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I once rebuilt mine and replaced a rusted centering spring, but it's a PITA and still likely to break. I swapped my A/C control for an '88, so I lost that switch anyway. I put in a later ('92-96) t/g switch and spliced in a connector to fit it - they're a much better internal design. Right now, the switch just hangs below the dash, but I've cut out the storage pocket to the R of the column and I'm going to add a switch panel there for that, the defrost, and my vacuum gauge.
OK, I think from reading all of the posts that my case wasn't covered...the tailgate window goes up and down fine with the dash switch, but the keyswitch on the tailgate does nothing. So I know the motor is fine, but how do I check to see where the problem lies? In the wiring on the key switch? Safety latch? Where is it? I'm no good with electrical stuff but if it's explained easy enough, I can follow along. Any help would be appreciated!
If the window still operates with one switch but not the other, you can rule out the interlock safety switch. Each switch to activate the window is on a seperate circuit. I beleive the circuits are protected by circuit breakers rather than fuses. I'd check the CB's first. If they check out, move on to the tailgate wiring itself. Start by checking to see if you have power coming to the keyswitches yes there are two. One for "up" and one for "down". Then its a matter of getting power through those switches to the motor. A good wiring diagram or even the disassembly photos in Steve83's signature link should help.
There's only one t/g window circuit, but it has 2 power supplies. One is always hot for the t/g key switch, and the other is switched by the ignition for the dash switch. Both are in the dash fuse block. There are 2 wires running between the switches, and the ground is from the dash switch.
If the t/g switch doesn't work, it's probably purely mechanical. There's a paddle attached (or in your case, maybe not ) to the back of the t/g lock cylinder that swings around to push the switch buttons. You can see it in pic #19 of my t/g photo album called "Latch & Switch 2". If it's bent, broken, or missing, the key will just spin forever. Does yours keep turning, or do you feel it stop at 90° up and 90° down?
I can see where it makes contact with both the up and down posts on the switch inside, the key does not just spin. How do I find out whether or not the switch is getting juice or if the problem is elsewhere? By the way thanks for all of you guys' input.
Put a voltmeter on the wire in the L taillight area that comes from the breaker while you're trying the key. If it shows a good solid 12-15V the whole time, the switch is either bypassed or really messed up. If it shows 0V the whole time, there's a problem with that power supply. If it drops from 12V to 0V when you hit the switch, you have a bad connection.
OK, sorry I hadn't gotten back with ya, been busy with my idle problem (that is fixed!). Now where back near the taillight do I check with the voltmeter? I'm not that great with electrical stuff so the easier the step by step instructions the better. I'm just afraid that I'll have to rewire a new switch in there and they are $$ unless I can find one at a salvage yard. Eh, first I need to find out what is wrong. thanks!
This is an ancient thread! The interlock is a safety switch attached to the driver's side tailgate latch that allow the window motor to run ONLY when the tailgate is fully closed. You can by pass it temporarily to determine if the problem lies at this switch or the window motor is shot.
Got the same issue. Have already replaced the motor 2 times (last time about 6 years ago). Truck has set unused for about 4 yrs and can't get the window to come down now. Already tried bypassing the motor and safety switches. Tried manually to release the safety rod and pull the window down physically... no budge. Assuming regulator might be seized?
Does the engine sound when you try to lower the window? i would check if the engine is working and getting power. but yeah, easier steps first: open the internal panel to the tailgate, use some WD-40, and also a hammer, you won't hit hard, just make the system vibrate a little, so if it's stuck, it releases itself (maybe there is some rust inside wich prevents the window from working properly). If the hitting/lubing doesn't work, go for the electric parts.
The window regulator will not let the window come down manually no matter how hard you pull on it. You would have to remove the window motor to allow the regulator to release the window manually. The reason is the worm drive in the window motor gearhead.