Recently my '05 hasnt been starting when hot. It has been getting worse over the last month. It left me stranded once, I thought it was because it was low on fuel. I left for a bit (3-4 hours) added fuel, and it started fine. It left me stranded again, and I replaced the batteries, cause they were the original, and It started fine. Wouldnt start again, I replaced the fuel filters, and It started up. When I replaced the fuel filters, It was the shortest ammount time in between no starts.

Where is the best place to start looking? The truck will sometimes start after an extended crank. It will start to stumble and rumble like it is low on fuel...It seems like its not getting fuel on start up. Once it starts, it runs fine, it doesnt miss a beat.

What is the best place to start looking? It was thowing a code. Injector pressure something. I dont remember. I will look again when I get back to my shop.

Truck has 115k

Thanks

 

High Pressure oil leak. Time to replace standpipes and dummy plugs. If that dont fix it, you need a new STC (snap to connect) fitting! The Standpipes and Dummy Plugs have a single O Ring on them and that Oring gets thin and lets oil rush by, not getting you enough pressure too fire your injectors.

 

Thanks for the info! Any Idea on part numbers or what they are actually called? And more importantly where these things are?

 

Read this,
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...mmy-plugs.html

 

Too add too this: I dont remember the tools needed, but I had too remove my oil rail on the passenger side to remove and install the standpipe. They are 2 piece, and the bottom half stayed in. For that job, (removing the oil rail, and because there was'nt alot of room) I needed a gear wrench that fit in the torx bit. Be very careful not too drop anything, tools, screws, etc, into the engine. Originally Posted by 2006lariat
Hi Cheezit,

My name is Adam, and my 2006 6.0 is having very long cranks when hot. I was wondering, in your expert opinion if,
there's a way for the everyday, backyard mechanic to properly diagnose the hpop system?
So far I have cleaned the Egr, always use cetane booster, I have a new (as of March) FICM, new fuel filters, oil has about 2,400 miles on it. It starts right up cold, but hot it will hit and miss, and if you dont stay on the key it just sputters out. (very hard on the starter I am sure)
I stopped at my local dealer, and they said it is 50$ for a diagnostics, and if nothin was too come up, than it is 2hrs labor too test (90$ /hr)! I have no problem with these tests, but I really dont trust there mechanics, as the guy told me today problem is probably head gaskets!

O I have no scanners other than my tuner (banks 6 gun) and that is coming off this weekend!

sure is. use a inert gas such as nitrogen regulated to 150-200 psi piped to the icp port and apply 12 volts in the correct orentation to the ipr valve. remove the air box and the air intake tube on the driver side and the oil fill cap on the passanger side and listen for a leak.
now that I have covered that I will assume that unlike me you really dont have a bottle of inert gas just laying in the garage ... nor a regulator or a way to plumb it into the icp port... but in the off chance you do dont leave the voltage applied to the ipr for more then about 1.5 min at a time.
so heres what I think... I think you have a dummy plug with a failed o-ring. I would suggest removing the valve covers and removing the plugs and have a look.
If I can help some more let me know.

You are always a big help! Is there a post or area on FTE that would have instructions on how too do this? I was in the Tech section but alot of the links dont work anymore (or my computer wont open them). When I pull the valve covers, what other gaskets, do I need? Does the Turbo need too come off, Does anything else need too be removed, that I need too buy replacemant parts for? Thanks a million, I think You are the 6.0 man!

removing the valve covers is pretty stright foward. I dont really pay much mind to whats in the tech folder forgive me. Its not much use to me as I pretty well klknow all that stuff in side out.
no need to pull the turbo off to remove the vlave covers and the valve cover gaskets are reuseable. you will just need new dummy plugs. and if your going that far to look at them I would just replace them anyway as there like $35 for a pair.

Thanks a million! I will stop 2mro and get the Dummy Plugs. Is there anything (tools, or other parts) special I need? I really appriciate all your knowledge, and cant thank you enough for all you do on this site for others! Again Thank You!

you need a t30, a 10mm allen and 12mm allen socket

Hey again! I ordered Dummy Plug and stand pipe kit. Do I need anything extra too install the Standpipes? O I figured as long as I was gonna spend quality time with my 6.0, I would upgrade the fuel pressure spring too! Thanks!
Adam

off the top of my head I dont think so.

My Dummy Plug's and Stand Pipes came in yesterday(they were caught up in the storms out west). I didnt no they were a foot long, I am intimidated a little more now. I will be calling on you for help, FOR SURE now! lol Thanks for all you do! What does the springs in them do?

its a pluse dampner and check valve.

Jesus, U fella's dont get paid enough! I spent 4 1/2 hrs workin on it tonight, and only got the passenger side MOST of the way done. I still got too put the harnesses back, The boost tube, and tighten that thing with 2 plugs on it! What A PITA. Thanks for all your help!

Now you know why it cost so much money. lmao. But I will say Im not living on the poverty line just yet

so have you found a bad o-ring yet?

The front plug, had a Small spot on the Oring, but nothin that looked too serious. I hope when this is done it is fixed for awhile, cause my wife said she is done with this truck, if this dont fix it! She said it is taking too much money. Just curious, how long does this job take you?

both sides about 2.5-3 hours.

Well it is runnin, The drivers side is SOOOOOOOO much easier too work on. It took a little while to get started, but as soon as it started all sounded normal, no missin, rockin etc.. It drove fine, now if it starts easier, We will be Golden!!! The driverside half the ORing was GONE!

funny I hate doing the driverside valve cover. to much stuff in the way. I find the passanger side to be quicker... warranty pays more for the passanger side too.
being that the o-ring was damaged it should fix your concern.



Here is What a respected Tech on here told me. lol It is easier for me too give this info unedittted from my PM

 

if you can watch your ICP and IPR should be able to spot a leak in the HPOS

being an 05 could be stand pipes and dummy plugs or could be the STC fitting on top the HPOP

If the numbers on the ICP and IPR come up bad you can blow some air into it to help pin point the leak