cool. sounds like ur making progress! wonderful.

 

Ok so I also went ahead and tested my FICM voltage. I know the instructions in the tech folder say to test when the engine is cold. So I drove home from work which is about ten miles and I let the truck sit for about an hour. not sure if this is enough time to cool but anyways I went ahead and tested. I initially got 47volts. Then I turned the key and got 48 volts. BUT when I turn the key back off my voltage kept dropping from the 48volts all the way down to 0 volts in less then 5 minutes. It looked like a count down. Just kept dropping and dropping until it reached 0 volts. Did I do somethimg wrong? did I not let it cool enough?

 

sounds like it was just draining residul voltage

sounds like you need to air test the HPO

or back probe the ICP sensor with a DVM

 

I was under the impression that I should always have atleast 45volts minimum whether the key is on or off.

 

theres no value when the key is off

but when key on or crank or running you want no less than 45volt 48volts great

 

Wait I am confused, I thought I read in the article that I should not crank the engine while testing this. Ill have to test again while cranking this time.

 

this out of the tech folder

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html

 

Jereli - watch the vids in post #24 of this thread.

 

From Bismic's spread sheet:
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 710pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=947 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 710pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 33472" width=947><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 21.1pt" height=28><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 21.1pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl25 height=28 width=947 align=left>PROCEDURE TO PRESSURE CHECK THE HPO SYSTEM W/ SHOP AIR (100 psig)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl24 height=18 width=947 align=left>See the video below starting about at 6:00 minutes.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl26 height=17 width=947 align=left>mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech_3_256klarge.wmv</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 95.1pt" height=127><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 95.1pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl24 height=127 width=947 align=left>How willing are you to remove the FICM, turbo, intake manifold, and the EGR cooler to get to the HPOP cover and HPOP itself for troubleshooting? Otherwise:

One way to diagnose for an HPOP leak without a teardown: Remove the ICP sensor --- use this hole to pressurize the HPO system with 100 psig air (05-07 the ICP is on the passenger side valve cover). You should use an M12x1.5 to a #4JIC fitting . You also need to have a way to send 12V power to the IPR, but only for 30 seconds or it will burn out. ALSO - be sure to remove the oil fill tube cap before applying shop air. This will prevent the possibility of overpressuring the crankcase.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl24 height=18 width=947></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 108.7pt" height=145><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 108.7pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl24 height=145 width=947 align=left>You should be able to remove the IPR harness without removing the turbo.

Remove the coolant reservoir and take the FICM and bracket off and remove the last intake bolt (and possibly the last valve cover bolt on the top edge) so you can get your hand back and unplug the IPR. Be VERY careful w/ the FICM connectors!

To command the valve - you can use an old ipr connector from an old harness wired to a cig. lighter plug and only keep it plugged in for 120 seconds (30 seconds is more desireable) not to damage the ipr. Try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness thats laying around. Red wire switched power Pin A B+; Yellow /red switched ground Pin B-.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl24 height=18 width=947></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 129.1pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=172><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 129.1pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl24 height=172 width=947 align=left>Remove the oil fill cap, remove the CCV hose that goes into the air intake from the other valve cover, take a piece of heater hose and listen in BOTH spots after applying shop air to the ICP fitting. It will take a minute to push the oil out of the oil rail before you are able to hear the air flow (note the air will flow because the IPR valve is still open). As soon as you hear the air flow, command the IPR valve to close (ONLY for 30 seconds). If you hear air coming from either one of the spots you are listening to, then it's probably a leak in one of the oil rails. If you hear air coming from BOTH sides it's probably the HPOP or STC fitting. Note - when the IPR is commanded closed, you should here a slight "POP" sound.
Also:
If IPR is at 80% while at hot idle, then you have high pressure oil leak, failed pump or a bad ipr valve.
IPR should be around 22-24% at hot idle; up to maybe 30% but that maybe a little too high.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl24 height=18 width=947></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 54.35pt" height=72><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 54.35pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class=xl24 height=72 width=947 align=left x:str="There is a hole that is situated just above the HPOP drive gear. If air is heard/felt exiting this hole when air testing, this is normal if IPR duty cycle is not commanded to 100% because that is the exhaust passage. The way to condemn a high pressure oil pump is to air test it with the turbo oil supply tube removed from the top of the oil cooler base. If air is heard/felt from this port during air testing, the high pressure oil pump is bad. ">There is a hole that is situated just above the HPOP drive gear. If air is heard/felt exiting this hole when air testing, this is normal if IPR duty cycle is not commanded to 100% because that is the exhaust passage. The way to condemn a high pressure oil pump is to air test it with the turbo oil supply tube removed from the top of the oil cooler base. If air is heard/felt from this port during air testing, the high pressure oil pump is bad. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

.

Well unfortunately that wasn't my problem but I do feel better about my filter now. This morning I'm going to do the ICP volt test and work my way back to the HPOP . I still need to rule out the low pressure oil pump. Anyone have a link for testing the low side?

 

Does it move the needle after you crank it for a few seconds? Have you checked to see if it's filling the filter housing? You'll have to manually hold the filter drain button closed.

 

Haven't done that test yet as I'm along.I'll get someone to assist me on that one.

The needle moves to the bottom of the "L" at key on and don't move any further till engine fires off. I swear I remember it moving farther while cranking in the past.
Here are my ICP readings from first crank of the morning, engine cold and using a fluke meter :
.000 key off
.244 just key on, not cranking
1.11 running at idle. This value shows at the same time enging fires off.
1.20 at approx 1000 rpm

I turn engine off, wait a couple seconds and just turn on key and get .261 crank engine and long crank time again before firing.

 

Well now I have a couple of questions. (1. How fast should the oil filter canister start fill up during the button hold down test? (2. When removing the IPR, does the coil come off first? I read about there being a 3/4 nut at the end but I don't see any on mine. Just the one on the valve itself . (3. Does my 06 HPOP have the ball Bearing on it? Alot of reference seems to be on 04 and earlier . I'm trying to get my ducks ina row before I start digging in this thing. I'm confident its a high pressure leak. My hard start problem first started as an intermediate to now constant over the past 4 months or so.

 

The low pressure pump flows 18.5 gpm, so I imagine the canister fills very fast. When removing the IPR it all comes off together, not coil first. The nut on the IPR is 35mm or 1 3/8". Your 06 doesn't have a BB on the pump it has an STC fitting that can fail. That's usually where the HPO leak occurs first, but not always. The air test is to eliminate unnecessary teardown.

 

Thanks, I would have messed that sensor up for sure.