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first someone half azz'd the wiring so thats got to go
when replaced use water proof connectors relpace the weather stips round the windows this is 99% of the rust and electrial problems any push sonnectors should have di-electic grease in them
first chec the motor jump wire it quickly in place
then remove it and hook it up 2 the battery any movement
clean the gears out and refill w/ good quility grease
i used fomoco black and ran all new water"proof" wiring to a new blade fuse block(78 bronco)
Thanks guys for the motivation on the rear window. I just reinstalled the key switch that I literally ripped out when troubleshooting the non-op of the rear window. It is the little things in life that makes us humans happy...woohoo
remove the motor clean the gears(no solvents?) repack with grease
clean and grease the mechinism check or re-wire the switches
remember to use only shrink connectors and use dielectric grease on any plug in connectors
put a new seal/weather belt (tailgate>>glass) jeffs bronco graveyard
like i said i replaced all the wireing from a new fuse box or could of used a in-line blade fuse
i was worryed about the availability of glass fuses/if i carry them in my tool box they could break
Can someone explain in detail how to get to the safety interlock switch and what to do to short it out? My rear window has had the same problem and I would like to disable that switch for good. Thanks.
It's been about five years since I've done it, but there's not a lot of detail to give you.
With the window up, remove the access panel on the tailgate. Inside the tailgate, on the driver's side, there will be a white-colored plastic piece (the switch) with a two-wire connector coming out of it. Unhook the connector from the switch. Take a short (2 inches should be fine) length of wire and put a spade connector on each end. Use this to short out the connector. You're done.
Hey guys, sorry I didnt get to it sooner but its been real busy the last couple of weeks. Anyway, about the tailgate window. The only thing I found to work was to run a hot wire and ground wire right to the connectors that are on the end of the wires coming directly off the window motor. This made the window go down, reversing made the window go up. I am happy that I can now get it up and down, but now I need to find a better, more permanent solution, thanks to everyone who replied.
There has got to be a better way. Have you checked for continuity between the dash switch and the wires that go to the motor? If you get continuity between the wires at the motor when the switch is pressed either way, then there's something else wrong. Did you find the safety switch that we've been talking about that will prevent you from raising/lowering the window when the tailgate is down? That's what you need to bypass for a permanent solution. It may be in a different place on your 82 then the 90 models we've been talking about, but there should be one in there.
More than likely it is the interlock inside the tailgate. As just posted open the tailgate access and right next to the ket switch there is a 2 wire connector. Disconnect it and short across the one end that is wired to the tailgate, then try your switch or keyswitch.
Having just read this entire thread, I know the answer to my question is hidden here somewhere. My '82 will usually open/close with either the dash control or the tailgate key. Occaisionally the TG switch will raise the window, but not lower it. When this happens, the dash lever is my solution (always works). I'm guessing it's most likely my keyswitch - right...???
I've done the panel removal with the gate & glass up. I reduced the number of "bottom" screws I put back in and was glad I left them out the next time I had to R & R. What a pain...amen to the inventors of the offset screwdriver & wd-40. I also drilled a small hole in the "perfect "spot so I can release the TG latch with screwdiver if/when the connecting rod slips out. Customized...it's much easier to remove that panel with the TG down.
Why does it (window down/latch failure) always seem to happen at (bow)hunting camp when the back is loaded to the top with only a "rear-view hole" for driving? It's not karma - I shoot mostly with my camera (so far).
It's actually more likely the dash switch not re-centering. Next time the t/g switch doesn't work, either wiggle the dash switch or have someone else do it while you hold the t/g switch and see if the motor kicks in.
ok, did ur window just all of a sudden not work or did it slowly die? well ill tell u my story.... my window was strugglin and it started doin this gradually.... and then it wouldnt work at all so i took out the motor and pulled up the window every time i needed it up, surpprisingly it stayed up even when muddin....anywho i bought a new motor thinkin that was it, wrong i was out 50 bucks. (crazy how such a little part can cost so much) well i tested the old motor and the new one and the new one obviously worked better and i use my window alot so i kept it. i tested the wires comin back to the motor-nothing, not a single volt. so i got sick of not having a motor that worked so i basically rewired the motor from the switch in the dash to the motor. it wasnt hard just kinda time consuming. oh yeh...does ur defrost work? bc i think the wires just went bad on my motor and my defrost doesnt work and im thinkin its the wires there too. hope i was helpful
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