When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I read the thread about how to test/adjust the TPS (FIPL) sensor and decided to test mine since there's not much else I can do until my injectors come in tomorrow.
It said that wire A (orange/white) is the reference wire and should have 5 volts. Wire B (black/white) is the ground path from the sensor to the trans computer and I would assume it should have 0 volts. Wire C (center wire) is the throttle opening signal sent to the computer from the sensor. It says this wire should have 1.2 volts with the throttle at idle and 4.5 with it wide open.
Well I don't have any wires that color on mine. I have a gray with orange stripe (top wire), gray with yellow stripe (center wire), and brown with white stripe (bottom wire). I tested with key on, engine off, throttle at idle. The brown and white wire (bottom wire) has 6 volts, The gray/yellow wire (center wire) has 1 volt, and the gray/orange wire (top wire) has 0 volts! What the crap?? The pics below shot the wire colors and how they line up when plugged into the sensor. My truck is a 94 7.3 IDI turbo.
The brown and white wire (bottom wire) has 6 volts,
Thats your 5V reference line. It should read the same regardless of throttle position.
Originally Posted by LSO1123
The gray/yellow wire (center wire) has 1 volt,
This is your variable signal line. This one will read roughly 1V at idle, and no higher than 4.5V at WOT. Hook up your meter with the key on and engine off, then work the pump lever slowly to observe a nice smooth transition from the 0.8~1.2V idle up to whatever your WOT reading is. Generally it can be 3.5~4.5. Not all trucks react the same way to the same setting, but in general 1V idle and 4V WOT is a good starting point.
Originally Posted by LSO1123
and the gray/orange wire (top wire) has 0 volts! What the crap??
Ground wire stayed at 0, reference voltage wire stayed at 6, throttle opening wire went from 1 at idle to 4 at wide open. I guess that means it's positioned correctly.
Unless the transmission is doing something strange with the current settings, I would leave it alone. However, you still know something about your truck that you didn't before today. Nothing wrong with a little pre emptive testing.
Well the transmission is shifting to early and not gearing down soon enough but I think it may be because my fuel injectors are so bad and its not getting enough go juice. I'll be changing them out this weekend and we'll see what happens from there.
Well the transmission is shifting to early and not gearing down soon enough but I think it may be because my fuel injectors are so bad and its not getting enough go juice. I'll be changing them out this weekend and we'll see what happens from there.
mine was just the other way around.i adjusted the tps a bit to make it hold od longer.i forget which way does what.just adjust it like .2 V at a time,until you get it where you like it.
it was probably due to having a heavy dump bed put on,that made her want to shift early.but since i drive so easy for economy anyway,there was just no need to make her find 3rd on every little ant hill lol.
you'll find while test driving,you may only get it close to your liking.so remember the torx tool and meter on your next real trip somewhere.you may find,you'll want to make another minor change or two.
go ahead.set it right up how you like it.just stay within specs.
would be kinda cool to retrofit in your rheostat for the adjust,so you can adjust it in the cab while driving.you could setup your dial with a couple markings; fuel economy (earlier shifts,holds OD latter) /normal (how one adjusts it for a all purpose use,like we must now) /tow mode (later shifts,sooner downshifts.)
maybe an easy mod.where's LCAM.
increase for increase rpms.ah thanks David.now i'll be able to remember this.
And for those running the C6, its the opposite! Higher vacuum = lower upshift RPM. That way it goes into "limp mode" in the event of a vacuum failure - which I had happen to me several times. I haven't lost a belt since switching to the E4OD however (lower cruise RPMs, maybe).