The turbo lag is not an issue if it is a properly sized blower. The BMW 335 has 2 small blowers and it has no detectable turbo lag. I don't want to sound like a know-it-all or just be contrary, but I totally disagree with you on the power gains of your suggested mods versus a forced induction set up.

While it might be more advisable from a money and reliability standpoint to do simple mods, there will not be any noticeable power increase from tunes, bumps, headers, exhaust or CAI. If you do all of those perfectly, you *might* see a 5% power increase. More likely you'll see 5~10 hp to the rear wheels.

A very conservative blower set up with a mild tune (safe and reliable) will yield at least 30% ~40% power increase. A Miata will go from 85 RWHP to 140 RWHP with a roots blower and 5 PSI of boost. You can spend nearly $2K in headers, exhaust, CAI and tuning and maybe, maybe see 100 RWHP. With an exhaust driven turbo, you can easily get 250 RWHP from the Miata 1.6 Lt engine and safely too.

Been there, done that. I have never done any mods to a Ford L6 or V8, but they are common internal combustion engines and they'll respond the same way to forced induction as the Miata or Honda engines.

The Mazda and Honda do breathe a lot better than the old Ford L6 of V8 because they have twice as many valves per cylinder and efficient overhead cams. I imagine that is why the V8, at least, respond so well to better heads and cams. But a blower solves all that by pushing the mixture of air and fuel into the engine by force.

Like I said, it might be more economical and more advisable to stick to minor mods, but be aware that the power increase will be miniscule in comparison

 

i was not saying that doing the other mods is better for power.. just that is its more reliable in the long run..and in order to do a turbo you have to change so much of the engine to make it actually work right it is a huge investment..and if you want to see any real gains in power you need to forged the internals other wise you cant run more than 5psi of bosst with out risking serious damage..even then you have no idea ho long you can run on stock interneals before they blow up and they will..

super chargers would still be a better way to go if you want instant power.. it has been proven time and again plust they are more reliable than a turbo set up. turbos still need t spool up to build boost.. over all if you want more power turbos are better but the simplicity ofa super charger is better.. there are pros and cons to both..

also if he were to just throw a turbo on the way his truck is now it wouldnt provide that much gains due to restrictive heads and cam, and exhaust manufolds...that why i said to do the other mods first..

 

Yes, the exhaust driven blowers do take a bit more time to kick in than the belt driven ones. However, the blowers that I've seen in Mustangs seem to be of the turbine design although driven by belts.

Yes, 5 psi is about all you can safely run (for very long) in a stock engine in good condition. With a exhaust driven blower, you have to change the exhaust anyway, so that should not be an issue... With the belt driven blower, it would be smart to open the exhaust, but for 5 PSI it would not make a significant difference.

I don't know how much it would cost to put a turbo (exhaust driven) or a belt driven blower to the I6 engine. It will cost some $$, but I don't know how much. I guess the thing to do is just add up the cost of all the various options and see what makes most sense for the ultimate purpose.

I have done the exhaust/CAI/tune thing before to a number of different vehicles and although it's kind of fun and you get a placebo type of effect along with some nice engine sounds, the actual power increases have be very disappointing and extremely expensive in $$ per HP gain terms.

Like I said, I've done a header, exhaust/intake and tune modification and have seen around 10 hp on the dyno. The cost without labor was in the neighborhood of $2K+ that comes out to well over $200/hp

The blowers cost around $4K, installed and produced around 40~60 hp. That comes out to between $60~$100/hp.

Of course, your mileage might vary, etc. But dollar for dollar, forced induction beats the pants off the header/exhaust/intake/tune combination.

 

With a 95 302 , all you need is a good cam , heads and exhaust to get an extra 100 HP....Lew

 

You are absolutely right!

 

ok so cams, and headers, what about the air intake mod of moving from above the radiator to below it or behind the grill?

 

Well when you do cam , headers and heads , the stock air box system will not keep up , everone has there own idea how to improve the air flow , you need the biggest volume free flowing filter you can get , plus a bigger TB and MA meter to get the full power of the upgrades , thats what its about , more air in more air out.....

 

so would a K&N air filter help at all? or what type of air system should i get?

 

Cams & headers & intake will help a lot. *But* they need to be the right parts. Also I believe that the TB might need improvement. And don't forget the head. The right head with the proper valve grind will make a huge difference. Before You start anything, I'd suggest pricing all the *right* parts and labor. I am afraid you are in for a rude awakening.....

 

Jaime-I'm assuming you have the sucky stock 3.08 gears....If so, a simple gear swap will let you have a good boost in the Butt Dyno....Not adding hp/tq...Just merely relocating power where needed....Depending on where you go....Can go from a simple $100 rear gear swap, to $500....Depending on new/used, and where ya get them...

And as far as the cam goes, I'd prefer a 1k-4-5,000 rpm cam....Considering the 302 idles a tad higher than a 300...That's pretty much your idle to 85mph and will add some performance....Thats about a $250-ish swap, counting in for lifters....

The heads.....Hmmm...A simple DIY Port and polish would definantly help....But won't compare to some aftermaker style heads....

A cheap alternative toe the DIY P&P is a set of GT40 heads from an Explorer, or a set of E7 heads....AFR Heads, etc will run you $800-$2,000...Depending on brand, supplier, etc....

The factory intake is fine...No need to swap parts not needed when dealing in there....

And as stated before, a set of headers will serve you well; Just remember-

Shorties=Hp/Upper RPM use
Longtubes=Tq/Lower rpm use....And Pacesetter makes a nice set that a good bang for your buck....


Doing anymore than whats been described...You're looking at well over 3k in parts, plus labor....

 

There are some cheap ways to get more power for now , its a 95 so it has a decent roller cam , it has E 7 heads on it now , there not great but not to bad , like above gears are very important with the 302 , long tube headers with a free flowing exhaust , 1.7 ratio rockers , or you could find a cheap HO cam to go with the rockers for cheap , no need to replace the lifters with a roller cam , but your truck will have mass air so you can use any cam you wan't , bump the timing up to about 14 deg BTDC , this will make a big improvement over stock.....

 

whats BTDC? so that way i can have a mechanic i trust do this part, as i don't trust my self to do this with out knowing or having correct tools (or a shop) to do this in? as for the ignition system ups, will they help as i plan to get them anyways (new sppark plugs, wires, cap thing and starter thing i think)

 

Before Top Dead Center....

 

ok cool, thought so, will the ignition system ups i have planned to do help any or just hurt things?

 

They will help...Marginally....Ignition system upgrades, like everything else, has its limits as to what all it can do....