Preparing for T-Case Rebuild
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Preparing for T-Case Rebuild
Well it seems after about 210,000 miles my BW1356 (electric shift) is ready for a rebuild. I have always tried to not use 4lo because it grinds pretty bad when you try to disengage it. It engages fine and works good, it just grinds when you try to go back to 2wd or 4hi. We got a pretty decent amount of snow again last winter in north texas, and it started popping out of 4hi on me with increasing regularity. What type of things should I be looking for that would cause these type of symptoms? I'm not looking to spend a whole lot on this project, but I will be replacing anything that is broken or shows significant wear. I'll take the case half to get repaired if the pump "stop" is in anything less then perfect condition. I want to stick with the electric shift, but I might be interested in any reasonably priced upgrades that will strengthen the case. Any suggestions?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
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From: Bend,OR
well you can start by installing a manual case, this will be far more reliable even after your is rebuilt.
there is a pretty good tear down post over on pirate in the ford section. the guy that posted it up also sells a new fork that will add 2low which is nice.
do you still have the auto hubs?
there is a pretty good tear down post over on pirate in the ford section. the guy that posted it up also sells a new fork that will add 2low which is nice.
do you still have the auto hubs?
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I've got Warn lockouts, so I can allready do a sort of 2lo. I always wanted to do a manual 1356 swap, but the touch drive has never given me any problems. It's getting harder to find the linkage for them, it takes more time, and of course costs more $. I have done alot of research into this over the years and it seems like there are just as many issues (if not more) with the manual shift 1356's. If the motor or any of the computer stuff fails on mine, I can just unbolt the electric motor and shift it manually. Those manual ones seem to trash shift forks and other stuff that requires removal of the whole case to correct. I'm kinda thinking my problem is gonna be the 4x4 lockup clutch looking at the diagrams. I intend to at least replace the chain and pump.
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If it turns out that my current unit needs a LOT of new parts, I may just go ahead and swap in a manual unit. Junkyards around here still want 200 bucks or more for them (+ whatever needs fixed) so thats the source of my reluctance to go in that direction. If it does turn out to be the magnetic clutch it might actually be cheaper for me to go the manual route. I noticed that they have the linkage availible on JBG now if all else fails. I'm really just trying to get all my ducks in a row at this point, so I don't have too much vehicle downtime.
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