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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 08:16 AM
  #1  
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f-250diesel
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From: denver
stage 2's

well i was thinking about some stage two's, i have herd you should not put them in with a stock turbo is this right, I had a turbo put in my truck a couples years ago but it is not factory so could i still use stage 2's or do i need a bigger turbo?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 09:22 AM
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Many people have IIs and a stock turbo and doo OK with it. The turbos do not last as long as they should though with stage IIs. My turbo took a crap after about 3 months of running them but I know others have lasted longer. here it what it looks like when they go haha
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-downpipe.html
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 09:26 AM
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I would definitely get injectors, they make it a whole new truck but that comes with a price. you start finding weak links in you truck and once you fix one you find another. My tranny went after 2 weeks with IIs but it was already on its way out long before them. Then my turbo after 3 or so months. So make sure your willing to find the weak links if you get them.

Also with IIs you need to get a HPOP. I got a SD one on mine and I still throw a CEL at WOT.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 11:57 AM
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Are you running stock or stage 1's now?

As mentioned, stage 2 injectors require quite a bit of supporting mods vs
stage 1's. You can run stage 1's and keep everything else pretty much stock.

Stage 2's and you're looking at HPOP, Fuel, Turbo, Intercooler, and are border line for needing head studs & valve springs.

There is a current thread about a guy that just blew his stock turbo running stage 2's.

On edit: LOL, it's 93F1505.0L thread!
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BadDogPSD
On edit: LOL, it's 93F1505.0L thread!
Haha ya they take their toll on everything. Like I said dont get IIs unless you want to spend the money on everythign else.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 03:08 PM
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A set of 180/100 "stage 2's" would be fine on the stock turbo, a little hard on the stock fuel pump and depending on the health of your stock HPOP could need a 17* pump to run good at WOT.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 06:18 PM
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From: denver
Rite now i am running just stock i have not been into that kind of stuff on the truck so far just did the turbo, exsost cold air intake and i had my ZF rebuilt pretty much the first basic i guess you could say i think i am going to look into getting stage ones for now since i realy dont want to get into another turbo or tranny. I know it is a pretty big job but how long do injectors take to put in?? I was thinking an all day job maybe two.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 07:03 PM
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Need to find yourself a friend who is a diesel mechanic.

I paid my friend to put new O-rings on my injectors and it was done FAST. I handed him tools and he made it happen. Now that I saw how easy it was, I think I could do it myself. But paying him to do it is much safer.

Just take your time, stay organized, keep everything clean and read up on how it's done.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by f-250diesel
Rite now i am running just stock i have not been into that kind of stuff on the truck so far just did the turbo, exsost cold air intake and i had my ZF rebuilt pretty much the first basic i guess you could say i think i am going to look into getting stage ones for now since i realy dont want to get into another turbo or tranny. I know it is a pretty big job but how long do injectors take to put in?? I was thinking an all day job maybe two.
It's actually very easy to do.. and very easy to screw up! There are several very good write-ups out there. I recommend you search the forum and maybe do a google search, read a few of the 'how-to's' and then decide if it's something you want to tackle. I think it takes more time to remove everything to get to the injectors than is does to actually do the swap.

A couple of the basic tips are:
- Either vacuum the oil/fuel out of each cylinder after you remove the old injector, or crank the engine to blow the oil/fuel out prior to installing the new injector. You don't want any residual oil/fuel in the chamber as it could cause your engine to hydralock. (prefer to vacuum).
- Lube the orings with assembly lube or oil. Give them a good coating, but you don't want it dripping off (it ends up in the combustion chamber)
- Always use new orings.
- Check to make sure the old copper washer on the injector tip comes out with the old injector, and make sure the copper washer on the new injector is in place when intalling the new one.

I hate to even say how long it would take as we each have different abilities and work at different paces. For me, I'd plan on a weekend
 
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BadDogPSD
It's actually very easy to do.. and very easy to screw up! There are several very good write-ups out there. I recommend you search the forum and maybe do a google search, read a few of the 'how-to's' and then decide if it's something you want to tackle. I think it takes more time to remove everything to get to the injectors than is does to actually do the swap.

A couple of the basic tips are:
- Either vacuum the oil/fuel out of each cylinder after you remove the old injector, or crank the engine to blow the oil/fuel out prior to installing the new injector. You don't want any residual oil/fuel in the chamber as it could cause your engine to hydralock. (prefer to vacuum).
- Lube the orings with assembly lube or oil. Give them a good coating, but you don't want it dripping off (it ends up in the combustion chamber)
- Always use new orings.
- Check to make sure the old copper washer on the injector tip comes out with the old injector, and make sure the copper washer on the new injector is in place when intalling the new one.

I hate to even say how long it would take as we each have different abilities and work at different paces. For me, I'd plan on a weekend

DO NOT CRANK the motor without the new injectors in place... You will slimply pump more oil out of the rails and into the fuel and cylinders...

Remove valve covers

Remove all glow plugs

Remove #7 and #8 injectors and wait a few minutes

Remove remaining injectors

Check to insure all coppers came out with there injectors

If your new injectors did not come with pre-installed o-rings do this now and wait 30 minutes after installing them.

Dip each one in a cup of motor oil

Install using a dead blow hammer to seat them fully

TQ to spec

Check for flatness with a straight edge or level. They should all be at the same height.

Install valve covers with one or two bolts.

Crank by hand or bump the starter selionid (passanger side fender well)- Bump bump bump bump (you will hear the oil spraying out) then give it a good 10 second crank.

Remove valve covers, install glow plugs and wire harness

Button everything up and start.

easy cheesey.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 06:45 PM
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Good catch CSI! Thanks for the correction. Glowplugs, not injectors!
 
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 11:21 AM
  #12  
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From: denver
Well thanks guys i think i can do it and i have the tools so i think i will be ok i have been reading up on it for a while now and now i have the info in this thread also so thanks i think i am going to get some maintenance done on it first, i took it in because it would not pass emissions and it ended up passing after i put in new filters and switched to shell rotella synthetic. They also said that my anti freeze is old and needs to be flushed and a few other things need to be maintained so those things first and then new injectors thanks for all the info.
 
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