I'm taking the advice and going to tackle the bigger job entailed with a good flush and more thorough inspection and replacement as needed. -Ken
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 751
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From: orange county, ca.
what about this, I've never used one but with the vintage edelbrock intake in going to use I'm thinking of it now.
Truck Radiator Cooling System Radiator Cap Photo 11
Truck Radiator Cooling System Radiator Cap Photo 11
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 138
Likes: 4
From: NE Oklahoma
Darn, I've got to get out more. I didn't know they made such a thing but I'm gettin one! Good idea. I know sacrificial anodes are standard equipment for outboard motors and other metallic devices challenged by galvanic action. Don't know why that wouldn't work great for an engines cooling system.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
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From: Morgan Hill, CA
I'm not so sure on the distilled water, but well water can contain a lot of iron and will accellerate the galvanic action with steel and aluminum parts. At the very least, use soft water that has the minerals like iron removed. If the problem is really bad, use pure coolant instead of the 50/50 mix. Pure coolant won't conduct as much heat as a water mix, so you'd notice that your temp gauge will be a little higher. Some of my co-workers did a study on coolant systems for large cutting machines. They cut up a lot of fittings and found that the corrosion was worse at the elbow joints, so it could be that the problem you're seeing is limited to that one fitting. You can also put one of these filters in line: Tefba Coolant Filters for Classic and Performance Cars and Trucks