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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 09:24 PM
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From: saugerties
blinker problem

hey all have a 79 f150 recently put a flat bed on it and wired up universal tail blinker stop lights had no problem except with my front right blinker which steadily got worse. lights on nothing no right side marker no blinker, lights off blinker in the back would work but not front.then the rr light was staying lit like the brakes were being pushed. now i have no blinkers(but i have 4 ways) at all just all of the sudden but headlights work and one taillight works normal along with one brake the rite side is always lit. i had problems with that light with the original bed to begin with the only thing wierd i have set up is the reverse lights are on a switch idk if that could cause something wierd like this to happen but i have read that it could be a socket in the fr corner i have changed both flashers 4 ways and blinker all bulbs have been changed all obvious grounds have been cleaned and replaced if necessary only thin i havent checked was the blinker switch that i have to hold up to the right no more clickyness and the socket in tht crnr srry for the long post just need help this is my dd i have no power steering so hand signals really suck i have searched and all seems to lead to a tss or bulb sockets
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 06:31 AM
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I mean no disrespect, but no one can read your post when you don't use any punctuation, and you abbreviate everything like it's a text message. I started trying to read it, but got a headache, and could not make it through because it's one giant sentence.

If you would please take the time to write everything out properly such that others can read it, I myself, and many others I'm sure, will be happy to help you step through your problem. Everyone here is willing to dedicate the time to help you with your problem; as such it's also expected that you dedicate the time to communicating the issue effectively.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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From: saugerties
Sorry about the run on sentence. Alright at first with the original bed all blinkers, brake lights and running lights except the front right corner, headlight worked(still does)but no marker on the fender and no blinker below the grill. The bed was horribly rotted so i took it off and built a wooden bed, I then wired up universal tail lights like what comes on a jeep. All the lights worked fine for a while then one day i had no right blinker the green arrow stayed lit all the time like it was stuck, checked the bulb all were good as were the grounds that i knew of. Now it has progressed to the point of no blinkers at all wheather i have the light switch pulled out or pushed in no blinkers. The only thing that is wierd is that now with the lights on my right tail stays lit like im on the brake pedal.

I have checked all the grounds [U]that i know of[U] and all the bulbs are good the flashers have been replaced twice to avoid crappy parts being thrown in. Everything i have read on here leads to the socket itself or the blinker switch i don't know if it makes a difference but my reverse lights are hooked to a switch.

again sorry about my punctuation
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 06:54 PM
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My punctuation is the same
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 07:29 PM
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From: saugerties
yeah its for nerds
but i really do need help any and all
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 08:19 PM
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just had a similar problem. check the 2 flasher relays under the dash. also check the fuse. If it doesnt help, then i would look into changing the turn signal switch.

my problem was one of the flashers was bad, changed that then only had 1 brake light. swapped another turn signal switch everything works fine. the brake lights and the turn signals are both interconnected. when you turn the left or right blinker on it cancels that side of the taillight to flash for the turn signal. so if your only getting 1 brake light, then check the bulb if good, look into the switch. system is very easy.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 09:05 PM
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From: saugerties
yeah i had changed both flashers twice so blinker switch it is thank you for the help
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 07:19 AM
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No problem - much better now. How have you checked the grounds? Socket grounding issues are responsible for probably 90% of turn signal problems. The socket and wiring may look fine, but the only way to really check is by performing a continuity check between where the bulb shell grounds in the socket, and the ground on the sheetmetal of the truck using a multimeter.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 04:31 PM
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From: saugerties
i don't have those kinda tools, i mainly have regular stuff (sockets, wrenches, some air tools)but would just buying new sockets do it or is this kinda problem more in the wiring its self.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 07:17 PM
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When there's a ground issue, it's often within the socket itself and replacing the socket solves the problem. However, there are cases where the ground point itself has shifted, due to a missing ground strap or rust.

It could be the socket, it could be the switch, or something in between - obviously if you start replacing items (be it the socket, switch, etc) you will eventually replace what's bad and solve the issue - but to effectively do any kind of electrical work on an old truck (or any vehicle for that matter), a multimeter is essential. A cheap one costs less than $20 at most parts stores, Sears, etc.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 07:52 PM
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FMC has it right. If replacing the sockets doesn't work (cheap) buy a circuit tester and check the grounds. Last resort is the switch.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 10:22 PM
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From: saugerties
thanks for the help guys, im gonna start by replacing the sockets AFTER i now replace the front calipers that locked on my lol. thanks again for the help and ill be sure to buy a multimeter(circuit tester) and figure out how to use it.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 79 ranger
thanks for the help guys, im gonna start by replacing the sockets AFTER i now replace the front calipers that locked on my lol. thanks again for the help and ill be sure to buy a multimeter(circuit tester) and figure out how to use it.
They're not referring to a multimeter(although having one on hand is nice). What you need is a test light Innova/Smart Test Light checks voltage and/or ground on wiring, fuses, battery, cabling, sensors and switches (INN3420) | Test Light | AutoZone.com
 
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by devino246
They're not referring to a multimeter(although having one on hand is nice). What you need is a test light Innova/Smart Test Light checks voltage and/or ground on wiring, fuses, battery, cabling, sensors and switches (INN3420) | Test Light | AutoZone.com
No, I spoke correctly the first time. He needs a multimeter to check the resistance between the bulb shell contact point and the sheet metal ground. A test light only shows if there is signal or not. A test light can show there is signal, but won't tell you if there is enough resistance to keep the thermal flasher from conducting.

Originally Posted by fmc400
the only way to really check is by performing a continuity check between where the bulb shell grounds in the socket, and the ground on the sheetmetal of the truck using a multimeter
 
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 10:23 AM
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i have a test light and had already tried that. i dont know if i was touching the wrong places but nothing happened so it seemed like no power to those lights.
 
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