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P1316 code & no start

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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 10:09 PM
  #16  
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10.99 volts? Is that while cranking or just with the key on?
10.99v is what the ae read with key on, not cranking with GPR connected.
Buzz test is under the "Test OnBoard Systems" tab.
I think I tried the test under that tab, but didn't see Buzz test thanks..
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 12:18 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by edroe
10.99 volts? Is that while cranking or just with the key on?
10.99v is what the ae read with key on, not cranking with GPR connected.
Buzz test is under the "Test OnBoard Systems" tab.
I think I tried the test under that tab, but didn't see Buzz test thanks..
You need a minimum of about 10.5 volts WHILE cranking or the IDM will not send power to the injector solenoids.


You have to click on the drop down that comes up after clickig on the Test OnBoard Systems tab. The next drop down wll list the tests. Click on Buzz Test and then click Initiate.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 04:39 PM
  #18  
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Done the buzz test, no buzz, gave dtc p1294 & p1295, did pinpoint test NA20,NA21,& NA15 Looks like bad IDM. thanks for the help on the AE, I didn't notice the drop down menu.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 04:56 PM
  #19  
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Not even a single injector buzzed?

Did you have at least 10.5 volts when you performed the Buzz Test?

 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 05:21 PM
  #20  
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No, not even 1 buzzed,just showed codes P 1294 & P1293. I had charger hooked up and ae showed 10.96 volts, looks like it would have been more, with the charger hooked to the right side battery. thanks
 
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 06:03 PM
  #21  
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Keep us posted on the out come. Chet
 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 07:44 PM
  #22  
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I pulled the IDM & removed the cover, probably 2oz of water came out, none of the componets looks to be burnt so I'm going to try drying it out & see what happens. Drying them works with the Radio Control transmitters at work so it's worth a try. thanks for all the help.......
 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 09:43 PM
  #23  
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It should have been sealed with silicon.

Most likely got wet do to a hole or crack in the fender liner. Check out that fender liner. Hope it wasn't from submersion.

Good Luck. Hope it works after drying out. Fingers crossed.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 06:12 PM
  #24  
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Drying out didn't work. Anybody had any dealings (good or bad) with Ecudiesel? They offer a reman. IDM for $129 shipped w/exchange with lifetime warranty as long as you own the truck.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 08:25 PM
  #25  
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Sorry that drying it out didn't work.

I have no knowledge about ECUDiesel. If you haven't already do a search and see what comes up.

Make sure that the IDM you do get, from wherever, is a 120 volt type and not a 100 or 110 volt. At least ECUDiesel lists all three separately and for what years. That is a plus. Any of the three wll work in your truck but the 120 is best and what is called for.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 09:18 PM
  #26  
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I couldn't find anything on ECUDIESEL,but I did find a lot of complaints on another rebuilder in FLA, so I decided to get a used IDM from junkyard.
Found one with the exact same #, installed it, injectors all buzzed, truck started and ran fine. Thanks for everyones help.....
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by edroe
I couldn't find anything on ECUDIESEL,but I did find a lot of complaints on another rebuilder in FLA, so I decided to get a used IDM from junkyard.
Found one with the exact same #, installed it, injectors all buzzed, truck started and ran fine. Thanks for everyones help.....
Good news.
IMO you are probably better off with a junkyard IDM anyway...
Glad to see you are back on the road.
 
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